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Im not desperate, but guys i am desperate. Need help!!!
06-25-2019, 03:42 PM
#11
Senior Member
Ok, you had the transmission downshift? Any orange light and code with that? That doesn't have anything to do with engine rods, they were right about that. There is a warranty extension by Ford for many trucks for this issue. (you didn't give any info on yours, what is it?)
But if you have only 1/2 to 2/3 the oil you are supposed to have with no leaks, right after an oil change, I would want the shop responsible for the engine. To AHenry014: are you sure that light even comes on at 3qts down? I think it has to be even lower, which is stupid by design, and not helpful to we owners. I'm thinking of the 5.0, here, not sure which engine we are discussing. And the gauge in the cluster is not a gauge, it is an idiot light.
You do need to be more aware of your oil than you described, camron. On this or any other future vehicle.
But if you have only 1/2 to 2/3 the oil you are supposed to have with no leaks, right after an oil change, I would want the shop responsible for the engine. To AHenry014: are you sure that light even comes on at 3qts down? I think it has to be even lower, which is stupid by design, and not helpful to we owners. I'm thinking of the 5.0, here, not sure which engine we are discussing. And the gauge in the cluster is not a gauge, it is an idiot light.
You do need to be more aware of your oil than you described, camron. On this or any other future vehicle.
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hugh_hef150 (06-27-2019)
06-25-2019, 03:45 PM
#12
Senior Member
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diegoo.jayjay (06-25-2019)
06-25-2019, 04:08 PM
#13
Senior Member
If you were 3 qts low the engine either burned 3 qts really fast, or it was not completely filled at the last oil change. Probably the latter. But it is YOUR responsibility to check the oil before you leave after an oil change. I don't trust many to do the job right and usually do it myself. If not I double check.
With anything close to decent maintenance you should get 250,000 miles out of an engine. I'd find a highly recommended local independent mechanic and get his advice then decide. You might find a good used engine in a scrapyard that could be dropped in at a reasonable cost.
With anything close to decent maintenance you should get 250,000 miles out of an engine. I'd find a highly recommended local independent mechanic and get his advice then decide. You might find a good used engine in a scrapyard that could be dropped in at a reasonable cost.
06-25-2019, 04:26 PM
#14
The rod did not come out of the block, it just has real bad rod knock. Still runs (Obviously have not been driving it) - also there was a recall on these trucks shifting into 1st gear at any speed from Ford. I brought it up to service and they said that was impossible to have caused this. About a week before this happened the truck did do this while I was going about 70. Skipped rear wheels on the highway and was scary, but nothing seemed to have happened after... thoughts?
This. When your truck dropped into first and locked up the wheels at 70mph, that usually results in the engine revving up and possibly passed its redline. That could have caused rod damage. What else do you remember about the sudden highway lockup?
06-25-2019, 04:34 PM
#15
Texas A&M Aggie
I'd try to hold the oil change shop responsible, but I'm not sure you'll get anywhere. Is there any oil in the exhaust? How many miles between the oil change and failure?
As far as sell or rebuild, I'd rebuild it. You'll take a huge hit selling it with a bent/broken rod.
As far as sell or rebuild, I'd rebuild it. You'll take a huge hit selling it with a bent/broken rod.
06-25-2019, 05:01 PM
#16
Senior Member
3) anyone know of a very reliable, trusted and accountable shop in phoenix, az area? If i rebuild this i want to make sure it is being done by a wizard and not some corner cutter. I do not know many shops in town and usually, do maintainance through ford but think this is a job for a true engine shop. Any recommendations are appreciated!
Not sure which side of the valley you live on, but if it is the East side, I know of 2 good ones. Airpark Automotive Clinic in North Scottsdale and Smart Automotive on the south side of Scottsdale.
Not sure which side of the valley you live on, but if it is the East side, I know of 2 good ones. Airpark Automotive Clinic in North Scottsdale and Smart Automotive on the south side of Scottsdale.
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hugh_hef150 (06-27-2019)
06-25-2019, 11:00 PM
#17
Senior Member
Sucks but good luck. I had a shop fix a rear engine seal, didn't torque the fly wheel and it came off 1000k miles later. $3k in repair and told me to pound sand.
06-26-2019, 01:27 PM
#18
Senior Member
Originally Posted by AHenry014
Given a month between the oil change and the failure, i am not sure you have a leg to stand on. This is not what you want to hear, but from the shops point of view, there was too much time between the change and the failure, so there is no way to prove how it happened. You leave the shop and it throws a rod in the parking lot on the way out, sure, maybe youve got something. If the oil was that low and was like that for a whole month, there should have been indications such as a low oil pressure warning (very noticeable) or the oil pressure gauge reading low (less noticeable). That is the point of the gauge and the warning light/message, to save the engine when it is run out of oil. If you never saw these, then the engine was telling you it was getting the minimum required oil pressure. Even a small starvation would trigger the message.
Also, it is hard to quantify oil level if there is a hole in the side of the block where it could have exited.
Also, it is hard to quantify oil level if there is a hole in the side of the block where it could have exited.
06-26-2019, 02:37 PM
#19
Have another shop look at it. If the engine is toast, throw in a salvage yard take out and roll. Sucks, but in the grand scheme, $4K for a used engine swap is a drop int he bucket when it comes to total overall vehicle costs during your lifetime.
The truck is still worth quite a bit assuming it's a desirable trim/cab/bed configuration in good shape, even at 130K miles. You are in AZ, so it probably has zero rust. I'd fix it. Nobody will give you **** for it with a blown engine. OTOH, if it's a 2WD harvest gold supercab with a ragged out interior- I would not put a dime into it unless you want to drive it into the dirt.
The truck is still worth quite a bit assuming it's a desirable trim/cab/bed configuration in good shape, even at 130K miles. You are in AZ, so it probably has zero rust. I'd fix it. Nobody will give you **** for it with a blown engine. OTOH, if it's a 2WD harvest gold supercab with a ragged out interior- I would not put a dime into it unless you want to drive it into the dirt.
