Bakflip F1 installation ?
11-16-2012, 06:11 PM
#21
i didn't want to drill holes in a new truck so i trimmed the drain tubes and left just enough length for some interference with the bed and placed them over the bed drains and they haven't moved. been ok for several months now.
11-16-2012, 08:15 PM
#22
Senior Member
BAK Flip HD
I have a Bak Flip HD, 145" 5.5boxI noticed its leaking, I had a local shop Install it.
I noticed the tailgate seal is just barely covering the top of the tailgate, and the edge of the rubber is a bit curled up, almost looks like it needs some 3M on the rail bed. Is there adjustment in the whole cover to move back and forth for the seals.
I guess I'll have loosen everything off and try moving it back and forth.
I read that if its not super tight it will leak? the front looks good lots of over hang on the rubber, but the back no so much.........
I also a a Ford rear Cargo extender & Ford Boxliner if that makes any difference
seeking advice
11-16-2012, 10:24 PM
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I used a 5/8 drill bit. The shims are already on.
Put on the front rubber stick on seal even on the bed liner (says don't use it if you have one)
Then position it so the front seals edge of The cover is just over the edge of the stick on seal.make sure to put the long stick on seal as close to the edge of the bed as possible. I used rubbing alcohol to clean off the bed liner before sticking it on.
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Put on the front rubber stick on seal even on the bed liner (says don't use it if you have one)
Then position it so the front seals edge of The cover is just over the edge of the stick on seal.make sure to put the long stick on seal as close to the edge of the bed as possible. I used rubbing alcohol to clean off the bed liner before sticking it on.
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Thanks!
11-16-2012, 10:34 PM
#24
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7/8 hole saw, 3/4 is way too small (directions say 3/4). Just pop out the plastic pieces up front from underneath the truck and drill then re-install. You don't even have to trim the hose length. Perfect as is.
I installed the foam piece/seal on the front of the bed on the back edge of it, towards the bed. Nice fit. Haven't rained since I installed so no idea on how water proof my install came out.
I installed the foam piece/seal on the front of the bed on the back edge of it, towards the bed. Nice fit. Haven't rained since I installed so no idea on how water proof my install came out.
Last edited by wolfs4evr; 11-16-2012 at 10:38 PM.
11-16-2012, 11:30 PM
#25
Put the stick on seal on the edge of the bed rail, which is closer to the back of the truck. Then when you put the cover on, the rubber seal flap on it should just overhang the edge of the stick on seal that is towards the front of the truck. This allows you to mount the whole cover itself further back towards the rear, and cover the tailgate better (that's where water can get in).
Kind of hard to explain, makes sense when you install it.
Kind of hard to explain, makes sense when you install it.
11-16-2012, 11:41 PM
#26
Granpa grocery getter...... yes it is adjustable to a limit.... under on the inside up by the window is two tightening bolts you turn by hand..... you will see them on each side... loosen them and then fold top down with tailgate open and pull down a little... you just need to even it up on the bed edge and edgw near window... then re tighten then nuts... hand tight do not over tighten... the top part should not push into the outer plastic cover... I installed mine and had to play with it to get it perfect.. I have had no leeks even washing..
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Grandpa's Grocery Getter (11-17-2012)
11-16-2012, 11:59 PM
#27
Easy install and as many have said the shims are preinstalled now. The biggest thing I thought lacking in the directions was where to approximately place the clamps. I did near the front stake pocket, about 1/3 of the way back and then just a few inches in front if the tear stake pocket. Lined everything up and clamped down right an no water issue after months of use and in very heavy rain, including hurricane Sandy.
I saw another member in here do this and I did as well for the drain tubes. I went to Lowes and picked up some 90 degree PVC elbows and then screwed them into the holes I drilled through LineX over the drain plugs and then it's a straight shot connection from the drain rail down. Looks really nice that way and no pinching of the drain tube. Sealed around lip of all with clear silicone for some extra protection. I can post pics later if you like.
I saw another member in here do this and I did as well for the drain tubes. I went to Lowes and picked up some 90 degree PVC elbows and then screwed them into the holes I drilled through LineX over the drain plugs and then it's a straight shot connection from the drain rail down. Looks really nice that way and no pinching of the drain tube. Sealed around lip of all with clear silicone for some extra protection. I can post pics later if you like.
11-17-2012, 02:10 AM
#28
Senior Member
Granpa grocery getter...... yes it is adjustable to a limit.... under on the inside up by the window is two tightening bolts you turn by hand..... you will see them on each side... loosen them and then fold top down with tailgate open and pull down a little... you just need to even it up on the bed edge and edgw near window... then re tighten then nuts... hand tight do not over tighten... the top part should not push into the outer plastic cover... I installed mine and had to play with it to get it perfect.. I have had no leeks even washing..
they didn't leave me the Instructions, so I was wondering if you could pull it back..
thanks I'll give it a try this weekend!
Grant
11-17-2012, 07:32 AM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Easy install and as many have said the shims are preinstalled now. The biggest thing I thought lacking in the directions was where to approximately place the clamps. I did near the front stake pocket, about 1/3 of the way back and then just a few inches in front if the tear stake pocket. Lined everything up and clamped down right an no water issue after months of use and in very heavy rain, including hurricane Sandy.
I saw another member in here do this and I did as well for the drain tubes. I went to Lowes and picked up some 90 degree PVC elbows and then screwed them into the holes I drilled through LineX over the drain plugs and then it's a straight shot connection from the drain rail down. Looks really nice that way and no pinching of the drain tube. Sealed around lip of all with clear silicone for some extra protection. I can post pics later if you like.
I saw another member in here do this and I did as well for the drain tubes. I went to Lowes and picked up some 90 degree PVC elbows and then screwed them into the holes I drilled through LineX over the drain plugs and then it's a straight shot connection from the drain rail down. Looks really nice that way and no pinching of the drain tube. Sealed around lip of all with clear silicone for some extra protection. I can post pics later if you like.
11-17-2012, 07:35 AM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Put the stick on seal on the edge of the bed rail, which is closer to the back of the truck. Then when you put the cover on, the rubber seal flap on it should just overhang the edge of the stick on seal that is towards the front of the truck. This allows you to mount the whole cover itself further back towards the rear, and cover the tailgate better (that's where water can get in).
Kind of hard to explain, makes sense when you install it.
Kind of hard to explain, makes sense when you install it.