I feel ripped off... '13 S-Crew air conditioning Ford refuses to fix.
#1
Rode hard, put away wet.
Thread Starter
I feel ripped off... '13 S-Crew air conditioning Ford refuses to fix.
I am going to file a lawsuit against Ford.
2 months ago I bought a new 2013 F150 SuperCrew. It’s white with EcoBoost and fully loaded. Fifty thousand dollars worth.
Within days I noticed the air conditioning was ridiculously weak.
This is a major problem as I live in So. Ca. At 105 degrees outside, after 20 minutes of driving on Max A/C, it’s 97 degrees in the cab.
Then I came here and found out about all the same A/C problems so many others have.
I have taken it in for repair five times (to 4 different dealers) in the last month. And every time they idle my truck in the shade for 40 minutes to an hour and then put a thermometer down inside the A/C duct, and tell me it’s ‘Good enough’. “Yep! 46 degrees, (in the duct, after a half-hour idling in the shade) that’s to spec!” Five times I’ve been made to feel unreasonable for expecting my new $50k truck to be cooler than 95 degrees inside the cab. I can’t tell you how frustrating this is.
And they always tell me I’m the only one who’s ever complained.
Ford corporate “Service” has sandbagged me at every turn as well. This is especially true of the corporate regional service manager, Brian. His strategy appears to be: ‘Stall until Summer ends, then he’ll go away’.
In my unfortunately experienced opinion that, at the corporate level, Ford Service is nothing more than a shifty marketing hack whose job is to convince you that everything’s just fine.
He also states he’s unaware of any air conditioning complaints or flaw in the 2011 – present Screws. Uhh huh.
It should be noted that other than the terrible A/C, I am very happy with the truck. The only problem is Ford’s dishonest business and service practices. Still, I’d like to keep it if it would just cool down in less that a freakin’ hour. I’ve put $600 worth of very high-end new tint (3M Crystal) on it including the windshield and sunroof. (The stuff is miraculous, by the way.)
What really offends me most is the way Ford has treated me, the way they have lied and cheated:
Whataya mean sir? There’re no other complaints about the A/C.
Why, I’ve never heard of any problems with late model screw A/C.
Look! See? It’s working fine.. just looky our thermometer stuffed down there in the duct!
I am going to see an attorney I spoke to on the phone about suing Ford. Evidently there is something in the law about product Fitness and Merchantability.
I've never sued anybody in my life... but I hate liars. So I'm real motivated. If the lawyer wont file class action, then I expect to file in small claims court. The limit is $10,000 and it costs almost nothing to file. Neither side is allowed a lawyer. I wonder how a hundred or so small claims suits from people all over the country would make 'em react.
I will update this thread periodically.
If you are considering a large cab pickup and air conditioning is important to you, I urge you to test this truck on a 95+ degree day.
Because I promise if you’re unhappy with the 40 minutes it takes the cab to cool off after you get it home… Ford’s answer will be ‘Screw you’.
2 months ago I bought a new 2013 F150 SuperCrew. It’s white with EcoBoost and fully loaded. Fifty thousand dollars worth.
Within days I noticed the air conditioning was ridiculously weak.
This is a major problem as I live in So. Ca. At 105 degrees outside, after 20 minutes of driving on Max A/C, it’s 97 degrees in the cab.
Then I came here and found out about all the same A/C problems so many others have.
I have taken it in for repair five times (to 4 different dealers) in the last month. And every time they idle my truck in the shade for 40 minutes to an hour and then put a thermometer down inside the A/C duct, and tell me it’s ‘Good enough’. “Yep! 46 degrees, (in the duct, after a half-hour idling in the shade) that’s to spec!” Five times I’ve been made to feel unreasonable for expecting my new $50k truck to be cooler than 95 degrees inside the cab. I can’t tell you how frustrating this is.
And they always tell me I’m the only one who’s ever complained.
Ford corporate “Service” has sandbagged me at every turn as well. This is especially true of the corporate regional service manager, Brian. His strategy appears to be: ‘Stall until Summer ends, then he’ll go away’.
In my unfortunately experienced opinion that, at the corporate level, Ford Service is nothing more than a shifty marketing hack whose job is to convince you that everything’s just fine.
He also states he’s unaware of any air conditioning complaints or flaw in the 2011 – present Screws. Uhh huh.
It should be noted that other than the terrible A/C, I am very happy with the truck. The only problem is Ford’s dishonest business and service practices. Still, I’d like to keep it if it would just cool down in less that a freakin’ hour. I’ve put $600 worth of very high-end new tint (3M Crystal) on it including the windshield and sunroof. (The stuff is miraculous, by the way.)
What really offends me most is the way Ford has treated me, the way they have lied and cheated:
Whataya mean sir? There’re no other complaints about the A/C.
Why, I’ve never heard of any problems with late model screw A/C.
Look! See? It’s working fine.. just looky our thermometer stuffed down there in the duct!
I am going to see an attorney I spoke to on the phone about suing Ford. Evidently there is something in the law about product Fitness and Merchantability.
I've never sued anybody in my life... but I hate liars. So I'm real motivated. If the lawyer wont file class action, then I expect to file in small claims court. The limit is $10,000 and it costs almost nothing to file. Neither side is allowed a lawyer. I wonder how a hundred or so small claims suits from people all over the country would make 'em react.
I will update this thread periodically.
If you are considering a large cab pickup and air conditioning is important to you, I urge you to test this truck on a 95+ degree day.
Because I promise if you’re unhappy with the 40 minutes it takes the cab to cool off after you get it home… Ford’s answer will be ‘Screw you’.
#2
Senior Member
I am sorry to read your frustration and concern! I think before you go way of wasting money on legal suits I might offer a couple of things... 1. go check out the chevy,, and rams.... see how they work on a 120 degree day.... then if they are great,,, go see if any of the dealers you have gone to have one on the lot!! If so ask them to test drive it and bring it back and show them !!! Hey Ford,, this one is 70 degrees and mine is 95,,, so now tell me what you were saying?? The other option is the lemon law,,, since you have had it repaired 4 times that will probably be enough. Just check the internet for lemon law in your state! They will tell you what to do first before getting a lawyer involved! Good Luck!
#3
Senior Member
There is a little fix that will bring it down a bit using insulation. I know it's not what you want but it may help.
My 2010 has no problems and I feel for the newer ones with this issue.
My 2010 has no problems and I feel for the newer ones with this issue.
#4
USN Retired 1992-2012
I am sorry to read your frustration and concern! I think before you go way of wasting money on legal suits I might offer a couple of things... 1. go check out the chevy,, and rams.... see how they work on a 120 degree day.... then if they are great,,, go see if any of the dealers you have gone to have one on the lot!! If so ask them to test drive it and bring it back and show them !!! Hey Ford,, this one is 70 degrees and mine is 95,,, so now tell me what you were saying?? The other option is the lemon law,,, since you have had it repaired 4 times that will probably be enough. Just check the internet for lemon law in your state! They will tell you what to do first before getting a lawyer involved! Good Luck!
On a side note, on extremely hot days, I first roll down all my windows for about 5 to 10 minutes to evacuate the hot air, turn on recirculation, my vents are never opened more than half way and blower set to medium. Air flowing slower over the evaporator on hot days equal cooler air. As stated earlier, you can wrap the low side with insulation to possible cool better as well. If I were you, I'd request seeing the gages hooked up to see what the pressures are running. I am sure it has a txv (thermal expansion valve) in the system as well, which could be the problem. The txv meters the refrigerant flow throw the evaporator depending on the outlet temperture. If the txv for some reason lost the refrigerant in the capillary tube, it won't allow a sufficient amount of refrigerant flow throw the system. Best of luck on getting your problems repaired.
Richard
Last edited by mrgooden; 09-20-2013 at 10:21 PM.
#5
Senior Member
#6
One Bad MoFoMoCo Owner
We had this thread on here before. I live in San Antonio, TX. It's over 100 degrees alot here. My AC cools my truck just fine, and I park in the sun. The volume of space is huge, so it will take a while to cool, but if your AC is blowing that cold, at 46°, it will cool your truck. That's really cold for the heat you're in.
Here are some strategies to help you out, and a tip to help with the efficiency of your AC.
1. First, start by opening all your windows after starting your truck. When it's 100° outside, it's over 180° in your truck. Open all the windows, and turn your AC to max. Give your AC a couple minutes to blow all the hot air out. This way you are starting with 100° air to cool down versus 180° air. This makes a huge difference. If you hope in your truck, and just start driving, then your lucky to get the temperature down to 95° in 40 minutes, as your truck had dropped in temperature by 85° from where it was. If you start by blowing out the hot air first, you'd likely be freezing.
2. Use a windshield screen to reflect heat out when parked. Your interior is absorbing radiant heat which takes longer to cool off, and will continue to radiate heat at you while you're trying to cool your truck. Leave your windows cracked to prevent the heat from building up as well.
3. Several guys have wrapped the large AC tube with insulation tape, etc, and have lowered the temp their AC blows a few degrees. Wrapping the high side tube will help your AC run more efficient.
4. Make sure your AC is set to MAX, and recirculate. This way you are running progressively cooler air through the system, allowing it to get colder, faster.
All that said, you are blowing 45° air into a 100° space. A very large space. It's going to take a few minutes. Within 5 minutes, on the hottest days here, reading 115° on the temperature gauge on the dash, and my truck is cool enough that I'm turning the AC from 4, to 3, and in a few more minutes, down to 2.
Hope that helps.
Here are some strategies to help you out, and a tip to help with the efficiency of your AC.
1. First, start by opening all your windows after starting your truck. When it's 100° outside, it's over 180° in your truck. Open all the windows, and turn your AC to max. Give your AC a couple minutes to blow all the hot air out. This way you are starting with 100° air to cool down versus 180° air. This makes a huge difference. If you hope in your truck, and just start driving, then your lucky to get the temperature down to 95° in 40 minutes, as your truck had dropped in temperature by 85° from where it was. If you start by blowing out the hot air first, you'd likely be freezing.
2. Use a windshield screen to reflect heat out when parked. Your interior is absorbing radiant heat which takes longer to cool off, and will continue to radiate heat at you while you're trying to cool your truck. Leave your windows cracked to prevent the heat from building up as well.
3. Several guys have wrapped the large AC tube with insulation tape, etc, and have lowered the temp their AC blows a few degrees. Wrapping the high side tube will help your AC run more efficient.
4. Make sure your AC is set to MAX, and recirculate. This way you are running progressively cooler air through the system, allowing it to get colder, faster.
All that said, you are blowing 45° air into a 100° space. A very large space. It's going to take a few minutes. Within 5 minutes, on the hottest days here, reading 115° on the temperature gauge on the dash, and my truck is cool enough that I'm turning the AC from 4, to 3, and in a few more minutes, down to 2.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by sullyman; 09-20-2013 at 10:17 PM.
#7
Senior Member
and
go to autozobie or oreallieys
get your self a good set of a/c gauges
read the book
and see what your readings should be
suction at around 37 to 45 psi is good
and high pressure will scare you, but its dependent on outside temps and the low side suction pressure....but 230 to 375 or above on the high side is not uncommon
if after reading the book and checking your pressures, then take your readings to ford and ask them to replicate it
doing a run in the shade is cheating in my book
not direct sun....either
but a place near the ambient temps is best, out of direct sun
i always on all my rides maximize a/c cooling with insulation and having the pressures right on the dime
i pull 37F out of my dash air on my motorhome
and pulled 39 on the 2010 f150
haven't checked the 2013 yet
as stated above, its a BIG area to cool down after its been sitting in the sun
check your cabin temps before you switch on the a/c// i bet its freaking scary hot
rule of thumb used to be with r12 was 70 or so degrees below ambient is a good point.
i have owned many many new fords and chevys they all leave the line with just the minimum charge....they should be topped off prior to sale but many are not
hope it helps
go to autozobie or oreallieys
get your self a good set of a/c gauges
read the book
and see what your readings should be
suction at around 37 to 45 psi is good
and high pressure will scare you, but its dependent on outside temps and the low side suction pressure....but 230 to 375 or above on the high side is not uncommon
if after reading the book and checking your pressures, then take your readings to ford and ask them to replicate it
doing a run in the shade is cheating in my book
not direct sun....either
but a place near the ambient temps is best, out of direct sun
i always on all my rides maximize a/c cooling with insulation and having the pressures right on the dime
i pull 37F out of my dash air on my motorhome
and pulled 39 on the 2010 f150
haven't checked the 2013 yet
as stated above, its a BIG area to cool down after its been sitting in the sun
check your cabin temps before you switch on the a/c// i bet its freaking scary hot
rule of thumb used to be with r12 was 70 or so degrees below ambient is a good point.
i have owned many many new fords and chevys they all leave the line with just the minimum charge....they should be topped off prior to sale but many are not
hope it helps
Last edited by powerboatr; 09-20-2013 at 10:56 PM.
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gregsf150stx (09-21-2013)
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#8
Senior Member
While all the tips are probably most-certainly appreciated, that's kinda not the point. I park in 105* heat, 90-100% humidity and ZERO shade everyday.. I don't roll down my windows, walk to my truck to start it 5 minutes before-hand, drop $600 on tint, use a windshield-sun-blocker, or any of that.. because my AC works properly. I shouldn't HAVE to do all of that and don't WANT to do all that.. I wouldn't spend $1 on something if I knew it didn't work or only partially worked, and ESPECIALLY $20-50K.. Those tips certainly do help, and I use most of them, but I see his frustration and man, I'd be HOT if it happened to me.. (No pun...) - What have some of the others done? I've left my truck in numerous parking lots in the 100-120* heat FOR DAYS, even over a week once or twice, and every single time it has been down to 60* in a few minutes.. What I'm getting at is, NOBODY should have to do 30 extra things to get the AC to work properly..Sorry to hear that OP...
What was the end result for some of the other guys on the other thread?
What was the end result for some of the other guys on the other thread?
The following 3 users liked this post by RowdyAggie:
#10
USN Retired 1992-2012
and
go to autozobie or oreallieys
get your self a good set of a/c gauges
read the book
and see what your readings should be
suction at around 37 to 45 psi is good
and high pressure will scare you, but its dependent on outside temps and the low side suction pressure....but 230 or above on the high side is not uncommon
if after reading the book and checking your pressures, then take your readings to ford and ask them to replicate it
doing a run in the shade is cheating in my book
not direct sun....either
but a place near the ambient temps is best, out of direct sun
i always on all my rides maximize a/c cooling with insulation and having the pressures right on the dime
i pull 37F out of my dash air on my motorhome
and pulled 39 on the 2010 f150
haven't checked the 2013 yet
as stated above, its a BIG area to cool down after its been sitting in the sun
check your cabin temps before you switch on the a/c// i bet its freaking scary hot
rule of thumb used to be with r12 was 70 or so degrees below ambient is a good point.
i have owned many many new fords and chevys they all leave the line with just the minimum charge....they should be topped off prior to sale but many are not
hope it helps
go to autozobie or oreallieys
get your self a good set of a/c gauges
read the book
and see what your readings should be
suction at around 37 to 45 psi is good
and high pressure will scare you, but its dependent on outside temps and the low side suction pressure....but 230 or above on the high side is not uncommon
if after reading the book and checking your pressures, then take your readings to ford and ask them to replicate it
doing a run in the shade is cheating in my book
not direct sun....either
but a place near the ambient temps is best, out of direct sun
i always on all my rides maximize a/c cooling with insulation and having the pressures right on the dime
i pull 37F out of my dash air on my motorhome
and pulled 39 on the 2010 f150
haven't checked the 2013 yet
as stated above, its a BIG area to cool down after its been sitting in the sun
check your cabin temps before you switch on the a/c// i bet its freaking scary hot
rule of thumb used to be with r12 was 70 or so degrees below ambient is a good point.
i have owned many many new fords and chevys they all leave the line with just the minimum charge....they should be topped off prior to sale but many are not
hope it helps
If you do buy gages. NEVER EVER open the high side valve (Red) when you service the AC. The can in your hand will blow like a grenade. Just saying.
Richard
Last edited by mrgooden; 09-20-2013 at 10:50 PM.
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powerboatr (09-20-2013)