amurray3312

The dealership specifically told me the reshimming was not covered under the powertrain warranty, but that the greasing was. How would I find out if it is or isn't covered?

edit: Called a different dealership, they said external parts won't be covered under the powertrain warranty.

bhesse

Been 9 months since this has been discussed, has anyone had success with the Ford XG-8 PTFE Lubricant or the 2-4-C Marine Lubericant W/Teflon?
Also, is or has anyone had success with the heater hose inside the female spline?

kameronth

I was using the Ford XG-8 and had to re-grease the splines about every two months because the clunk would come back. The last time I greased it (about 4 months ago) I used Super Lube synthetic grease and so far no clunk. I haven't tried the rubber hose though.

buck91

I used the XG-8 grease in Jan 2015 at about 60,000 miles. Almost 10 months and over 10,000 miles later (about 72,000 now) and its still going strong. Really made a very noticeable improvement, too. Virtually eliminated the take-off slip-bump for me. This is on the transfer case to driveshaft splines on a one piece shaft, though. And one thing I was sure to degrease at least the driveshaft yoke splines very well with carb cleaner before applying the XG-8.

Using Superlube on some poly bushings on the mustang and it seems like very good stuff; very slickery and waterproof. Had previously contacted them regarding the specs and it looks like some high quality stuff with good "PAO" synthetic base oil and fumed silica thickeners though I don't remember the solids (PTFE) content. Just going by feel, the XG-8 seems to have a much higher solids (PTFE) content, more of a paste than a grease. Feels like its using the base oil as a carrier for the solids vs a true grease with a thickened base oil and some added solids. Thats just my impression, though.

48ford

Is this an easy job to do? I have the grease from Ford but wondering how the drive shaft comes out. Any help or how to is appreciated.

winchested

You unbolt the driveahaft at the pinion on the rear end and pull it out of the transfer case. Don't drop it or you just made a $1000 paper weight.

48ford

Sounds easy. So just mark it, take the 4 bolts out and it should just pull out. Throw some grease in there and put it back together. Any torque specs. Thanks for the reply

buck91

IIRC the four pinion flange bolts are spec'd to 87 ft-lbs. Make sure to clean the threads and mating surfaces up with a brass brush. I use blue threadlocker on mine.

Also, the pinion flange was a bit stuck on mine and took a little persuading to pop off. Just take your time, and a hammer but DON'T HIT THE DRIVESHAFT just the flange

48ford

Thank you

buck91

Correction, I have 76ft-lb in my notes.