Any tips on replacing the 5.0 cylinder head temperature sensor? I see the book says to pull the intake manifold, but multiple videos show it being replaced through the right side wheel well.

Maybe my hands are too big, because I had a difficult time trying to reach the sensor.

So, how did you replace the CHT sensor?

Thanks

 

Started back up on the cylinder head temperature sensor replacement today. Looking at videos, I think the 2015 and up 5.0 has more room, due to the exhaust manifold design, than the 2014 5.0.

The only way for me to get my hand up in there, was to remove a heat shield and cut off a standoff on the back of the head. I don’t know what the threaded standoff was for, but I haven’t needed it for 12 years and won’t miss it. Yes, it’s crude, but it worked.

Once I had that done, I had a lot more room and replaced the cylinder head temperature sensor and crank position sensor.

I’ll replace the crank position sensor pigtail, engine to body ground, and verify it runs correctly, then install the inner wheel liner.

Hopefully, I won’t have any more overheating issues*.

*I replaced the entire cooling system and fans last summer. The CHT sensor is the only part of the cooling system I did not replace.

 

On our 2014 5.0L the only reasonable way is to remove the intake manifold.

USE ONLY THE MOTORCRAFT SENSOR.

The ones available from Advance Auto, etc. are not to specs, so, they are basically junk. The same with the Motorrad thermostat. The Advance Auto sensors do not correctly read/scale (I tested them against new OEM) in 90 degree air and in heated water AND they are literally physically different, inserted length is different, tip is different, as per the pictures I posted elsewhere.

Consider replacing the harness too, I think that is where the bad sensor readings show up.




F-150 2014 5.0L temperature sensor, Ford on right side

 

I used the Motorcraft sensor* and have a new wiring harness on order. In the meantime, I’m splicing in a pigtail for the crank position sensor, as I broke it.

* Bought the CHT and crank position sensors from the dealer, as there’s so many counterfeit parts out there. I’m starting to do this more and more now.

 

OEM for sure, it's hard enough doing the work once.