2010 F150 Supercab 2wd 4.6L 203,000 miles

About a month ago I suffered a fuel pump shut down while pulling out from an intersection. Very hot day, mid 90s w high humidity. Lucky for me traffic was light and I had a wide shoulder to coast over to and get out of the way. The truck would not start for about an hour or so, so I had it towed to my local mechanic and it restarted for him w no problems. I get home Google research problem and discover something I should have been aware of and been proactive about. I picked up the $28 Fuse 27 Relocator OEM kit at nearest Ford since I wanted to fix that day, and did the fuse relocation TSB myself. I hadn't had any more trouble until yesterday. Leaving work sitting in slow-moving traffic and truck dies again! I push the truck out of the roadway and go directly to my new fuse 70 (20a blue fuse). it looks good, I pull it and reseat, then turn the ignition over and starts right up.

Has anyone performed the fuse 27 relocation to 70 and still had fuel pump issues? (assuming it would still be fuel pump issue). I saw on YouTube videos about the fuel pump controller having corrosion problems, but here in the Charlotte NC area we don't have much salt/slag/rust issues, and when I looked for it like the videos all show, my truck has a much smaller box that is clean and off of the frame crossbar. Maybe I'm not looking at the correct part/place.

I bought another fuse as a very basic backup but worried I have not figured out what the real underlying problem is.

Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot next? It has been a fantastic truck with *knocks on wood* very little mechanical issues.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but do you still have a fuse in slot 27. I know when I did my relocation, there was a question about which wire.

i got to thinking that if I used the wrong wire, I would be relocating something else. And the f27 problem would remain.

to test, make sure you don't have a fuse in 27 and see if it will start.

 

no, i did the complete TSB of disconnecting 27, clipped wire, no fuse in slot 27, and relocated new connection to slot 70 with the blue square fuse.

 

The module used to be more metal, hence rust issues. More recently it is more plastic and I think fewer problems. But, not zero problems, both controller and pump are still a little too common failure points. My question is, is your fuse 27 slot damaged? If it isn't, that was probably not the source of your first shut down.

 

Thanks Spiky, that's what I am thinking back on too. my fuse and slot did not have obvious overheating signs, but I read so much about how it was a likely problem, I wanted to be proactive.

Would a fuel pump controller replacement be a worthwhile effort, it seems easy to access, and the cost isn't too bad vs being stranded again. online and major auto parts chains have them from $90 - $120, need to check dealership OEM pricing.

 

I would replace the fuel pump controller like you mentioned.