Drivers Door Power Window Issue
Not sure if this has happened to anyone before.
Couple weeks ago I got gas and I left the truck running. I drive away and the window wouldn't roll down but every other window was fine. I get home shut the truck off and restart it and the window worked fine. This morning I moved the truck and got out again with it running and took the garbage out then left for work. Get down the street and went to open the window and it didn't work but every other window worked fine. Pull over restart the truck and everything was fine again. I don't think its the switch because when it has happened I hit it a couple times and opened/closed the door and nothing changed. Just weird that if I shut of and restart its working fine again. Truck is stock, I haven't touched any wiring.
2012 STX 5.0 crew cab with 29000 miles.
Couple weeks ago I got gas and I left the truck running. I drive away and the window wouldn't roll down but every other window was fine. I get home shut the truck off and restart it and the window worked fine. This morning I moved the truck and got out again with it running and took the garbage out then left for work. Get down the street and went to open the window and it didn't work but every other window worked fine. Pull over restart the truck and everything was fine again. I don't think its the switch because when it has happened I hit it a couple times and opened/closed the door and nothing changed. Just weird that if I shut of and restart its working fine again. Truck is stock, I haven't touched any wiring.
2012 STX 5.0 crew cab with 29000 miles.
Wouldn't hurt to start with the switch, though. What I would do if it was my truck - keep your multimeter and tool set the truck and the next time it doesn't work, park, leave the truck running and pull the switch out and unplug it. Test for voltage. If there's voltage, the restart doesn't have anything to do with it. Then you can proceed with the switch and components downstream from it. If there's no voltage, then you restart and their is, then you know you can start following the wires back to their origin and testing the upstream components.
I had a similar issue and I also replaced the switch, but my problem was still AT the switch - it turned out to be the plug that plugs into the switch box. The wires weren't seated in the plug properly anymore Firmly shoving them individually into their place back into the plug solved the problem.








