How do I lower the TPMS setting?
Its the very first thing it asks for when changing/adjusting tunes. I can change front and rear pressures. I'm not sure why mine would be any different. I know there are a few other members that have the same option. I don't if it makes a difference where you buy the device from or not. I bought device from stage3 with the 5star tunes. I wouldn't think that would make a difference though?
My advice would be buy you a football mouth guard to wear while you wear these tires out. Then replace with standard load rated tire that calls for 35 psi.
Heck, if you have decent tread left on your e-rated tires you may could even sell them on Craigslist and offset the cost of some new standard tires.
Good luck and stay away from any washboard roads if you like all your bolts to stay in place
a plug has it's place on slow moving vehicles. and off road.
but any tire used on a public road/highway should actually be removed from the rim and inspected after a flat.
After working in a tire shop for over 10 years, I had seen a fair share of tires that were blown out shortly after it had been plugged, and every one of thoes blowout was caused by runflat, where you drive for a wile at very low air pressure, heating up the tire and destroying the inner liner.
not saying every plugged tire will do this. it's just you have no way of knowing what shape the inside of the tire is, unless you actually catch the leak while you still have lots of air, or if the vehicle hasn't moved for a few hours while the tire leaked down.
just think of it this way.... is your families lives worth the risk if by chance that tire is runflat and blows on the highway at 60+ mph?
but any tire used on a public road/highway should actually be removed from the rim and inspected after a flat.
After working in a tire shop for over 10 years, I had seen a fair share of tires that were blown out shortly after it had been plugged, and every one of thoes blowout was caused by runflat, where you drive for a wile at very low air pressure, heating up the tire and destroying the inner liner.
not saying every plugged tire will do this. it's just you have no way of knowing what shape the inside of the tire is, unless you actually catch the leak while you still have lots of air, or if the vehicle hasn't moved for a few hours while the tire leaked down.
just think of it this way.... is your families lives worth the risk if by chance that tire is runflat and blows on the highway at 60+ mph?
You have to be right. E-rated tires would call for that much pressure. He can certainly adjust the factory TPMS threshold down with a tuner, I can vouch for that with my X3. But I'm not certain how those tires would wear if grossly under-inflated. Might cause them to wear uneven and might even by sketchy as far as handling. I'm no tire expert but I assume running E-rated at 35-40 will break down the metal belts in the sidewall much quicker and be dangerous.
Good luck and stay away from any washboard roads if you like all your bolts to stay in place
Good luck and stay away from any washboard roads if you like all your bolts to stay in place

My tires are getting kinda long in the tooth. They aren't worn out by any means but the truck has 94000 kilometers on it right now. Perhaps it would be best to replace the stock rims with some factory knock offs and get a lower rated tire.
They are indeed E rated tires but I cannot recall if my truck has 7 lug wheels. I did lower the pressures down to 35 psi all the way around and didn't notice any adverse handling affects. I just got sick of dealing with the light on the dash and having to reset the computer each time I started my truck.
My tires are getting kinda long in the tooth. They aren't worn out by any means but the truck has 94000 kilometers on it right now. Perhaps it would be best to replace the stock rims with some factory knock offs and get a lower rated tire.
My tires are getting kinda long in the tooth. They aren't worn out by any means but the truck has 94000 kilometers on it right now. Perhaps it would be best to replace the stock rims with some factory knock offs and get a lower rated tire.
Also its not necessary to change wheels to get new tires that are D rated or even P rated. The wheels whether 6 or 7 lug do not dictate the tire you can mount on there at least in regards to load rating. Unless you want to change your wheels for aesthetic reasons I would just re-shoe your current wheels and program the BCM with a tuner to lower your TPMS warning down to 30 psi and run the new tires at 35.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Danny
a plug has it's place on slow moving vehicles. and off road. but any tire used on a public road/highway should actually be removed from the rim and inspected after a flat. After working in a tire shop for over 10 years, I had seen a fair share of tires that were blown out shortly after it had been plugged, and every one of thoes blowout was caused by runflat, where you drive for a wile at very low air pressure, heating up the tire and destroying the inner liner. not saying every plugged tire will do this. it's just you have no way of knowing what shape the inside of the tire is, unless you actually catch the leak while you still have lots of air, or if the vehicle hasn't moved for a few hours while the tire leaked down. just think of it this way.... is your families lives worth the risk if by chance that tire is runflat and blows on the highway at 60+ mph?
I've been told by many times that a hole was "too close to the sidewall to fix" and I would have to by a new tire, screw that! I can't see how a piece of vulcanized rubber stuffed into a tiny hole will create a huge blow out.







