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Dealer Maintenance Question

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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 02:47 PM
  #1  
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Default Dealer Maintenance Question

I have an '09 5.4 and my dad has an '11, both with around 70k on the clock. I am doing all my own maintenance and my dad is using a local dealer. Here is what he has had done lately. It sure seems like he is doing things that aren't required. What are your thoughts on what I should do considering I have done nothing but oil and filter up to now?

27 May 2014 - 73852 miles
1. Brake Flush
2. Rear differential service
3. Front differential service
4. Replace drain plug

11 Nov 2013 - 68121 miles
1. Power steering service
2. Coolant flush
3. Transmission flush
4. Filter service
5. Complete Fuel system service
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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I'd say he is getting taken advantage of. Sad deal.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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IMHO maintenance is usually a good thing and will sometimes head off issues.

Originally Posted by muddyz
27 May 2014 - 73852 miles
1. Brake Flush
Probably a good idea. Brake fluid absorbs water and that reduces its performance. If it looks nasty it's probably time to flush.

2. Rear differential service
3. Front differential service
4. Replace drain plug
IIRC Ford says 100k on these. Not going to hurt anything to get the old nasty fluid out of there. Especially if towing or hauling loads.


11 Nov 2013 - 68121 miles
1. Power steering service
Probably not needed.

2. Coolant flush
May be not needed unless there was an issue with the color (brown) time (it's time/mileage). IIRC Ford says 100k on the coolant.

3. Transmission flush
4. Filter service
I don't care what Ford and others say, every 30k for best life. Maybe every 60k, but definitely not 150k like they say.

5. Complete Fuel system service
Waste unless issues.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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The fuel system service isn't needed on the newer trucks as we have no fuel filter on the rail, its a good idea to change serp belt every 50-60k miles if your overly careful.
Diff and x-fer case fluid are all sealed and good until 100k+ miles unless you have submerged them completely in water, same goes for brake and radiator fluid, unless it looks nasty and growing crap don't worry about it.

I did the spark plugs on my 5.4 @ 70k Miles along with brakes at 35k and again at 70k. Upper control arm and ball joints as well at 70k (only 1 bad one but went on a parts fiesta) and the belt was done at 50k.

Unless you are towing or beat the truck excessively i would wait until you hit 100k miles bring it to the dealer and have them flush the torque converter and change trans filter and refill fresh, along with drain and re-fill of x-fer case, thats what I am doing anyway as I don't tow or abuse trans too much

Last edited by Robob; Jun 25, 2014 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by itguy08
Probably a good idea. Brake fluid absorbs water and that reduces its performance. If it looks nasty it's probably time to flush.
I can't be totally certain here, but I have always been told that it's not water that the brake fluid absorbs, but rather air. The point of using a fluid instead of air in compression systems is that fluids (especially brake fluid) is that the fluid does not compress as easily, making a "stronger" system.

Because of the heat from the discs/rotors/calipers, brake fluid gets pretty hot and absorbs air over time. Air compresses more easily than brake fluid ... that's why your brakes get "mushy" over time ... because of the air-entrained fluid.

The rule of thumb that I have also always been told is that whenever you get new brake pads, get a fluid flush as well. However, if at any time you feel your brakes getting "mushy", you may want to have the lines flushed and new fluid installed in the system.

Now, as for the water absorption ... perhaps a little water does get absorbed by the fluid, I don't really know ... Just never heard that before now.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 04:37 PM
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Power steering service is not needed on the 2011 because it has electric steering.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiggum
Because of the heat from the discs/rotors/calipers, brake fluid gets pretty hot and absorbs air over time. Air compresses more easily than brake fluid ... that's why your brakes get "mushy" over time ... because of the air-entrained fluid.
Hmm.. I was always told it was the water that gets absorbed and boils off when they get hot making the air and spongy pedal.

The rule of thumb that I have also always been told is that whenever you get new brake pads, get a fluid flush as well. However, if at any time you feel your brakes getting "mushy", you may want to have the lines flushed and new fluid installed in the system.
I've heard that too as well as if it looks nasty/black/whatever.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. Looks like i'll be doing the tranny and both diffs in my truck here soon.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:51 PM
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I've had my '10 since September 2009 and it has the same mileage as yours. I had the trans flushed a while back. The service interval is a little too long for my comfort. The cost to service is cheap insurance compared to the cost of the transmission.

Replacing the diff fluids is also inexpensive if you do it yourself.

Changed the spark plugs slightly early. I figure 6 years on plugs is long enough. Just be careful you clean the dust and gravel out of the well before you pull the plugs.

I also just finished changing the coolant and hoses. The last thing I need is to blow a hose late at night in the middle of no-where when it's -40 with the wife and kids en-route for a Christmas holiday. The hoses did end up looking ok but the rubber on the rad cap was showing pitting.

Next year I'll change the pads and rotors on the front and flush the system when I do it. Brake fluid is cheap and the system is easy enough to flush with the right tools.

I don't plan on doing the fuel system, not convinced it's worth it.

I don't think the dealer flushed my power steering system but they did replace the high pressure hose due to leaking.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:05 AM
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dac if you haven't done your front brakes yet I would check them out. My pads and rotors were shot at 65k. I did the rears 2 weeks ago and though they had some life left in them I was already in there so I did the pads and rotors both after seeing how bad the fronts were. While the pads had life, the rotors weren't wearing smoothly.
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