CeeJay

Disclaimer: SEARCH in these IB forums is miserable, I've been at it for quite awhile to no avail.
So to start, I've had a Battery Drain lately which kills my battery in a few days. I've done load tests and it's around 15 mA after an hour, so I don't see how. It's killed the replacement 4 YO lead-acid just over a month ago, then TWO brand new AGMs in three weeks. I have also done Voltage Drop across every fuse, and nothing was weird. The battery loses one entire volt in 24 hours. I set up a video camera overnight and watched it later..... nothing lit up or came on but it still drained.

I HAVE discovered while just sitting in my truck with everything off, doors closed and no key that the stereo can be turned ON with no key, doors open OR closed, doors Locked, alarm on, and any other combination. The stereo DOES turn OFF when the ignition is turned from Run to Off and key removed AFTER the doors open, and I figure that's normal. BUTTTTTTTTTT........ after it shuts off, it can be turned right back on by pushing the POWER button on the stereo. WTF? I've let it sit, doors closed, locked and alarmed for thirty minutes and it's STILL ON. Again, ONLY after it's been turned on Manually. WTFA???
Is this a NORMAL action for the stereo on these things?

RLXXI

Yes it's normal to be able to turn on the radio via power button. I and many others have discovered a situation similar if not the exact same in the load shed parameters our trucks smart charge utilize, the fix is to disconnect the battery sensor on the negative (-) battery cable about 4" from the batt, that way the alternator will default into always charging rather than shedding power the battery needs.
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CeeJay

Yeah, I tried that, but the thing charges fine while running. It's when it sits that it drains. After being driven the voltage is 12.6+. The next morning it's lucky to be 12V at all. I've even reset the BMS on every battery swap. I've looked at probably six hundred posts in this forum and figured it was either bad connections in the dash (but it doesn't flash when off), bad shifter switch (but it doesn't turn anything on), a bad ignition switch (but again, nothing is on when the truck is off), the corroded rear-view harness in the back (I just added one, and it is completely waterproof, and the problem was before that). Stupid thing is, when I put an ammeter in series after all the modules turn off there is barely any current at all, 0.018 amps. Not even CLOSE enough to drain the battery, but drain it does. Disconnected, it retains all voltage just fine. Near as I can figure, it's an intermittent thing but consistently-intermittent, as to when I'm not searching for it.
Local dealer (Ed Kenley Ford) has total moron techs; dude measured voltage ONCE, the morning AFTER I delivered it and said since it was at 13.2 volts that the alternator over-charged it. I had written in the instructions that it was a BRAND-new battery, literally from my house to there total three miles. He then changed his story, said that it was 13.6 when I dropped it off and 13.2 the next morning. OK, so a brand new battery is where it SHOULD be.......... did he check any Control Units? No. Did they do a drain check? No. Was it plugged into the diagnostic equipment? No. Dude said "There isn't any CUs stay on, they don't do that." I promptly took my truck and left.
But ANYWAY, now that I know the stereo comes on when there shouldn't be any power As Designed, I won't chase THAT rabbit.

santa06