BadlilF150

Truck had a slight rough idle and 122k on original plugs. I did a plug change to the SP-534 and gapped about .030-.031. The plugs I removed were in the .50s! I am wondering now if the piece I used to gap is correct. I used small amount of anti-seeze but no where near the electrode part as I know that can cause issues. Used a small amount of di-electric grease inside the boot and wiped off them off. What I found is when the truck warms up its buttery smooth idle. First start after plugs it took 2 min and it was smooth. Drove all day. Started i this morning and it was real rough. Took over 10 min for it to go away and what I noticed is it took forever for the truck to warm up. Stayed on the cold side and didn't move off it for a good 10+ min.. when it got into normal operating temp range issue gone.. truck idled so smooth I could not even tell it was running!.. I just bought this truck and wife is on me about the issues... I appreciate any and all Help.. I am going to do an computer reset when I get home tonight. I assume this needs to be done when the truck is 100% cold? I have also heard there is a flash update for the computer as well?

digitaltrucker

Year model and engine will probably help us help you.

BadlilF150

So Sorry.. 2011 Ford Ecoboost FX2 4door.

I did clean the motor during the spark plug change which had me worried i got something wet I should not have. Also the truck does have an airaid cold air intake on it. No tune and original owner ran it on 87 its whole life. I am starting to wonder if I knocked off a vacuum line during plug swap. It's a super rough idle. Watching it take forever to warm up was kinda odd as well. This is all real stressful since it took a week to convince the wife we needed this truck just to end up having issues to fix including the slip yoke bump..

digitaltrucker

Dont worry about the slip yoke, its just a nuisance and can be fixed.

BadlilF150

Thank you. Wife stressing thinking trans is going out lol. We aren't made out of money and this truck was smoking good deal because I got it off a friend. I will attempt that fix tonight on the slip yoke. The next thing to resolve is this horrible idle. So strange how after 10 min of driving its so smooth I have to look at the tach to see if its even running... its literally that smooth. Been around cars my whole life and drag raced for 20 years. When I mean Smooth I mean its extremely smooth when warmed up. Like I said tho.. I am starting to question my spark plug gauge for gapping. The factory were all over .050.. if its off then its possible it could be gapped super low. its a tiny gap i know that much.

digitaltrucker

Take a look at this post


https://www.f150forum.com/f38/anyone...ke-fix-386710/


I would not recommend the top video, but look towards the end posts for links.


Big older post here:


https://www.f150forum.com/f38/drives...es-fix-153099/

mattark17

When I did my plug change I damaged the electrode on the new plug. I guess I hit it on the way into the cylinder. I re-gapped the plug and all was good. Check each one and make sure you did not do they same.


Hope it helps.

msgross

have you taken it to autozone to see if it threw a code?

BadlilF150

no check engine lights.. I can pull codes with my SCT tuner also.

BadlilF150

Yeah, most of those videos are once piece shafts. I have yet to find a video that shows them removing the boot and performing the steps.. The one guy who I THINK was going to show us had camera issues and it had stopped recording on him. My ford kit only came with ONE of hte clamps needed for hte boot.. I assume I only need to remove one side. I did find hte Ford TSB that walks you through fixing the issue.. although not a video I think I can figure it out.. I will attempt tonight.. Wish me luck!