BDS 2.5" level with rear block question please
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
BDS 2.5" level with rear block question please
I'm considering the BDS 2.5" kit with the additional 1" rear block add-on but question how the rear block arrangement works.
I also wonder if the BDS preload spacer is worth the extra hassle and cost than a kit without one (or simply not using it and having a 2" level vs. 2.5"). Does it really make as big a difference as BDS says?
My brief research of level kits seems to lean toward NOT stacking the rear blocks but the BDS instructions seem to show that. I'm a total newbie to installing a level kit so I figured I'd ask you experts about it as I very well may be reading the instructions incorrectly.
My plan is to put Cooper ATP 275/60/20s on my stock rims in replacement of my worn out Scorpions. I figure even w/o a level they'll work with no rubbing and look better - but I'm partly worried they'll look too small once I do eventually install the level. Thoughts?
Here's the section of the BDS install instructions that reference the rear block install steps.
I also wonder if the BDS preload spacer is worth the extra hassle and cost than a kit without one (or simply not using it and having a 2" level vs. 2.5"). Does it really make as big a difference as BDS says?
My brief research of level kits seems to lean toward NOT stacking the rear blocks but the BDS instructions seem to show that. I'm a total newbie to installing a level kit so I figured I'd ask you experts about it as I very well may be reading the instructions incorrectly.
My plan is to put Cooper ATP 275/60/20s on my stock rims in replacement of my worn out Scorpions. I figure even w/o a level they'll work with no rubbing and look better - but I'm partly worried they'll look too small once I do eventually install the level. Thoughts?
Here's the section of the BDS install instructions that reference the rear block install steps.
REAR INSTALLATION (OPTIONAL KIT #013109)
1. Block the front wheels for safety.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands under the frame rails.
3. Remove the rear wheels.
4. Support the rear axle under the differential with a floor jack.
5. Disconnect the rear shocks from the axle mounts. Save hardware.
6. Remove the passenger’s side u-bolts and lower the axle away from the leaf spring. Remove the factory block from the axle and set aside.
7. Using (2) c-clamps, clamp the leaf pack on each side of the center pins. Remove the two center pins from the leaf pack.
8. Install the new provided 1” bolt-on block (02084) with the two new center pins. Run the pins up through the block and leaf pack. Fasten with the provided nuts and torque to 50 ft-lbs.
9. Reinstall the factory block on the axle and raise the axle/block up to the spring. Align the center pin heads in the block holes. Fasten the axle to the spring with the new provide u-bolts, nuts and washers. Snug u-bolts.
10. Repeat the block installation on the driver’s side.
11. Reattached the factory shocks to the axle mounts with the factory hardware. Torque bolts to 60 ft-lbs.
12. With both sides complete, install wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque lug nuts to 150ft-lbs in a crossing pattern.
13. Bounce the rear of the vehicle to settle the suspension. Torque u-bolts to 100-120 ft-lbs.
1. Block the front wheels for safety.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands under the frame rails.
3. Remove the rear wheels.
4. Support the rear axle under the differential with a floor jack.
5. Disconnect the rear shocks from the axle mounts. Save hardware.
6. Remove the passenger’s side u-bolts and lower the axle away from the leaf spring. Remove the factory block from the axle and set aside.
7. Using (2) c-clamps, clamp the leaf pack on each side of the center pins. Remove the two center pins from the leaf pack.
8. Install the new provided 1” bolt-on block (02084) with the two new center pins. Run the pins up through the block and leaf pack. Fasten with the provided nuts and torque to 50 ft-lbs.
9. Reinstall the factory block on the axle and raise the axle/block up to the spring. Align the center pin heads in the block holes. Fasten the axle to the spring with the new provide u-bolts, nuts and washers. Snug u-bolts.
10. Repeat the block installation on the driver’s side.
11. Reattached the factory shocks to the axle mounts with the factory hardware. Torque bolts to 60 ft-lbs.
12. With both sides complete, install wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque lug nuts to 150ft-lbs in a crossing pattern.
13. Bounce the rear of the vehicle to settle the suspension. Torque u-bolts to 100-120 ft-lbs.
Last edited by BillK; Aug 2, 2015 at 05:59 PM.
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They are bolting the block to the spring pack. So it's more like a dummy spring, than a block. Well, Its still a block, but it is Bolted tight and IMO I wouldn't consider that being stacked. It's legit. Seems like extra work though. If your clamps slip or something....you won't like trying to realign those pins. I'd just buy a block that is 1" or whatever taller than your stock block, then discard the stock block. No need to clamp anything or pound those center bolts out (because they don't just slide right out!).
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 480
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Thank you! The more I read about level kits the more I think I should just go with an inexpensive HBS, Autospring or Motofab 2" up front - forget about BDS or Rough Country - and call it a day.
Never mind the shop I checked with quoted me $670 installed and realigned for the BDS setup - which sounded awfully high to me even with the extra work with the preload spacer and rear blocks.
My rear garage floor to flare measurement is 39" and front is 37 1/4" so I'm thinking even with a 2" up front I'll be pretty much level. If I'm too nose high I'll worry about adding something to the rear later.
Never mind the shop I checked with quoted me $670 installed and realigned for the BDS setup - which sounded awfully high to me even with the extra work with the preload spacer and rear blocks.
My rear garage floor to flare measurement is 39" and front is 37 1/4" so I'm thinking even with a 2" up front I'll be pretty much level. If I'm too nose high I'll worry about adding something to the rear later.
Last edited by BillK; Aug 2, 2015 at 09:54 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Illinois
$670 is too much. I just did this last week.
Motofab 2.5" $54 shipped
Rear 3" block $74 shipped
Mechanic installed for $198
Alignment $80
$406 total. I could have done it myself I think, but I thought $198 was pretty fair.
Motofab 2.5" $54 shipped
Rear 3" block $74 shipped
Mechanic installed for $198
Alignment $80
$406 total. I could have done it myself I think, but I thought $198 was pretty fair.