Folding Mirrors on f-150
#131
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Here are pics of the mirror plugs. I don't know what year these are from - on my 2013 all the pinout wires were numbered correctly for all the features, but some of the wires were of different colors than in the diagrams below.
Here's the driver's side:
Here's the passenger side:
In the pics above you're looking at the face of the plug - the wires come out of the backside of the plug as you look at the diagram. Also, there are a couple of very small numbers on the backside of the plug that indicate the # of the top and bottom terminals of the plug.
You can see that terminals 7 and 16 control the power fold feature, so if your plugs don't have terminals/wires in 7 and 16, then you'll need to do some minor rewiring to get that feature if you upgrade to power fold mirrors.
I don't know what you're talking about when you mention "but on the switch only pin 4 is open. Pin 6 on the switch has a solid gray wire already attached."
I don't have a diagram of the switch, but it should be readily available by googling it. However, are you talking about the switch that is currently installed in your truck???
If your truck doesn't currently have the power fold mirrors, then your current switch only controls the adjustment of the mirror. If you upgrade to power fold mirrors you'll also need to get the switch that will control the power fold feature - it functions by pulling the switch to the rear in order to fold the mirrors in/out.
.
Here's the driver's side:
Here's the passenger side:
In the pics above you're looking at the face of the plug - the wires come out of the backside of the plug as you look at the diagram. Also, there are a couple of very small numbers on the backside of the plug that indicate the # of the top and bottom terminals of the plug.
You can see that terminals 7 and 16 control the power fold feature, so if your plugs don't have terminals/wires in 7 and 16, then you'll need to do some minor rewiring to get that feature if you upgrade to power fold mirrors.
I don't know what you're talking about when you mention "but on the switch only pin 4 is open. Pin 6 on the switch has a solid gray wire already attached."
I don't have a diagram of the switch, but it should be readily available by googling it. However, are you talking about the switch that is currently installed in your truck???
If your truck doesn't currently have the power fold mirrors, then your current switch only controls the adjustment of the mirror. If you upgrade to power fold mirrors you'll also need to get the switch that will control the power fold feature - it functions by pulling the switch to the rear in order to fold the mirrors in/out.
.
Last edited by KR Kodi; 09-22-2014 at 07:41 PM.
#132
Kodi,
Thanks for the mirror plug diagrams. I did buy the power folding switch 7L1Z-17B676-AA from Ford. I will be wiring pin 16 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 16 on the driver mirror plug. I will also be wiring pin 7 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 7 on the driver mirror plug. Once joined I will run a wire from the connected pin 16s from the mirror plugs to pin 4 on the new power fold switch.
Here's where my issue is: According to donsmar1 and others, I should ALSO run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plugs to pin 6 on the new power fold switch. My wiring harness that plugs in to the new power folding switch doesn't have a wire in pin 4, so I can add it in - cool no problem. Now I'm supposed to run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plug into pin 6 on the new power fold switch, BUT there is already a gray wire in that pin.
I could pigtail into that pin 6 gray wire and connect the other two mirror plug #7 pins, but I'm unsure of what is already going on in that circuit.
I could also remove the pin 6 gray wire on the power fold switch and put the mirror plug wire in, but I'd like to find out if that would turn off another feature.
Also, I like your idea of using the automotive connections from Mouser. Did those snap in to the harness for a factory like fit? If so I may order some.
Thanks for the mirror plug diagrams. I did buy the power folding switch 7L1Z-17B676-AA from Ford. I will be wiring pin 16 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 16 on the driver mirror plug. I will also be wiring pin 7 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 7 on the driver mirror plug. Once joined I will run a wire from the connected pin 16s from the mirror plugs to pin 4 on the new power fold switch.
Here's where my issue is: According to donsmar1 and others, I should ALSO run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plugs to pin 6 on the new power fold switch. My wiring harness that plugs in to the new power folding switch doesn't have a wire in pin 4, so I can add it in - cool no problem. Now I'm supposed to run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plug into pin 6 on the new power fold switch, BUT there is already a gray wire in that pin.
I could pigtail into that pin 6 gray wire and connect the other two mirror plug #7 pins, but I'm unsure of what is already going on in that circuit.
I could also remove the pin 6 gray wire on the power fold switch and put the mirror plug wire in, but I'd like to find out if that would turn off another feature.
Also, I like your idea of using the automotive connections from Mouser. Did those snap in to the harness for a factory like fit? If so I may order some.
#133
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Kodi,
Thanks for the mirror plug diagrams. I did buy the power folding switch 7L1Z-17B676-AA from Ford. I will be wiring pin 16 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 16 on the driver mirror plug. I will also be wiring pin 7 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 7 on the driver mirror plug. Once joined I will run a wire from the connected pin 16s from the mirror plugs to pin 4 on the new power fold switch.
Here's where my issue is: According to donsmar1 and others, I should ALSO run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plugs to pin 6 on the new power fold switch. My wiring harness that plugs in to the new power folding switch doesn't have a wire in pin 4, so I can add it in - cool no problem. Now I'm supposed to run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plug into pin 6 on the new power fold switch, BUT there is already a gray wire in that pin.
I could pigtail into that pin 6 gray wire and connect the other two mirror plug #7 pins, but I'm unsure of what is already going on in that circuit.
I could also remove the pin 6 gray wire on the power fold switch and put the mirror plug wire in, but I'd like to find out if that would turn off another feature.
Also, I like your idea of using the automotive connections from Mouser. Did those snap in to the harness for a factory like fit? If so I may order some.
Thanks for the mirror plug diagrams. I did buy the power folding switch 7L1Z-17B676-AA from Ford. I will be wiring pin 16 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 16 on the driver mirror plug. I will also be wiring pin 7 on the passenger mirror plug to pin 7 on the driver mirror plug. Once joined I will run a wire from the connected pin 16s from the mirror plugs to pin 4 on the new power fold switch.
Here's where my issue is: According to donsmar1 and others, I should ALSO run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plugs to pin 6 on the new power fold switch. My wiring harness that plugs in to the new power folding switch doesn't have a wire in pin 4, so I can add it in - cool no problem. Now I'm supposed to run a wire from the connected pin 7s from the mirror plug into pin 6 on the new power fold switch, BUT there is already a gray wire in that pin.
I could pigtail into that pin 6 gray wire and connect the other two mirror plug #7 pins, but I'm unsure of what is already going on in that circuit.
I could also remove the pin 6 gray wire on the power fold switch and put the mirror plug wire in, but I'd like to find out if that would turn off another feature.
Also, I like your idea of using the automotive connections from Mouser. Did those snap in to the harness for a factory like fit? If so I may order some.
I got 20 of them for installing the wires for my PowerScope Tow Mirrors to wire up the power telescoping feature. They were only about 10 cents each, but with shipping cost around $10!!
I only used several, and I sent another forum member a few, so I've still got about a dozen. PM me your address and how many you need and I'll stick them in an envelope and send them to you. You can see the Mouser part# in the picture above, but until I run out I'll supply a couple forum members with what I have left.
.
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JMH77 (09-23-2014)
#134
Hey Tom, did you ever get yours working with the new DSM and/or reprogrammed with someone else's VIN? My Tech couldn't fool my existing DSM to make it think it is blank. Purchased a new DSM and he is going to try to program it with a VIN I provided with my year, model, and powerfolding feature enabled.
Haven't posted in a while but I'm still here, still have my 2010 Lariat Screw with power folding/heat/memory/puddle mirrors that don't fold. I had my truck at the dealer for some body work that included replacing the passenger mirror so I opted to let them take a swing at getting these to work. No luck. I paid them to replace the dsm from memory level 3 to 4 but I kinda saw that coming from last summer's work and pestering every dealership I knew into free info. The scanner can see the power fold but when the switch is pressed, ground is lost and nothing happens. They suggested if I could get 'as-builts' from another 2010 with factory folds, I could fool the dsm.
So I'm looking, begging, searching.. Anyone?
So I'm looking, begging, searching.. Anyone?
#135
FCancer... got some new updates on the DSM module.
So, to re-iterate, I have a 2011 F-150 Platinum with Manual Fold/telecscope TOW mirrors but powered everything else on it with memory seats.
Purchased a 2014 set of powerfolding, powertelescoping TOW mirrors from an online member here. I wanted to use the DSM to control the mirrors to make it as stock as possible as opposed to hardwiring it to make it work. It would/should retain the memory functionality since all the wiring is going through the DSM to power the mirrors and such.
Swapped the 2011 TOW mirrors for the 2014 and also the physical switch to power folding switch. Did nothing. Would not fold. Did research and the DSM needs to recognize this functionality. Looked at all the plugs on the mirror and switch, and they are filled. I assumed, all pre-wired and ready to go, but just need the DSM to know I have power folding now. Brought car to dealership.
Tech tried to fool the computer into thinking the DSM was blank and try to re-program. This is using v 92.x software with VCM2. No luck. Pulled fuse and cables, etc...
Bought a new DSM... from a previous post, somebody said it didn't work for them. I still took a stab at it as I was out of options besides manually wiring it up. Bought FMCBB5Z14C708A for roughly $160 bucks, plugged it in, and it worked!!! Didn't even have to program anything or nothing. I still have to test this out to make sure all the memory functions work, but so far so good. If this is good, I will then begin wiring up the telescoping option!!
So, to re-iterate, I have a 2011 F-150 Platinum with Manual Fold/telecscope TOW mirrors but powered everything else on it with memory seats.
Purchased a 2014 set of powerfolding, powertelescoping TOW mirrors from an online member here. I wanted to use the DSM to control the mirrors to make it as stock as possible as opposed to hardwiring it to make it work. It would/should retain the memory functionality since all the wiring is going through the DSM to power the mirrors and such.
Swapped the 2011 TOW mirrors for the 2014 and also the physical switch to power folding switch. Did nothing. Would not fold. Did research and the DSM needs to recognize this functionality. Looked at all the plugs on the mirror and switch, and they are filled. I assumed, all pre-wired and ready to go, but just need the DSM to know I have power folding now. Brought car to dealership.
Tech tried to fool the computer into thinking the DSM was blank and try to re-program. This is using v 92.x software with VCM2. No luck. Pulled fuse and cables, etc...
Bought a new DSM... from a previous post, somebody said it didn't work for them. I still took a stab at it as I was out of options besides manually wiring it up. Bought FMCBB5Z14C708A for roughly $160 bucks, plugged it in, and it worked!!! Didn't even have to program anything or nothing. I still have to test this out to make sure all the memory functions work, but so far so good. If this is good, I will then begin wiring up the telescoping option!!
Last edited by Pimp-boy; 09-23-2014 at 03:55 PM.
#136
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Pimp- great news. Seems like a bargain vs hacking wiring for 4 hours. If you wouldn't mind could you look at the DSM you pulled out and either post or PM me that part number?
I'm in the same boat with my 2012 lariat - everything but the fold switch and non-fold tow mirrors from the factory. I'm hoping my current and your original match up so I can have higher confidence in the same swap for my truck.
I'm in the same boat with my 2012 lariat - everything but the fold switch and non-fold tow mirrors from the factory. I'm hoping my current and your original match up so I can have higher confidence in the same swap for my truck.
#137
OLD Ford DSM
NEW Ford DSM
Seems like all of my memory functions work so far. Trying different configurations.
Pimp- great news. Seems like a bargain vs hacking wiring for 4 hours. If you wouldn't mind could you look at the DSM you pulled out and either post or PM me that part number?
I'm in the same boat with my 2012 lariat - everything but the fold switch and non-fold tow mirrors from the factory. I'm hoping my current and your original match up so I can have higher confidence in the same swap for my truck.
I'm in the same boat with my 2012 lariat - everything but the fold switch and non-fold tow mirrors from the factory. I'm hoping my current and your original match up so I can have higher confidence in the same swap for my truck.
Here's a pic of the NEW part number.
#138
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#139
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Hey Kodi,
I order the same thing, but was too anxious and ended up crazy gluing them before they arrived in the mail from Mouser. Now i can't take them off. LOL. Oh well. Next Ford wiring project I guess. Quick question. I have an aftermarket alarm, was told that DSM will need to be programmed to make my puddle lights come on with my aftermarket remote unlock function. It kind of sucks. Because it works fine with the original Key FOB when cabin lights, parking lights and puddle lights come on when I hit the unlock button, but not for my Python remote unlock alarm. The python does everything like the Ford Key FOB except for puddle light. So for now, as a work around, I hit unlock my Factory remote along with my after market alarm remote. :-(.
I order the same thing, but was too anxious and ended up crazy gluing them before they arrived in the mail from Mouser. Now i can't take them off. LOL. Oh well. Next Ford wiring project I guess. Quick question. I have an aftermarket alarm, was told that DSM will need to be programmed to make my puddle lights come on with my aftermarket remote unlock function. It kind of sucks. Because it works fine with the original Key FOB when cabin lights, parking lights and puddle lights come on when I hit the unlock button, but not for my Python remote unlock alarm. The python does everything like the Ford Key FOB except for puddle light. So for now, as a work around, I hit unlock my Factory remote along with my after market alarm remote. :-(.
#140
Hey Kodi, I order the same thing, but was too anxious and ended up crazy gluing them before they arrived in the mail from Mouser. Now i can't take them off. LOL. Oh well. Next Ford wiring project I guess. Quick question. I have an aftermarket alarm, was told that DSM will need to be programmed to make my puddle lights come on with my aftermarket remote unlock function. It kind of sucks. Because it works fine with the original Key FOB when cabin lights, parking lights and puddle lights come on when I hit the unlock button, but not for my Python remote unlock alarm. The python does everything like the Ford Key FOB except for puddle light. So for now, as a work around, I hit unlock my Factory remote along with my after market alarm remote. :-(.