2010 F150 XLT 4x4 5.4l Super Crew

So someone backed into my front bumper while i was in the hospital. Truck got towed to a repair shop, and they disassembled my front bumper to see if there was any structural/frame damage . (really?)
At the end the of the day, my insurance company declined my claim, and i have no idea of who ran into me so i could go after them for personally for damages.

The repair shop said they would charge me to put the bumper and front headlights all back together as the low cost of $500. I gave them a middle finger salute, had them put my chrome bumper and headlights in
the back of the truck and i drove it home without the bumper. (5 miles)

I can see how the bumper re-attaches to the frame with the four bolts/nuts, but there is an air-dam like piece and some other nuts/bolts they put in a baggie that i'm not exactly sure how or where they go back on.

Can anyone point me to a front bumper diagram for a 2010 F150 that i can use to see where and how all these parts go back together ? I'm assuming it will show the wiring diagram for the the front headlights and the
two round driving lights in the chrome bumper.

Also, i'm looking to buy the left rear window glass (half door / suicide door) for the same truck and having a heck of a time finding one at a wrecker here in Ontario, Canada. It's the privacy tint version. Anyone know
where i might find one or if anyone has one for sale ? Else I'll just have to buy one from the dealer. boo.

Thanks folks !

 

Did your insurance company give a reason for denying the claim? Most of these companies just plain suck and are willing to breach contract and go back on their own word if it saves them a dollar, don't be surprised if you have to call them multiple times and complain a lot before they cover anything. Nationwide refused to replace certain parts on my wife's car, breaching the contract I had with them that specified that "all damaged parts would be replaced with new OEM parts", their argument was that the damage wasn't that bad so they'd just fix it with bondo and paint. In the end I got them to pay to replace everything because they were wrong and knew I was angry enough to sue them for breaching contract, but it took about a month filled with phone calls and emails.

 

Dont get me started.. my insurance company was Aviva, and i had full liability and collision, but when i went into the hospital they said i didnt tell them the truck was going to be parked in a public lot for a possible
extended period of time, and i couldnt tell them exactly when the damage occurred and had no police report. I asked to check the security cameras but because i couldnt give a date they said they couldnt go through
all the video saved.

The bigger 'scam' was the quote they/I got from the repair shop before they declined it. According to the repair shop, it was a $5600 repair cost. It needed a new bumper, fog lights, two front quarter panels and
headlights. When i finally went to see it, the bumper had a small dent in the plastic part and some scratches (buffed out with rubbing compound), and the quarter panels had indentations that I pulled out by hand
where the headlights normallyare, The one headlight plastic housing had a crack in it, that i sealed with marine sealant. The quarter panels had slight scratch points that just needed touch up paint.

Bottom line their $5600 estimate was corrected for less than $15 (marine sealant and a can of touch up paint) And i have to put the bumper and headlights back together.


So thanks for the diagrams . can you provide the URL for those in case i need some others ?

 

Wow I've heard a lot of stupid, ridiculous reasons for claims being denied, but not telling them that the truck would be parked in a public parking lot is just plain absurd. Reminds me of when the local cops starting towing cars that were parked on the street for too long because they must have been abandoned, turns out some people park on the street in the same spot in front of their house everyday and wound up having their cars towed without warning. I guess they should have preemptively told the cops they don't have a driveway and park in the street everyday.

The body shop pricing likely was a scam, but not one targeting you specifically, insurance companies like to insist on only paying $40-50/hr in my area where labor rates are actually $100-150/hr so to fix things properly and keep the lights on you need to find a way to get them to pay for twice the hours you actually need. This means every little scuff that only needs to be buffed out gets written for a re-paint with blends on the adjacent panels. They also like to provide used parts for repairs and not pay for new ones, had your insurance actually approved the claim they likely would have knocked the $5600 estimate down to $2000.

Unfortunately the diagrams came from a professional database tied to my work PC so I can't provide you with a URL, but if you need anything else I'd be more than happy to try to find it for you.

 

Any chance I can get a diagram to help with install of left rear passenger glass (half door/suicide door) for same 2010 f150. ??

 

Sorry about the delay, I kept forgetting to grab this while I was at work.


Removal and Installation (door trim panel)

1. Remove the inside door handle cover.

1. Remove the 2 inside door handle bolts.

1. Pull out the inside door handle and position the handle aside.

1. If equipped, remove the window control switch. For additional information, refer to Section 501-11.

1. Remove the rear window rear garnish moulding.
   • Pull outward to release the garnish moulding clips from the door.

1. Remove the safety belt D-ring.
   • Remove the safety belt D-ring cover.
   • Remove the safety belt D-ring bolt.
     • To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).

1. Remove the rear door front garnish moulding.
   • Pull outward to release the garnish moulding clips from the door.

1. Remove the rear door trim panel screw covers.

1. Remove the 5 rear door trim panel screws.

1. NOTICE: Do not pull directly outward on the rear door trim panel, as damage may occur.
   Remove the rear door trim panel.
   • Lift upward and remove the rear door trim panel.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure

Removal and Installation (window glass)

1. Remove the window control switch. For additional information, refer to Window Control Switch - Rearin this section.

1. Remove the rear door trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05.

1. Remove the rear door mounted speaker. For additional information, Refer to the appropriate section in Group 415 for the procedure.

1. Remove the rear door interior moulding.

1. Position aside the rear door watershield.

1. Temporarily install the window control switch to raise or lower the window as necessary to access the glass-to-regulator assembly bolts.

1. Remove the C-pillar below belt bracket bolt and bracket.
   • Slide the bracket down to disengage from the U-channel in the door.
   • To install, tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).

1. Remove the B-pillar below belt bracket bolt and bracket.
   • To install, tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).

1. Loosen the rear door window glass-to-regulator assembly bolts.
   • To install, tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).

1. Tape the window in position, then lower the rear door window regulator to the full downward position.

1. Remove the rear door window glass.
   • Pull the rear door window glass out through the top inboard side of the door.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.