Brighter reverse lights? What was Ford thinking?
#71
For those wanting to power hids or small halogens under the bumper like I did, here is what you do. With your truck you got a little wiring harness with a small relay and 30amp fuse, it probably was in the glove box. These are intended for wiring up the aux trailer brake controller. Follow the directions and install the relay and fuse. This enables the 30amp circuit in the 7pin connector. The 7pin also has a backup circuit. Now go and buy yourself an automotive 12v relay and splice into the 7pins backup and 30amp circuit. Use the backup circuit to switch the relay on and get power from the 30amp circuit for the lights. Tuck the relay above the spare tire. This effectively gives you the ability to add up to 30amps worth of backup lights without running new wires to the battery. And it wont trip up the computer and cause the lights to stop functioning as referenced by the person using hids earlier. I stumbled across this because I tried moding halogens in to the stock locations and it freaks the trucks computer out. Had the same symptoms; had to turn off the truck to get them to work.
Thinking about it, I could probably rewire the factory backup lights to the circuit too and have both halogens under the bumper and in the stock backup light location.
Dam, now I'm to have to go look at the wiring
Thinking about it, I could probably rewire the factory backup lights to the circuit too and have both halogens under the bumper and in the stock backup light location.
Dam, now I'm to have to go look at the wiring
#72
do your reverse lights work with the new ones hooked up?
did you sand the paint down on the frame for the ground?
supposedly if you overload the harness it will shut power to it, and a poor ground is the culprit for many problems. If you have a voltmeter, you can tell for sure if you are getting power or not
did you sand the paint down on the frame for the ground?
supposedly if you overload the harness it will shut power to it, and a poor ground is the culprit for many problems. If you have a voltmeter, you can tell for sure if you are getting power or not
#73
Stock lights still work with the new ones hooked up. I didn't sand the paint down simply because I used a self tapping screw into the frame as the ground. I guess I will sand down the area around the screw and see if that works. If not, I'm going to tap the reverse lights directly.
#74
Automotive Refinish Tech
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by msu50000
Stock lights still work with the new ones hooked up. I didn't sand the paint down simply because I used a self tapping screw into the frame as the ground. I guess I will sand down the area around the screw and see if that works. If not, I'm going to tap the reverse lights directly.
Again you may have tried this, as I haven't read this whole thread
#75
mbullock,
No I haven't tried anything with the fuse panel yet. I didn't get the relay/fuse with my truck. Can I just put a fuse in the #21 and a relay in #9? Can it be that simple? :0
Gonna kick myself if it is, I'm going to go check my fuse box, not sure if the '11 FX4 would be different from the '10 STX...
No I haven't tried anything with the fuse panel yet. I didn't get the relay/fuse with my truck. Can I just put a fuse in the #21 and a relay in #9? Can it be that simple? :0
Gonna kick myself if it is, I'm going to go check my fuse box, not sure if the '11 FX4 would be different from the '10 STX...
#76
Automotive Refinish Tech
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by msu50000
mbullock,
No I haven't tried anything with the fuse panel yet. I didn't get the relay/fuse with my truck. Can I just put a fuse in the #21 and a relay in #9? Can it be that simple? :0
Gonna kick myself if it is, I'm going to go check my fuse box, not sure if the '11 FX4 would be different from the '10 STX...
No I haven't tried anything with the fuse panel yet. I didn't get the relay/fuse with my truck. Can I just put a fuse in the #21 and a relay in #9? Can it be that simple? :0
Gonna kick myself if it is, I'm going to go check my fuse box, not sure if the '11 FX4 would be different from the '10 STX...
I had to buy the relay from ford...it was expensive around $25(that might be wrong...I'm a ford employee, so I get a bit of a discount)...but worth not cutting into the wires for me. The fuse you can get at like auto zone or something for like $3. Make sure you get the short version, they make a tall version. And if you get the tall, the fuse cover won't close! Lol!
#77
not too great with wiring, where do the relays go? Checked the fuse box in the number 9 slot has a fuse in it... again I'm not sure if the 2010 and 2011 are the same fuse positions..
#78
Canadian Forces
Light Buster
How about just getting one of these?
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/li...ght/24146.aspx
Seems like if you could find a LED version it would be better/more durable too. For $25 its better than some of those other options.
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/li...ght/24146.aspx
Seems like if you could find a LED version it would be better/more durable too. For $25 its better than some of those other options.
#79
Automotive Refinish Tech
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by msu50000
not too great with wiring, where do the relays go? Checked the fuse box in the number 9 slot has a fuse in it... again I'm not sure if the 2010 and 2011 are the same fuse positions..
And this fuse
I'm not sure if this is your problem...but I thought it might be because it was my problem