F150 Cranks but will not start
12-18-2015, 06:34 PM
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F150 Cranks but will not start
A long time reader of the Forum I now need the cumulative knowledge of the members. A week ago my 2011 F150 XLT, 3.7L with 52,000 miles, failed to start. It seemed to hit once then cranked for five or six seconds then stopped cranking. Several tries later, nothing. Had it towed to the dealer who suspected the fuel pump.
The next day they thought it was in the anti-theft system. Next day it was a bad injector, the spark plugs were contaminated with fuel and had to be replaced.
The next day the injectors tested good and the technician suspected the aftermarket remote start control. And one more day I was told the truck was fixed. The technician said he re-connected the remote start after test driving. I paid my bill and guess what? It would not start.
Day five: Shop called and said technician was test driving the truck with the remote start disconnected. I recommend they re-hook the remote start and if the truck would not start the remote was probably the culprit. Lo and behold, the truck started!
The consensus in the shop is that somehow the remote start is keeping the fuel injectors turned on and flooding the engine. They want to keep the truck over the weekend with the remote disconnected to see if the injectors leak.
I am a EE with 34 years experience troubleshooting industrial control, much of it in auto assembly plant robotic and control maintenance and troubleshooting, so I am skeptical of the technician’s ability.
Does anyone have any experience with remote start systems keeping the fuel injectors turned on? Or any similar starting issues?
This is my sixth new F150 and I have had some other problems. First, at low speed the transmission would shift so hard I could hear the universal joints clanging. Several trips to the dealer and several software updates later it was OK. Then at just under 19,000 the brake rotors warped. They were not covered by warranty and service manager admitted the rotors were not as heavy duty as the ones in the 2003 F150 I had traded in which had good rotors at 83,000 miles.
I was planning on buying F150 No. 7 (red, of course) tnext year. However, my experience with this one has me wondering if Ford is letting its quality slip.
Thanks in advance for any help or opinions.
The next day they thought it was in the anti-theft system. Next day it was a bad injector, the spark plugs were contaminated with fuel and had to be replaced.
The next day the injectors tested good and the technician suspected the aftermarket remote start control. And one more day I was told the truck was fixed. The technician said he re-connected the remote start after test driving. I paid my bill and guess what? It would not start.
Day five: Shop called and said technician was test driving the truck with the remote start disconnected. I recommend they re-hook the remote start and if the truck would not start the remote was probably the culprit. Lo and behold, the truck started!
The consensus in the shop is that somehow the remote start is keeping the fuel injectors turned on and flooding the engine. They want to keep the truck over the weekend with the remote disconnected to see if the injectors leak.
I am a EE with 34 years experience troubleshooting industrial control, much of it in auto assembly plant robotic and control maintenance and troubleshooting, so I am skeptical of the technician’s ability.
Does anyone have any experience with remote start systems keeping the fuel injectors turned on? Or any similar starting issues?
This is my sixth new F150 and I have had some other problems. First, at low speed the transmission would shift so hard I could hear the universal joints clanging. Several trips to the dealer and several software updates later it was OK. Then at just under 19,000 the brake rotors warped. They were not covered by warranty and service manager admitted the rotors were not as heavy duty as the ones in the 2003 F150 I had traded in which had good rotors at 83,000 miles.
I was planning on buying F150 No. 7 (red, of course) tnext year. However, my experience with this one has me wondering if Ford is letting its quality slip.
Thanks in advance for any help or opinions.
12-18-2015, 10:00 PM
#2
Senior Member
Sounds like they are lost as an Easter egg. Why wouldn't they just test the voltage at the plugs of the injectors? If it has 12 volts than that is a problem if no voltage=no problem there.
12-20-2015, 08:14 AM
#4
Mark
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A long time reader of the Forum I now need the cumulative knowledge of the members. A week ago my 2011 F150 XLT, 3.7L with 52,000 miles, failed to start. It seemed to hit once then cranked for five or six seconds then stopped cranking. Several tries later, nothing. Had it towed to the dealer who suspected the fuel pump.
The next day they thought it was in the anti-theft system. Next day it was a bad injector, the spark plugs were contaminated with fuel and had to be replaced.
The next day the injectors tested good and the technician suspected the aftermarket remote start control. And one more day I was told the truck was fixed. The technician said he re-connected the remote start after test driving. I paid my bill and guess what? It would not start.
Day five: Shop called and said technician was test driving the truck with the remote start disconnected. I recommend they re-hook the remote start and if the truck would not start the remote was probably the culprit. Lo and behold, the truck started!
The consensus in the shop is that somehow the remote start is keeping the fuel injectors turned on and flooding the engine. They want to keep the truck over the weekend with the remote disconnected to see if the injectors leak.
I am a EE with 34 years experience troubleshooting industrial control, much of it in auto assembly plant robotic and control maintenance and troubleshooting, so I am skeptical of the technician’s ability.
Does anyone have any experience with remote start systems keeping the fuel injectors turned on? Or any similar starting issues?
This is my sixth new F150 and I have had some other problems. First, at low speed the transmission would shift so hard I could hear the universal joints clanging. Several trips to the dealer and several software updates later it was OK. Then at just under 19,000 the brake rotors warped. They were not covered by warranty and service manager admitted the rotors were not as heavy duty as the ones in the 2003 F150 I had traded in which had good rotors at 83,000 miles.
I was planning on buying F150 No. 7 (red, of course) tnext year. However, my experience with this one has me wondering if Ford is letting its quality slip.
Thanks in advance for any help or opinions.
The next day they thought it was in the anti-theft system. Next day it was a bad injector, the spark plugs were contaminated with fuel and had to be replaced.
The next day the injectors tested good and the technician suspected the aftermarket remote start control. And one more day I was told the truck was fixed. The technician said he re-connected the remote start after test driving. I paid my bill and guess what? It would not start.
Day five: Shop called and said technician was test driving the truck with the remote start disconnected. I recommend they re-hook the remote start and if the truck would not start the remote was probably the culprit. Lo and behold, the truck started!
The consensus in the shop is that somehow the remote start is keeping the fuel injectors turned on and flooding the engine. They want to keep the truck over the weekend with the remote disconnected to see if the injectors leak.
I am a EE with 34 years experience troubleshooting industrial control, much of it in auto assembly plant robotic and control maintenance and troubleshooting, so I am skeptical of the technician’s ability.
Does anyone have any experience with remote start systems keeping the fuel injectors turned on? Or any similar starting issues?
This is my sixth new F150 and I have had some other problems. First, at low speed the transmission would shift so hard I could hear the universal joints clanging. Several trips to the dealer and several software updates later it was OK. Then at just under 19,000 the brake rotors warped. They were not covered by warranty and service manager admitted the rotors were not as heavy duty as the ones in the 2003 F150 I had traded in which had good rotors at 83,000 miles.
I was planning on buying F150 No. 7 (red, of course) tnext year. However, my experience with this one has me wondering if Ford is letting its quality slip.
Thanks in advance for any help or opinions.
12-20-2015, 08:27 AM
#5
Senior Member
1.) Rotors are covered 3/36. Pads are 12mo/18k. Rotors should have been turned under warranty. 2.) Check the fuel pump fuse in the BJB. Its a 20A mini. Look at the top of it without pulling it out. It may be darker on one side. The fuse overheats in the box and looses contact at times. If you pull it out and its bad enough it will fall apart. Theres a TSB to relocate the fuse to an unused spot in the BJB and use a heavier duty 20A fuse.
12-21-2015, 11:55 AM
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Having owned six new F150s and two new rangers before that , I believe that I am qualified to comment on quality I have observed over a 24-year period. Admittedly, four of the F150s and the Rangers accumulated fewer miles than my 2011. None of them had any problems.
I drove a 2003 to 87,000 miles before trading it for the 2011. the 2003 still had the original brakes and two original tires (well worn but not worn out). So I am not hard on vehicles.
I failed to mention in the original post that the rear window defroster has also failed. The repair estimate is over $400! And from what I read in the forums, this is a common problem.
Brakes, fuel injection, defroster? Does anyone else see quality issues here, or should I expect to have even more failures with another new F150?
Last edited by Lou46; 12-21-2015 at 11:58 AM.
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12-21-2015, 12:00 PM
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12-21-2015, 12:04 PM
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1.) Rotors are covered 3/36. Pads are 12mo/18k. Rotors should have been turned under warranty. 2.) Check the fuel pump fuse in the BJB. Its a 20A mini. Look at the top of it without pulling it out. It may be darker on one side. The fuse overheats in the box and looses contact at times. If you pull it out and its bad enough it will fall apart. Theres a TSB to relocate the fuse to an unused spot in the BJB and use a heavier duty 20A fuse.