But you have yet to provide facts. Philips is producing LED bulbs for the Euro market. It is only a matter of time before DOT approval happens and LED technology replaces a halogen replacement.

 

You are wrong, you aim them down to bring the cut-off line down. Once again, please tell me why nobody flashes me with LED's? Oh, and I have done my own retrofit with all TRS parts (see signature). Couldnt stand the loss of light due to the abrupt cut-off line while driving rural roads. We are at a difference here and thats fine. It seems odd though that I have had halogens, a retrofit and led's and can speak from experience, but you just have your opinion.

 

I have run all three as well. Some people do have an issue with a projector cutoff. The lack of light above the cutoff really bothers them.

 

Yes, it really bothered me. I went back to Philips Crystal Vision bulbs after the retrofits were pulled. Then I started researching and tried a pair of LED's from 4x4truckleds, they had the brightness of HID and the throw and spread of halogen so it was a win win situation.

 

Let's do something a little more productive with everyone's time, here. If you'd like to have a thoughtful debate and cite your sources, I welcome it. Otherwise, stay on OP's topic. If both of those are too difficult, go elsewhere or... well, I'll handle you at that point.

 

Ok, I ended up going with the H13(9008)
HIKARI LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit - H13(9008) Hi/Lo,Top CREE (XHP50+XM-L2) 9600lm 6K Cool White,2 Yr Warranty (Eye of Megatron,Upgraded Version)

Away on business right now but they were delivered. I will insall them when I get home and report back with pictures, should be by some time this weekend.

 

Do let us know what you think! I've got these sitting in my amazon cart as the price is right, but it'd be nice to have a review from the bulbs in an F150.

 

They look like they have the low beam LED shield, which is correct. The LEDs should be at the 9 and 3 position and the shields should be facing up.


This may require you to break the base lose if they are not adjustable. Adhesive holds them in place if there isn't a set screw. Once you get them positioned correctly, then you will have to put new adhesive on to hold the base. They do not look adjustable in the pics.

 

These are adjustable and cost $20 less than Hikari. I have these on 3 vehicles, a couple for 6 months now, no issues at all:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BroView-V8-F..._nyYJQ&vxp=mtr

 

I do not think my lights create an obnoxious amount of glare.... but I was worried about this. Hence my research into what was the closest to stock lights, yet still LED. That's how I landed with the JDM Aster product.


To test that I really was not going to blind others I took my wife's car (Honda Fit, its basically a go-cart with airbags) and drove in front of my truck. The lights were bright in my mirrors when she followed me, as well as when I drove towards her. But neither time did I feel they were blinding me, disrupting my overall vision or aimed directly at my eyes.


Now the kid two doors down with his lowered Civic. His headlights blind the crap out of me in my truck, or when I am walking down the street with the dog. Nice kid, but he went cheap with a $50 set of LEDs and I have commented that he should remove them before he gets a ticket for it.


I will still freely admit that in my state, and all states that I know of, LEDs in the stock headlights are illegal. But I also firmly believe after having a high quality set of adjustable ones, that it can be done safely. Now as I do not have any type of light testing equipment to prove my results, that is simply one mans opinion on the internet.