F150 3.5L Ecoboost Camshaft to Crankshaft Correlation P0016 P0017 P0018 P0019
05-12-2016, 12:41 PM
#1
F150 3.5L Ecoboost Camshaft to Crankshaft Correlation P0016 P0017 P0018 P0019
My sons 2012 F150 FX4 lost power and the engine light came on, and had mis-fire at idle. Diagnostic code was P0016. Was looking at the long list of things that could cause the Cam and Crank timing to be off, and I started to panic. Sounded like a real expensive repair, changing chains, or cam phasers.
Was told that the variable valve timing advances with RPM, and at idle, there should be no advance. The engine checks the advance at idle, and if the cams are not all returned to 0, it flags the code, and you are now in limp home mode.
Talking with alot of people, one suggestion was to just clear the code, and take the connector off the VVT solenoid for that code. Using wires from the battery, cycle the solenoid quickly about 10 times at the connector (12V), to see if it is stuck, and can get it free. It will click as it cycles.
The first time I hit it with 12v, I don't think it clicked, but did either on the 2nd or 3rd hit.
After we did this, we replaced the connector, and started the truck. The misfire was still there. We then drove the truck around, and it had full power, and then we came back to idle, and the misfire was gone. It has been several days now, and the truck is working fine.
Thought I would put this on the forum to help out others, since taking it directly to the shop might cost you alot. This is worth a try.
Was told that the variable valve timing advances with RPM, and at idle, there should be no advance. The engine checks the advance at idle, and if the cams are not all returned to 0, it flags the code, and you are now in limp home mode.
Talking with alot of people, one suggestion was to just clear the code, and take the connector off the VVT solenoid for that code. Using wires from the battery, cycle the solenoid quickly about 10 times at the connector (12V), to see if it is stuck, and can get it free. It will click as it cycles.
The first time I hit it with 12v, I don't think it clicked, but did either on the 2nd or 3rd hit.
After we did this, we replaced the connector, and started the truck. The misfire was still there. We then drove the truck around, and it had full power, and then we came back to idle, and the misfire was gone. It has been several days now, and the truck is working fine.
Thought I would put this on the forum to help out others, since taking it directly to the shop might cost you alot. This is worth a try.
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jakeharry (03-02-2024)
05-12-2016, 03:31 PM
#2
Senior Member
P0016 is directly related to a stretch timing chain. Check out the 2011 + Engine thread for timing chain issues etc.
+1 on the spark plugs and boots need to be replaced ASAP. First sign of a misfire on those engines get the plugs changed or you can burn out the CATS due to fuel hitting them.
+1 on the spark plugs and boots need to be replaced ASAP. First sign of a misfire on those engines get the plugs changed or you can burn out the CATS due to fuel hitting them.
05-13-2016, 08:36 AM
#3
The misfire was from the VVT phaser being advance at idle, when they should not be. Misfire is gone after we unstuck the solenoid. But if a get a misfire again, I will replace the plugs. Thanks
04-26-2019, 06:23 PM
#4
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2012 f150
I'm having a similar issue with the variable valve timing actuator can you tell me where they are actually located so I can test them
My sons 2012 F150 FX4 lost power and the engine light came on, and had mis-fire at idle. Diagnostic code was P0016. Was looking at the long list of things that could cause the Cam and Crank timing to be off, and I started to panic. Sounded like a real expensive repair, changing chains, or cam phasers.
Was told that the variable valve timing advances with RPM, and at idle, there should be no advance. The engine checks the advance at idle, and if the cams are not all returned to 0, it flags the code, and you are now in limp home mode.
Talking with alot of people, one suggestion was to just clear the code, and take the connector off the VVT solenoid for that code. Using wires from the battery, cycle the solenoid quickly about 10 times at the connector (12V), to see if it is stuck, and can get it free. It will click as it cycles.
The first time I hit it with 12v, I don't think it clicked, but did either on the 2nd or 3rd hit.
After we did this, we replaced the connector, and started the truck. The misfire was still there. We then drove the truck around, and it had full power, and then we came back to idle, and the misfire was gone. It has been several days now, and the truck is working fine.
Thought I would put this on the forum to help out others, since taking it directly to the shop might cost you alot. This is worth a try.
Was told that the variable valve timing advances with RPM, and at idle, there should be no advance. The engine checks the advance at idle, and if the cams are not all returned to 0, it flags the code, and you are now in limp home mode.
Talking with alot of people, one suggestion was to just clear the code, and take the connector off the VVT solenoid for that code. Using wires from the battery, cycle the solenoid quickly about 10 times at the connector (12V), to see if it is stuck, and can get it free. It will click as it cycles.
The first time I hit it with 12v, I don't think it clicked, but did either on the 2nd or 3rd hit.
After we did this, we replaced the connector, and started the truck. The misfire was still there. We then drove the truck around, and it had full power, and then we came back to idle, and the misfire was gone. It has been several days now, and the truck is working fine.
Thought I would put this on the forum to help out others, since taking it directly to the shop might cost you alot. This is worth a try.
04-26-2019, 06:32 PM
#5
My sons 2012 F150 FX4 lost power and the engine light came on, and had mis-fire at idle. Diagnostic code was P0016. Was looking at the long list of things that could cause the Cam and Crank timing to be off, and I started to panic. Sounded like a real expensive repair, changing chains, or cam phasers.
Was told that the variable valve timing advances with RPM, and at idle, there should be no advance. The engine checks the advance at idle, and if the cams are not all returned to 0, it flags the code, and you are now in limp home mode.
Talking with alot of people, one suggestion was to just clear the code, and take the connector off the VVT solenoid for that code. Using wires from the battery, cycle the solenoid quickly about 10 times at the connector (12V), to see if it is stuck, and can get it free. It will click as it cycles.
The first time I hit it with 12v, I don't think it clicked, but did either on the 2nd or 3rd hit.
After we did this, we replaced the connector, and started the truck. The misfire was still there. We then drove the truck around, and it had full power, and then we came back to idle, and the misfire was gone. It has been several days now, and the truck is working fine.
Thought I would put this on the forum to help out others, since taking it directly to the shop might cost you alot. This is worth a try.
Was told that the variable valve timing advances with RPM, and at idle, there should be no advance. The engine checks the advance at idle, and if the cams are not all returned to 0, it flags the code, and you are now in limp home mode.
Talking with alot of people, one suggestion was to just clear the code, and take the connector off the VVT solenoid for that code. Using wires from the battery, cycle the solenoid quickly about 10 times at the connector (12V), to see if it is stuck, and can get it free. It will click as it cycles.
The first time I hit it with 12v, I don't think it clicked, but did either on the 2nd or 3rd hit.
After we did this, we replaced the connector, and started the truck. The misfire was still there. We then drove the truck around, and it had full power, and then we came back to idle, and the misfire was gone. It has been several days now, and the truck is working fine.
Thought I would put this on the forum to help out others, since taking it directly to the shop might cost you alot. This is worth a try.
You can clear the code and the truck will run "good" again for a while until it senses the cams are out of sync with the crank and then throws another code.
Ford wants WAY too much money to do the repair. Find a good reputable mechanic and have it all done. Replace everything on the front end, timing chain, guides, VCTs, tensioners...etc. Should be about 2k and you'll be good for another 7-10 years.
A word of caution...these are whats referred to as "interference" engines. If the timing chain gets too loose, and/or jumps a tooth or worse two teeth well then your vavles start to hit the tops of the pistons and at that point you'll be shopping for a new engine.
Last edited by Stu Cazzo; 04-26-2019 at 06:37 PM.
12-31-2019, 12:55 PM
#6
2011 Ecoboost
I hate to burst your balloon but my 2013 did the same thing. It displayed the same issues you describe...no power, engine codes etc. It would happen sporadically and come and go. Maybe you're right and it is just a solenoid...my experiences however suggest otherwise.
You can clear the code and the truck will run "good" again for a while until it senses the cams are out of sync with the crank and then throws another code.
Ford wants WAY too much money to do the repair. Find a good reputable mechanic and have it all done. Replace everything on the front end, timing chain, guides, VCTs, tensioners...etc. Should be about 2k and you'll be good for another 7-10 years.
A word of caution...these are whats referred to as "interference" engines. If the timing chain gets too loose, and/or jumps a tooth or worse two teeth well then your vavles start to hit the tops of the pistons and at that point you'll be shopping for a new engine.
You can clear the code and the truck will run "good" again for a while until it senses the cams are out of sync with the crank and then throws another code.
Ford wants WAY too much money to do the repair. Find a good reputable mechanic and have it all done. Replace everything on the front end, timing chain, guides, VCTs, tensioners...etc. Should be about 2k and you'll be good for another 7-10 years.
A word of caution...these are whats referred to as "interference" engines. If the timing chain gets too loose, and/or jumps a tooth or worse two teeth well then your vavles start to hit the tops of the pistons and at that point you'll be shopping for a new engine.
i just did my timing chain and now i got p0018 and p0019 codes and im 100% sure the engine is in time..... but its saying bank 2 sensor a/b so im assuming its the solenoids are fked.... im at 208k miles btw this is my second timing chain ive replaced so nothing new... first one i did at 110k and took me like 20hrs lol this time it took around 12. engine runs fine.... just those 2 damn codes.... and it revs fine just when coming down from a rev it gets kinda rough.... but WoT runs like butter so im assuming theres a issue with VCT solenoids a/b on driver side.... codes read bank 2 sensor A and bank 2 sensor B respectively. Considering the part number from ford on them ends in A and B that makes it easy.. bank 2 is driver side. Gonna pull cover today and test with 12v each solenoid on that side and see if they are stuck.
08-17-2020, 10:27 PM
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i just did my timing chain and now i got p0018 and p0019 codes and im 100% sure the engine is in time..... but its saying bank 2 sensor a/b so im assuming its the solenoids are fked.... im at 208k miles btw this is my second timing chain ive replaced so nothing new... first one i did at 110k and took me like 20hrs lol this time it took around 12. engine runs fine.... just those 2 damn codes.... and it revs fine just when coming down from a rev it gets kinda rough.... but WoT runs like butter so im assuming theres a issue with VCT solenoids a/b on driver side.... codes read bank 2 sensor A and bank 2 sensor B respectively. Considering the part number from ford on them ends in A and B that makes it easy.. bank 2 is driver side. Gonna pull cover today and test with 12v each solenoid on that side and see if they are stuck.
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02-27-2024, 10:43 AM
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i just did my timing chain and now i got p0018 and p0019 codes and im 100% sure the engine is in time..... but its saying bank 2 sensor a/b so im assuming its the solenoids are fked.... im at 208k miles btw this is my second timing chain ive replaced so nothing new... first one i did at 110k and took me like 20hrs lol this time it took around 12. engine runs fine.... just those 2 damn codes.... and it revs fine just when coming down from a rev it gets kinda rough.... but WoT runs like butter so im assuming theres a issue with VCT solenoids a/b on driver side.... codes read bank 2 sensor A and bank 2 sensor B respectively. Considering the part number from ford on them ends in A and B that makes it easy.. bank 2 is driver side. Gonna pull cover today and test with 12v each solenoid on that side and see if they are stuck.
02-27-2024, 11:44 AM
#10
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