35's and 3.55's
05-28-2014, 06:51 PM
#51
I'm going with either the BFG AT in a 285/65R20 (34.7x11.8) or the Toyo AT2 in 295/65R20 (35.1X11.8). Both arent much heavier than stock and I feel like a subtle loss of 1.5-2.0 MPG may be lost at max.
05-28-2014, 08:40 PM
#52
Member
Kind of 35's are you getting rid of?
05-29-2014, 12:54 PM
#54
Just gears for the front diff from ring pinion.com are about 320 then go ahead and add shipping. Then depending on where you live installation can range any where. You can keep your cheaper 200 dollar gears I'll go with Yukon if and when the time comes. And why the Hell would you not install a rebuild kit while you are in there. I think some of you may not know what you're talking about.
Cheaper gears?! haha buddy they're factory ford gears.
you have no clue man, ive regeared my last two trucks and never payed more than $180 per diff for ring/pinion WITH YUKON AND USA STANDARD gears
05-29-2014, 10:15 PM
#55
Senior Member
This is an interesting thread.
I have to agree with some although I don't have a 4x4. I have a 2 wheel drive with 305/40R22s that weigh in at 100 pounds each with a 5.0 and 3:55 gears. Without the tuner the truck would be almost undrivable. My milage has sucked since I bought the truck. The problem I have is I only had the factory wheels for 2 days before swapping my aftermarket wheels on. The larger and much heavier wheels make a big difference.
I am seriously thinking 3:73s would be much better for my setup but wonder if 4:10s would be better.
I have to agree with some although I don't have a 4x4. I have a 2 wheel drive with 305/40R22s that weigh in at 100 pounds each with a 5.0 and 3:55 gears. Without the tuner the truck would be almost undrivable. My milage has sucked since I bought the truck. The problem I have is I only had the factory wheels for 2 days before swapping my aftermarket wheels on. The larger and much heavier wheels make a big difference.
I am seriously thinking 3:73s would be much better for my setup but wonder if 4:10s would be better.
05-30-2014, 01:28 AM
#56
Senior Member
05-30-2014, 02:01 AM
#57
06-03-2014, 12:44 AM
#58
Here let me help you because you're obviously confused.... you're looking at 2010 and down when you need to be looking at 2011 and up... its okay not everyone pays attention to detail high speed. Just like my brand new LT's in the army this NCO will square you away....
And that is just for the Rear Diff... so tell me how I dont know what im talking about again? Oh btw i use to be a Wheeled Mechanic in the Army now i work on Unmanned Airplanes. So im no idiot when it comes to mechanics.
And that is just for the Rear Diff... so tell me how I dont know what im talking about again? Oh btw i use to be a Wheeled Mechanic in the Army now i work on Unmanned Airplanes. So im no idiot when it comes to mechanics.
06-03-2014, 04:31 PM
#59
Well I'll put my .2 in........ I bought a 5.0 crew cab 4wd with 3.55 gears last month. I put around 900 miles on it stock. It was staying around 15.2-15.3mpg's on the dash. 2 weeks ago I switched to 20x9 BMF's with 295-60 Nitto Trail Grapplers and it's staying around 13.8-13.9mpg's now. The truck now has 1660 miles. It's no pig by any means. It's not un-drivable by any means lol. Seems to run fine. It's not blessed with power but wasn't in the first place. I pulled a 24ft pontoon boat this weekend with no problems. I prob will buy a tuner just to get the speedo right and adjust the shift points. When I want more power I'll add a blower and be done. As of right now it's fine in my book. I will say it runs a lot better than my 08 crew cab gmc with 33's did lol.