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blinking check engine light hard acceleration

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Old Mar 6, 2021 | 10:33 PM
  #11  
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jason castillo ...
*heads-up* ...

Thread is 6-years old.

HINT/TIP: Put your complete vehicle information (year, model, cab, trim, engine, wheelbase, _x4 drive, mileage, modifications, etc., etc.) in your signature -OR- provide it in your posting(s).

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Old Mar 7, 2021 | 02:46 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by jason castillo
My truck was doing the same thing. F150 3.5 Ecoboost. The light would blink at hard acceleration with a little loss of power then let off gas and blinking stopped. Did this a few times then light came on permanently. When I checked it was cylinder 1 misfire. I had all coil packs, wires, and plugs replaced at dealer, then they replaced high pressure fuel pump because it wasn't pushing enough psi and gave it back. Four days later again the light would blink then go off at hard acceleration then stay on again. The computer said it was a misfire for cylinder 1 again. I now have it at the Ford dealership trying to figure it out. Very frustrated. Anyone else have this issue but got it fixed?
What Joes Said, as many time as I see that and think, you have the internet savvy to look it up, now you have found one of the best knowledge bases on the net. Now but you don't share your info and it could be in the wrong spot for all we know .

Originally Posted by gDMJoe
*heads-up* ...

Thread is 6-years old.

HINT/TIP: Put your complete vehicle information (year, model, cab, trim, engine, wheelbase, _x4 drive, mileage, modifications, etc., etc.) in your signature -OR- provide it in your posting(s).

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I hope you have this saved in multiple location Joe and truthfully, Thanks for trying to enlighten peeps
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Old Mar 7, 2021 | 02:54 PM
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I have a 103,000 mile, 2012 Platinum Ecoboost (twin turbo3.5L V-6) 4x4 drive, crew cab, no mods and mine does the same "stumbling engine" thing under moderate acceleration but misfires also. I think it can be two things,
FIRST, the twin turbo intercooler system was creating alot of blow-by oil and it would "flood" the intercooler and eventually the oily residue would get sucked into the cylinders causing a misfire. I drilled an extremely tiny hole in the bottom corner on the driver-side in the plastic edge that connects the intercooler and it spewed about two or three table spoons of oily water and then it seemed fine. You can buy a $300-$550 catch-can vacuum system or drill the tiny hole.
Then TWO, When I changed my battery it cleared up for several months but did it again yesterday after the Texas Ice Storm of Feb 2021. I was told sudden cold or heat shocks the battery and injures it internally somehow.
Anyway, I think the problem is that has something to do with the engine sensors and dropping voltage which tricks the computer into a false reading malfunction. When the electrical voltage is strong and steady it seem to work fine. If there is a drop or dip in electric power weird things seem to happen intermittently. I get engine codes: CO2 sensor #2 is bad and some cylinders are misfiring, but when electrical power is strong all that goes away. So the sensor can not be bad and then return to good without replacing it, The only thing I changed was my oil, air filter, and sparkplugs. I dont know if its in the battery or the alternator or where in the electrical system, but I believe that is the source. My rear window defroster also suddenly stopped working and I cant find the fuse... again electrical related. PS: I use the Interstate MT-65 battery from Costco. It was only $99 bucks !!

Last edited by Noxx; Mar 7, 2021 at 03:15 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2021 | 05:13 PM
  #14  
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Noxx ... My rear window defroster also suddenly stopped working and I cant find the fuse... again electrical related. ...
Reference: reply-post #15

Noxx - I have a 2012 F150 Platinum, Ecoboost, 4x4, with the exact same rear window defroster problem. I just quit working without incident and I have no idea where the fuse for it is located, if that is even the source of the problem. Its not listed in the Owner's Manual in the list of fuses and relays, p328 etc. I also have the sliding rear window and heated mirrors, which all seem to be tied together electrically. ...
Hummmmm ... Must have the Heller Keller edition (?) ...
*Excerpted from the 2012 F-150 owner's manual

Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel


.
Power Distribution Panel





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Old Mar 7, 2021 | 05:26 PM
  #15  
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Siber Express ... I hope you have this saved in multiple location Joe and truthfully, Thanks for trying to enlighten peeps
According to some ... It's the only (well almost only) post I make here - much to the chargrin of, and ridicule from, the absent minded, clueless, and/or lazy posters.
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Old Mar 7, 2021 | 06:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by gDMJoe
According to some ... It's the only (well almost only) post I make here - much to the chargrin of, and ridicule from, the absent minded, clueless, and/or lazy posters.
.
I have seen you make other posts, back to the if it helps one person understand it was worth it
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 07:44 AM
  #17  
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Mine does the same thing. Changed all plugs and COPS. 2010 5.4
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Old Nov 12, 2023 | 09:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Noxx
I have a 103,000 mile, 2012 Platinum Ecoboost (twin turbo3.5L V-6) 4x4 drive, crew cab, no mods and mine does the same "stumbling engine" thing under moderate acceleration but misfires also. I think it can be two things,
FIRST, the twin turbo intercooler system was creating alot of blow-by oil and it would "flood" the intercooler and eventually the oily residue would get sucked into the cylinders causing a misfire. I drilled an extremely tiny hole in the bottom corner on the driver-side in the plastic edge that connects the intercooler and it spewed about two or three table spoons of oily water and then it seemed fine. You can buy a $300-$550 catch-can vacuum system or drill the tiny hole.
Then TWO, When I changed my battery it cleared up for several months but did it again yesterday after the Texas Ice Storm of Feb 2021. I was told sudden cold or heat shocks the battery and injures it internally somehow.
Anyway, I think the problem is that has something to do with the engine sensors and dropping voltage which tricks the computer into a false reading malfunction. When the electrical voltage is strong and steady it seem to work fine. If there is a drop or dip in electric power weird things seem to happen intermittently. I get engine codes: CO2 sensor #2 is bad and some cylinders are misfiring, but when electrical power is strong all that goes away. So the sensor can not be bad and then return to good without replacing it, The only thing I changed was my oil, air filter, and sparkplugs. I dont know if its in the battery or the alternator or where in the electrical system, but I believe that is the source. My rear window defroster also suddenly stopped working and I cant find the fuse... again electrical related. PS: I use the Interstate MT-65 battery from Costco. It was only $99 bucks !!
did you ever figure it out? I am having the same issue (2014 3.5 v6 eco, 4x4, king ranch).

blinking check engine light when you put the pedal on the floor. Pretty bad misfiring. I also have the weep hole in my cooler. I run a cheap catch can. Just put the pedal on the floor and it blinked and then stayed on. Going to have the auto shop scan it tomorrow. With that said, did you figure it out?
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Old Nov 13, 2023 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FowlMouth
did you ever figure it out? I am having the same issue (2014 3.5 v6 eco, 4x4, king ranch).

blinking check engine light when you put the pedal on the floor. Pretty bad misfiring. I also have the weep hole in my cooler. I run a cheap catch can. Just put the pedal on the floor and it blinked and then stayed on. Going to have the auto shop scan it tomorrow. With that said, did you figure it out?
Mine was doing the same thing about a week ago. I pulled the codes and had p0306 (misfire on cyl # 6). Cleared the codes and swapped that coil for coil #5 then took it for a test drive. Same thing happed again (under hard acceleration flashing engine light and noticeable misfire). Brought it back to the house and pulled codes again. This time showed a p0305 code. So the misfire followed the coil. Replaced that coil and all is good again
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 10:57 AM
  #20  
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If changing plugs does not fix it switch the coil to a different cylinder see if the problem moved
Then you will know it's a coil or not
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