Alignment off after rear level
So, I recently installed a rear leveling kit from rough country, (1'' block and new shocks). The front I already had leveled about 3 months ago. I took my truck to my local shop for an alignment and they did adjust the toe but the steering wheel is still off. the truck drives perfectly straight but when i take my hands off the wheel the wheel is crooked
Any idea how to fix this??
I did not get an alignment after I installed the front kit and had no issues until I installed the rear
Any idea how to fix this??
I did not get an alignment after I installed the front kit and had no issues until I installed the rear
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,750
Likes: 12,570
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Sounds like the alignment guy only did a halfaZZ job. The wheel should be straight as the day you got it. Too lazy to adjust the tierod ends and do a complete job. See it all the time from a local shop that does big trucks. Just lazy.
When you installed the rear blocks did change in the steering wheel orientation when driving? What was the reasoning for taking it to the alignment shop? What symptoms were present?
When driving straight down the road is the wheel straight or canted to the left?
When going straight down the road, pulling your hands off the wheel does the truck continue straight in the direction of travel or does it then veer left?
When driving straight down the road is the wheel straight or canted to the left?
When going straight down the road, pulling your hands off the wheel does the truck continue straight in the direction of travel or does it then veer left?
When I installed the rear blocks it changed the steering wheel cocking it to the right. when driving straight the wheel is a little off to the right. When I pull my hands off the wheel, it is cocked to the right
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,750
Likes: 12,570
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Odd that the rear block did that, myself, I've never had that happen, and I've put blocks or leaves in every truck I've ever owned.
Bottom line is, the mech didn't do a complete job. He owes you a straight wheel.
Bottom line is, the mech didn't do a complete job. He owes you a straight wheel.
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If the steering wheel orientation changed when you put the blocks in that would indicate the trust, or angle of the rear axle in relation to the front axle has changed. Not all lift blocks are created equal!
Some blocks do not include the all of the factory locator dowels and recessed points like the OEM units. Validate yours.
I would jack up the truck and support the frame with jack stands. Then loosen the ubolts and tighten each side. The rear end should be hanging freely. In a uniform cross pattern tighten, and alternate between left and right side frequently, making sure to not get to far ahead on one particular side. When done the exposed bolt lengths should be near the same on all eight.
I've had a block change do the same to me on my previous Silverado 2500HD. I ended up using tie straps to align the thrust angle, then tighten the blocks/ubolts. Took me three attempts but I got it pretty spot on in the end.
Some blocks do not include the all of the factory locator dowels and recessed points like the OEM units. Validate yours.
I would jack up the truck and support the frame with jack stands. Then loosen the ubolts and tighten each side. The rear end should be hanging freely. In a uniform cross pattern tighten, and alternate between left and right side frequently, making sure to not get to far ahead on one particular side. When done the exposed bolt lengths should be near the same on all eight.
I've had a block change do the same to me on my previous Silverado 2500HD. I ended up using tie straps to align the thrust angle, then tighten the blocks/ubolts. Took me three attempts but I got it pretty spot on in the end.
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,750
Likes: 12,570
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Some good pointes. May I add, if those are tapered blocks, and they should be, make sure the short side is mounted towards the front. Also, be sure your ubolts are all torqued to specs using the pattern Joe mentioned.
I just assumed that all was done correctly.
Just curious, you didn't stack blocks by chance?
I just assumed that all was done correctly.
Just curious, you didn't stack blocks by chance?
If the steering wheel orientation changed when you put the blocks in that would indicate the trust, or angle of the rear axle in relation to the front axle has changed. Not all lift blocks are created equal!
Some blocks do not include the all of the factory locator dowels and recessed points like the OEM units. Validate yours.
I would jack up the truck and support the frame with jack stands. Then loosen the ubolts and tighten each side. The rear end should be hanging freely. In a uniform cross pattern tighten, and alternate between left and right side frequently, making sure to not get to far ahead on one particular side. When done the exposed bolt lengths should be near the same on all eight.
I've had a block change do the same to me on my previous Silverado 2500HD. I ended up using tie straps to align the thrust angle, then tighten the blocks/ubolts. Took me three attempts but I got it pretty spot on in the end.
Some blocks do not include the all of the factory locator dowels and recessed points like the OEM units. Validate yours.
I would jack up the truck and support the frame with jack stands. Then loosen the ubolts and tighten each side. The rear end should be hanging freely. In a uniform cross pattern tighten, and alternate between left and right side frequently, making sure to not get to far ahead on one particular side. When done the exposed bolt lengths should be near the same on all eight.
I've had a block change do the same to me on my previous Silverado 2500HD. I ended up using tie straps to align the thrust angle, then tighten the blocks/ubolts. Took me three attempts but I got it pretty spot on in the end.








