2011 XLT 3.7, had replaced my throttle body back in July this year. Unrelated I would think but noticed that when I stsrt driving I can feel slight heat at my feet even though my HVAC syatem is completely off. The quick fix is that I put AC on for a minute or so and heat issue goes away and does not return until I shut off truck and start it up again. Several people outside of the forum have suggested it is the blend door motor which I was going to replace the one behind radio until I realized there are 4 blend door motors. So before I start tearing apart my interior looking to get feedback on if this sounds like a blend door issue and if so, which one I need to replace. Also I do not hear any clicking anywhere and have cycled through vent settings, etc and everything works fine just this weird leak of heat that I noticed. Thanks in advance.

 

Well it is incorrect to think you have 4 blend door actuators. You have a mode door actuator which changes the air flow from floor, to vent, to defrost. Then you have a recirculation/fresh air which is only a 2 position actuator. Then you have one or two temperature blend door actuators which can allow hot or cold air or it will BLEND hot and cold to your desire. So if you only have one temperature control dial you only have one BLEND DOOR actuator and it is in the center of the dash behind the radio/climate control bezel mounted on top of the plenum assembly.

 

If you end up digging into the dash to the one behind the radio - get the Motorcraft one. This job is a pain - its very difficult to get the two screws out due to the confined space. I've tired the Dorman on and the AC Delco - both are just a tad thicker than the Motorcraft part making it almost impossible to install. Good luck - its a bear and a knuckle cutter. There's some videos on YouTube that will help - you've got to remove the radio then reach up through the glove box.

 

They made some slight changes on the 2011-2014 that makes it a little easier to get that actuator out. The 2009-2010 were more a bear than the later models. It helps to have a special socket and ratchet for tight spaces like this snap on low profile ratchet and a 5/16 socket made for it. I used this exclusively for this very job.

 

Appreciate the clarification and advice on what part to get and tools to use. Definitely pulled up YouTube as well for thise videos as well.

 

Let us know how in goes. Misery loves company.

 

to add to 1Ford tec.
if you do need to change blend actuator front screw is easy,the back screw is a hard one.
so after you get front screw out just brake tab for back screw tab and remove screw. It will work just fine with one screw.

 

I have to disagree - from experience. I did one screw and it failed again within 6 months. I guess it could have been a bad part, but I went back in with two and haven't had any problems.

 

I have used one screw many times with factory actuator on the 09-10 models. Just MAKE SURE you use the alignment notch on the middle one. Yes there are 3 holes in the actuator for mounting, front screw, center alignment pin, rear screw. If you make sure its all aligned and seated with a factory actuator it will work fine.

 

I usually removed the front screw and used a large screw driver to lift up on the actuator to clear the center alignment pin and drive pintle and pushed the actuator back far enough to access the rear screw and then removed it. You can snap off the actuator like you described also but at a small risk of cracking the plenum case in doing so. This was only on the 09-10 models as the rear screw is more easily accessed on the 11-14 models.