Toddman38

iTrader: (5)

I used the same ground spot BlueBullet10! Wasnt fun, but conveinent...

Lethal Weapon

No problem Man- Glad I can help!


I never saw that ground behind there
I remember my hands were cold when I did my install & was getting excited to just get 'er all hooked up, so I just simply drilled a hole & tapped it...
So, anyone else, indeed, take your time and that IS a great spot for your ground, and will save you making another hole in your truck for it.

antighboatye

Okay, I've had some time to drive and listen to this setup and I think I'd like to tweak it a little. The truth is, it's just too loud and boomy for the music I listen to. Since there is no gain control on the amp, I have my bass EQ turned all the way down and it's still just not right. I lose all the mid-bass from the front doors, and the sub is still pounding in back.

I'm curious if anyone has run signal to the sub from the rear speakers instead. That way I could adjust the fader toward the front more and keep the fuller sound there, but lower the volume of the sub along with the rears since we hear less of those anyway. Has anyone tried this? Do we know if the wires for the rears run through that same harness? And if they do, will it provide an acceptable signal for the sub?

LOP

Per post #1, it is my understanding that the REAR wires are what you tap into. Am I misunderstanding your question?

Lethal Weapon

I'll have to double check the info in the 1st post. It is possible it IS the front speakers that the dub gets the signal. (I'm at work & rode the Harley today) but to easily confirm that,.... Simply turn the fader to the rear only & then the front only & it will quickly show what signal it gets its power from. And actually I believe it IS the front Speaker wires.
To help answer the question though... Whichever it is getting the signal from (front vs rear), I have been told that the signal is not sufficient to get it from "the other" speaker wires.
But good catch & apologize for the typo... But I do think it does tap into the front wires, not the rear wires.
But the color code is correct in the pics for reference.

antighboatye

To be honest, I didn't even notice that the instructions above said rear, but the colors shown are definitely the front signal wires. If I fade it to the back currently, the sub is muted.
I think I may just give it a shot and see how it goes. I can always return it to the previous configuration if I need to.

Lethal Weapon

I just home from work and turned on the radio and faded front to rear too...it definitely is the Front speaker wires that it is tapped into, so post #1 should indeed say "Front" speaker wires, not rear.
I can not edit that post now to change the words, as I guess they have a time frame of editing (oops!).
But the pics & color of wires are accurate (at least for my 2013 Lariat).
Let us know what result you get if you indeed try to tap into the rear speaker wires, but from what I understand, it won't work, so let us know if you indeed try it.

mlheck

iTrader: (1)

So I've ordered one of these kits and I am trying to understand a couple of things here. From what you are saying here, the sub is running off of a line level signal and not a LFE signal. So I'm guessing that the original Sony sub runs off of a LFE signal and that is why I can't tap into the original sub wiring for the audio signal?

Lethal Weapon

Sorry man, I don't know all the tech terms, other than the kicker sub works great!
But I think the terms you just said, sounds like what I've heard.
(I'm a Union Boilermaker & a welder by trade)

mlheck

iTrader: (1)

And I'm a 30 year union Steel Worker & axle builder by trade, not sure what this has to do with the discussion.