I replaced the cooler trans lines from all I read. I considered a new set, but you are essentially buying 8 failure points that could pose an issue in the salt belt a few years down the line. My crimps were definitely sweating and I cleaned them with brake cleaner. You can see some dark residue from the leaks. There is nothing special about the crimps, the line practically falls off. I've seen cases where the crimps fail. And the clip "quick connect" fittings in the last picture have many cases of failure.
Need:
5-6 feet of 1/2" trans line from NAPA
4 3/4" dia clamps (reuse stock cooler and radiator clamps). Used this setup on many cars, feel free to use what you like.
Dremel wheel to cut two crimps. Don't go crazy deep, the rubber hose is plenty to protect the line. The crimp metal is quite thin.
You can catch about 4-8oz of fluid and add it back (a bit spilled from the lower hose when I did it).

I felt confident pushing the hose a bit over the split bead on the crimped line. I pulled almost with all my strength and couldn't get it off. In time that will form over that surface. Then I added two clamps, there is also barbed surface. If I add a third clamp over the bead, it will be much stronger than the original crimp. I guess you could flare it a bit too. I will check the clamps, in 100 miles I was thinking about pex clamps too.

 

and a timely reminder that I still need to do this

 

Yup, this is still a thing, particularly on vehicles with more corrosion (and i don't just mean rust, that's just one type of corrosion) Fordtechmakuloco posted about it again, another one in the shop with this issue.

 

Yes, they are a timebomb, even if this is a stopgap do it ASAP. It is a metal fatigue failure and no inspection can tell you when it fails. It could fail in 5 miles or 50K miles. One theory I have is the crimp seizes in the fitting and can't rotate. This puts a ton of torsional stress on it. At least free it up with some fluid film if it locked and you want to wait on it.

Be aware that the crimp shells are game for failure too. This is why I took this route. I noticed my power steering lines are sweating at the crimps(not an uncommon failure on the 6.2L with PS)

It is probably a good idea to get all new lines if you replace. Also, if your steel lines beyond the repair to the trans are rusty, replace them. Mine were in good shape.

Crown Vics are set up with flexible lines like this, a failure is unheard of.

 

I just picked up 6' of 1/2" high-pressure line and hose clamps at NAPA. Grabbed a quart of Mercon LV at O'Rielly's.

This 'fix' is happening tomorrow morning. Question I wondered was how much pressure comes from the transmission to run the fluid through the coolers and back?

 

Internally in the trans, on the very high end maybe 150-200. Above that could start damaging seals.
A 1/2" line is going to reduce pressure, probably 30%-50% of that for the cooler lines. Lets say max 60PSI, maybe 80PSI in lines. There not a lot of restriction in the cooler lines. Pressure is generally created when fluid volume has a restriction (like blood entering narrow vessels == high blood pressure).
The NAPA trans line can handle 400PSI. Remember that even the stock lines have rubber, and they are probably not "premium" rated to that PSI. And the crimps are another story.

This is not much different from adding a second cooler for mountain towing. You are going to be using rubber trans line anyway.

 

This is why we can't have nice factory things, but at least I saved my 6R80 from potential disaster. At least for the time being.

Only notes I have is I drained about 1 1/4 cup of Mercon LV out of the system when I cut the lines. I'll replace that with new fluid tomorrow morning. Now I just need to figure out how to gently secure the high pressure hose so it's not flopping around in front of the radiator. Maybe as simple as a zip tie and I can even shorten that longer length of hose getting it closer to the radiator.




^^^What a frickin' factory mess^^^
On farming equipment you'll see crimped hydraulics like this (I can't remember ever seeing quick clips though) but those lines are built for serious pressures. This just looks like a fancy factory four headed snake.

 

With this setup you don't have to worry about it 25 or 50K miles down the line. Ford place told me there were no improvements to the part.

That is probably more than enough since the tube will bite into the line but I actually slid mine over the bead. Lubed it up and and made a slight bell. Not by much but the tension gives it a bit more hold, especially after a few cycles.. 1st pic shows it.

And check the clamp torque and for any leaks after a few cycles, after that I know these clamps hold. Had this setup on a few trans cooler lines.
There are kits to repair A/C lines just like this, and those hold over 300PSI.

Yeah it is a bad design contracted out to the lowest bidder. I have similar crimped hydraulic power steering and the lines look like they need replacement.


I used zip ties in the pic to hold it in place, could also add a length of flex conduit but not really necessary.

 

Thanks for this!

Since watching Fordtechmakuloco video on this issue, I have been planning on replacing the lines on my 2010. This looks like a great alternative to the OEM lines. Sure seems like this problem is showing up a lot as these trucks get older now. I tend to like keeping everything OEM to satisfy my OCD about these things so does anyone know if Ford has improved these OEM lines to address this issue? Second question, does anyone know of any kind of "safety" that either warns you of a sudden and serious problem like a hydraulic pressure gauge or warning light? Also, is there any way to install some sort of bypass line that prevents the fluid loss if there is a break?

 

I like OEM too but I don't want to worry about this 5-10 yrs down the line. And like I posted above this "repair" is stock for a Crown Vic. Those were designed with absolute reliability in mind.
Lines are the same as what went on the truck according to the dealer. It won't happen to every truck, but there is a risk. One theory I have is the connector seizes in the quick connect and causes extra torsion. It should rotate freely.
You also have a second mode of failure with the crimps.

You may see some check trans message or wrench light come up, but it is probably too late by then. The trans will be throwing codes when it can't shift.
Once the lines break the truck will not be able to move after a few quarts are pumped out. The the friction in the torque converter and pump will grenade the trans in about 2-3 min.

If you live in a salt area, inspect the lines to the to trans connector fitting. If they are rusty, replace the entire assembly. Mine looked very good. Those are very heavy lines, in the worst case it would be a pinhole.