Dead battery warning...
#12
Gold Member
Just reposting this here from another thread, regarding this seems to be an issue with a partially drained battery (weird issues with unlocking) versus a completely dead or missing battery (normal manual unlocking works fine). See below:
I can confirm that this issue is REAL. Had a weak battery yesterday, and could not open the truck with the key fob or manual key in the drivers door. To be clear, the manual key would turn the lock cylinder in both directions, but no locking or unlocking would occur. Luckily the hood was unlatched, so I easily had access to jump the engine battery, and voila, the mechanical key worked in the door. Started the truck and moved it to the garage. Went out again today (hood stayed open again, just in case) and same story - very weak battery. And the manual key would NOT operate the door lock. Without jumping the engine battery, I used my multimeter and read 9.5 volts across the terminals. Disconnected the negative cable, and tested the door key - and it WORKED.
This is some seriously stupid piece of Ford engineering.
Installed a new battery and back in business. But seriously considering mounting a long-handled screwdriver to the chassis in case I ever need to jimmy the hood latch to gain access to a dead battery. The manual door latch is definitely being effected by an undercharged (but not dead or missing) battery, but why? or how? I have no idea
.
I can confirm that this issue is REAL. Had a weak battery yesterday, and could not open the truck with the key fob or manual key in the drivers door. To be clear, the manual key would turn the lock cylinder in both directions, but no locking or unlocking would occur. Luckily the hood was unlatched, so I easily had access to jump the engine battery, and voila, the mechanical key worked in the door. Started the truck and moved it to the garage. Went out again today (hood stayed open again, just in case) and same story - very weak battery. And the manual key would NOT operate the door lock. Without jumping the engine battery, I used my multimeter and read 9.5 volts across the terminals. Disconnected the negative cable, and tested the door key - and it WORKED.
This is some seriously stupid piece of Ford engineering.
Installed a new battery and back in business. But seriously considering mounting a long-handled screwdriver to the chassis in case I ever need to jimmy the hood latch to gain access to a dead battery. The manual door latch is definitely being effected by an undercharged (but not dead or missing) battery, but why? or how? I have no idea
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#13
Senior Member