5.0 Header bolt torque spec
Grumpy Old Man
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,129
Likes: 886
From: Midland County Texas, just west of the star in my avatar
The studs are 18 lb/ft. The nuts are tightened in two stages in a certain pattern. Stage 1 is 18 lb-ft and stage 2 is 24 lb-ft.
Installation
The right side is the same procedure, except it's on the right side. 
The system won't let me show you the pic, so use your imagination. Looking at the manifold, notice 8 nuts on studs. Number those 8 nuts as follows
5 1 3 7
8 2 4 6
Then tighten them in numerical order, from 1 thru 8, the first time to 18 lb/ft and the second time to 24 lb/ft
Originally Posted by 2011 5.0L workshop manual
Installation
- Clean and inspect the LH exhaust manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00 .
- NOTICE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces. Clean the exhaust manifold mating surface of the cylinder head with metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
- Install 8 new LH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install new gaskets, the LH exhaust manifold and 8 new nuts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 32 Nm (24 lb-ft).
- Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
The system won't let me show you the pic, so use your imagination. Looking at the manifold, notice 8 nuts on studs. Number those 8 nuts as follows
5 1 3 7
8 2 4 6
Then tighten them in numerical order, from 1 thru 8, the first time to 18 lb/ft and the second time to 24 lb/ft
Thread Starter
Allabout5.0
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 120
Likes: 11
From: Houston
Thanks Smokey! I was only able to get a torque wrench to a few of the bolts unfortunately. That passenger side was a PITA!! Had to go by feel for the ones I couldn't reach. I've driven it 50 miles so far and no issues. I'll probably check on them this weekend when they're cold to make sure none have backed off.
Thread Starter
Allabout5.0
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 120
Likes: 11
From: Houston
As far as the headers are concerned the driver's side was pretty easy. The only bolt that was a pain was the lower front bolt on that side. I had to use several extensions and a swivel to reach that one. I was able to leave three of the studs in and still have room to mate the header to the head. That helped a lot when it came to installing the headers with a gasket.
The passenger side was truly a pain in the ***! Like I said above I also installed a Boss 302 intake. Which if I knew then what I know now I would have done that after the headers and not before. The clearance between the cowl and top of the Boss 302 is next to nothing so jacking the engine up would have only gained me 1/2" probably. Even though 1/2" would have helped I decided to try and do it without. It can be done but there are three bolts that are a PAIN and like the driver's side the lower front bolt was the biggest PITA. I had to use almost every extension I had and a swivel again to get to it. I had a 1/2" 15mm deep socket, 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, 3/8" swivel, (3) 3" extensions and a 6" extension. All the studs had to come out on that side which are 8mm stars so lining up headers with the gasket with nothing as a guide took some patience. Started with the lower rear, then went to the top and using a extended mirror was able to line up gasket with header with hole so not to cross thread anything. Oh, and you have to remove the starter but that's no big deal.
The passenger side was truly a pain in the ***! Like I said above I also installed a Boss 302 intake. Which if I knew then what I know now I would have done that after the headers and not before. The clearance between the cowl and top of the Boss 302 is next to nothing so jacking the engine up would have only gained me 1/2" probably. Even though 1/2" would have helped I decided to try and do it without. It can be done but there are three bolts that are a PAIN and like the driver's side the lower front bolt was the biggest PITA. I had to use almost every extension I had and a swivel again to get to it. I had a 1/2" 15mm deep socket, 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, 3/8" swivel, (3) 3" extensions and a 6" extension. All the studs had to come out on that side which are 8mm stars so lining up headers with the gasket with nothing as a guide took some patience. Started with the lower rear, then went to the top and using a extended mirror was able to line up gasket with header with hole so not to cross thread anything. Oh, and you have to remove the starter but that's no big deal.
Member
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 43
Likes: 4
From: Houston
As far as the headers are concerned the driver's side was pretty easy. The only bolt that was a pain was the lower front bolt on that side. I had to use several extensions and a swivel to reach that one. I was able to leave three of the studs in and still have room to mate the header to the head. That helped a lot when it came to installing the headers with a gasket.
The passenger side was truly a pain in the ***! Like I said above I also installed a Boss 302 intake. Which if I knew then what I know now I would have done that after the headers and not before. The clearance between the cowl and top of the Boss 302 is next to nothing so jacking the engine up would have only gained me 1/2" probably. Even though 1/2" would have helped I decided to try and do it without. It can be done but there are three bolts that are a PAIN and like the driver's side the lower front bolt was the biggest PITA. I had to use almost every extension I had and a swivel again to get to it. I had a 1/2" 15mm deep socket, 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, 3/8" swivel, (3) 3" extensions and a 6" extension. All the studs had to come out on that side which are 8mm stars so lining up headers with the gasket with nothing as a guide took some patience. Started with the lower rear, then went to the top and using a extended mirror was able to line up gasket with header with hole so not to cross thread anything. Oh, and you have to remove the starter but that's no big deal.
The passenger side was truly a pain in the ***! Like I said above I also installed a Boss 302 intake. Which if I knew then what I know now I would have done that after the headers and not before. The clearance between the cowl and top of the Boss 302 is next to nothing so jacking the engine up would have only gained me 1/2" probably. Even though 1/2" would have helped I decided to try and do it without. It can be done but there are three bolts that are a PAIN and like the driver's side the lower front bolt was the biggest PITA. I had to use almost every extension I had and a swivel again to get to it. I had a 1/2" 15mm deep socket, 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, 3/8" swivel, (3) 3" extensions and a 6" extension. All the studs had to come out on that side which are 8mm stars so lining up headers with the gasket with nothing as a guide took some patience. Started with the lower rear, then went to the top and using a extended mirror was able to line up gasket with header with hole so not to cross thread anything. Oh, and you have to remove the starter but that's no big deal.
So you didn't have to raise the motor, transfer case or trans? Remove skid plates,heat shields, drive shaft, or cross member? I just ask because my stainless works installation instructions say i'll have to do all that during installation.
-Thanks