View Poll Results: Do you like the factory battery Clamp on the 2009-2014 Ford F150's
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll
Battery Terminal - Positive Side - Replacement
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Battery Terminal - Positive Side - Replacement
I have a 2011 Ford F-150 Super Crew Cab with a 5.0 engine. I'm curious as to what others have come up with to replace the Factory Positive Battery Cable other than purchasing the whole Harness that Ford Dealers want to push. Now for those who might be reading this and have never seen the Positive Battery Clamp on a 2011 F-150, please do not suggest one of the Old School Clamps that can be bought for a couple of dollars at any parts house. For those who have already had to deal with this issue, and came up with a solution, details likes part numbers, pics, special tools etc... would be appreciated! Right now I am thinking that I am going to try and adapt a Military Style Clamp, though I am not sure I can and I am open to other options. Another question regarding the same problem, could the Factory fusible link be replaced with an aftermarket one? Does anyone have the specs on that factory fusible link?
This is the actual Clamp that is on the Positive Terminal of my Battery...
This is the actual Clamp that is on the Positive Terminal of my Battery...
Last edited by a_cmc_2b; 11-14-2018 at 03:56 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
From my research, this is the Ford OEM positive is battery terminal based on your model https://www.fordpartsprime.com/oem/f...l3z14300e.html . You can enter your VIN on the page to verify fitment. Do some research just to make sure this is what you need.
The following users liked this post:
a_cmc_2b (11-14-2018)
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I don't like that factory clamp and want to do something different. Hoping someone else has already been down this road and can point me in the right direction.
#4
Member
Something like this comes to mind.
The fuse links on the cable end itself can also be substituted with the correct amperage inline fuse link or holder. 125A and a 250A.
.
The fuse links on the cable end itself can also be substituted with the correct amperage inline fuse link or holder. 125A and a 250A.
.
The following users liked this post:
a_cmc_2b (11-14-2018)
#5
Senior Member
You didn't list "don't care as long as it isn't corroded" as an option.
The following users liked this post:
a_cmc_2b (11-14-2018)
Trending Topics
#9
This is the EXACT same reason my '13 F-150 is at the shop right now - the positive terminal on mine had corroded so bad (my fault I know) that it was basically split all apart - and with the "FORD ONLY" positive terminal required....as Pink Floyd once said "all in all its just another brick in the wall" (and this is to the tune of $1,100)