digitaltrucker

I cant even get them to fix my AC, let alone replace the drive shaft! Heck, the service advisor has already told me it was a maintenance repair that Ford would not pay for, regardless of warranty or not! (Yes I know he is wrong!) Called Ford and they said they support whatever the Service advisor says at the dealership!


So at some point, and much to Fords pleasure, guys like me just give up! Why deal with all the mental anguish Ford causes! About a year ago, I had an independent shop do it for 100 bucks. It just came back so I ordered all of the Ford grease and clamps to do it myself. Smooth ride once again! For how long, dont know but I am prepared to do it myself.

Will look at the new 18 Tundra with the new 6 Turbo.

Koolponycar

talked to my dealer and another dealer. They have to get approval from ford to order another driveshaft which i was told was around $400-500 bucks. Both dealerships managers did not see any updated type shafts or TSB, just the same one for the kit 9L3Z-4W602. I was told where they replaced a couple of shafts under submitted approval that the problem still came back on those. So they do not know if there is a real fix by ford. Probably just installing the same shaft so it will come back unless it has a different yoke or coating. Nickel would be soft, maybe zinc like the mechanic said at the end of his video. i was told the raptor shaft of course has more suspension travel and play than a f150 so that may be why they got a recall and f150 didn't.

Augster

Well, if you think that it's just a "Ford" thing, then you are quite mistaken; resistance to "warranty" coverage on troublesome issues is universal to all car dealers and is not a Ford-specific phenomenon. My cousin has had constant issues with his Nissan Titan (climate control issues), my brother-in-law with his Honda Odyssey (problems all over the board), and my BMW 335i (premature turbo waste gate failure).

For this specific issue, it appears the transmission output shaft is not properly sealed (redesign the tail shaft seal?) from the elements to prevent lubricants from drying out. Softer metals may cover up for this issue, but it seems that more frequent lubrication maintenance is required regardless of metals (the softer nickel will probably wear faster if not also lubed periodically). I guess I'm used to doing these types of maintenance having been a tanker for 23 years where we must adhere to a strict schedule of maintenance, including following the Lube Order religiously.

Koolponycar

I feel your pain and understand, you are right. i can get it done one more time for $100 bucks before the esp runs out, but i decided i will probably do it myself too. Maybe even just install a fitting toward the splines so I can grease it myself with out pulling it. I think it would be good to install 2 fittings on opposite sides at same interval so grease gets all around. Not much you can do or just replace the shaft with serviceable parts.

digitaltrucker

No I dont, nor will I give Ford an "accepted pass" because others treat their clients like crap also!

Koolponycar

I started drilling to tap my slip yoke with a grease fitting and stopped thinking what if the splines and shaft come up this far. I wasn't quite a 1/4 in, but I got the ford grease kit 9L3Z-4W602 small pack of grease and a clamp. I decided to pull and grease it and I measure from the outside edge of Yoke to inside and it was 7 1/4 inches and the spline grooves appear to end close to 6 inches so I would have been OK to keep drilling. It looks like the thickness of the slip yoke is about 1/4 inch, so I was almost through. The upper end of about a 1 inch area is where the spline grooves end so a tap should be fine. I just want to see if I can find a fitting just under a 1/4 inch so I know nothing can hit it for sure. Maybe use a zinc coated washer to create some space. I used some of that epoxy you roll up to stick in the drilled spot and smoothed it over for now. I just used a good zip tie on the boot as the previous mechanic did the same when he did the TSB, he just tossed the clamp so I saved mine in case I want to use it. Glad to have that out of the way. I will attempt tap when this comes back and probably use some 2-4-c marine grease made by mercury called quick silver.

M0RRIS

Koolponycar can you post pics of where you installed the grease fitting?

Koolponycar

Hey Morris I didn't actually install the fitting but I was started drilling about 1" from the upper north end of the slip yoke. I would actually go closer more like a 1/2 inch from the upper north end of the slip yoke. Here is a link to a person who has done it. Watt-Maker post # 76 https://www.f150forum.com/f38/weird-...125901/index8/

Here is a link to a Drive shaft specialty store who sells the yoke with grease fittings. Take a look a the second picture down at that link and thats about where you want to tap it. http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/...and_spline.htm

Ecoboostkevin

Is your truck lowered or lifted?

Connor Deland

my truck is a 2011 f150 with the 2 peice drive shaft and i also noticed that after re greasing the clunk returned... Did your new drive shaft solve the problem and did the dealer warranty the drive shaft or did you have to pay out of pocket?