2013 XLT Crew Stereo Upgrade
06-25-2014, 08:06 AM
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2013 XLT Crew Stereo Upgrade
I recently upgraded from my 2008 XL regular cab to a 2013 XLT Super Crew. After a few months of suffering with the terrible sound of the factory system in the new truck, I have decided it’s time to upgrade the stereo system. My first try was to replace the factory head with a Kenwood DDX270 using the Maestro RR interface box. It helped a little but not nearly as much as I would have liked.
I decided to go for the Kenwood / Maestro in order to keep the sync and steering controls. Once I got it wired up correctly the system works pretty good. Super helpful support from the Maestro factory. It took 2 phone calls but they held my hand through it. I got the lower end Kenwood head and am using the Bluetooth from Sync.
These are the components I used:
Maestro RR Ford Sync adaptor
Kenwood DDX271 head
Infinity Kappa 682.11 Rear Speakers
Infinity Kappa 680.9 Front Component Speakers
Kicker CVR104 10” Sub
Fox Acoustics F150-SC-11—V-09 Sub box
NVX MVPA1 300W Mono Amp for Sub
Pioneer GMD9500F Amp for Mains
Monster 4 connector RCA for the Mains
Kicker 2 connector RCA for the Sub
I used 12 gage wires for what I added. (If I had known I was going to have to use the factory wires for the speakers I would have used 16 or 18 gage since that’s what the factory wires look like).
I completed the installation over the weekend. There were a couple of issues that I think should be noted by anyone doing this. First is that the front door speaker depth is pretty shallow. I ended up having to use 3/8” standoffs to keep the Infinity Kappa speakers from interfering with the windows. The good news is there is plenty of room between the door frame and the interior door cover so once I got the speakers clearanced from the back they fit fine. I ended up using some ½”- 13 nuts as standoffs since I had some laying in my toolbox.
The second issue is wiring the speakers in both the front and rear doors. When I did the stereo in my 08 F150 there was access to the doors through the rubber tubing that runs between the car body and the door. In the 2013 the rubber tube terminates in a connector / plug. There is not any access to run larger wires into the door without drilling and adding a 2nd rubber access tube. I chose to not drill so I just ran my speaker wires from the amp to the back of the stereo and accessed the speaker wires there and used the factory wires. The factory wires are pretty small and I wasn’t overly fired up to use them but I just had no interest in drilling holes in the doors.
I used the rear seat mount bolt to make the negative connection but note that the bolt was coated in something non-conductive so I had to take the bolt to the grinder and use the wire wheel to remove the coating so it would make the electrical connection.
Fitting the tweeters into the A pillars wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be. I just used a dremel tool with some sandpaper attached and slowly opened the holes. The Infinity tweeters press fit in the holes real nice once they were opened up. There was no need to attach them any other way. They just pressed in and kind of snapped into place. Just open the holes a little at a time until you can just press them through and it works good.
Other than that it was all pretty straight forward. I got some of the components from Crutchfield and I have to admit having the trim dis-assembly instructions that Crutchfield supplied saved me a lot of headaches.
When I turned it all on I was well pleased with how it all sounds. The components seem to work well together. I set the gain on the little subwoofer amp to ¼ and it had the windows rattling so I had to dial it back. Don’t let the size of that amp fool you it has plenty of power.
If I was to do it again I would get the small 4 channel amp to match the NVX mono amp and mount them both under the dash since you have to use the factory wires behind the head unit. It would be a much cleaner installation.
I decided to go for the Kenwood / Maestro in order to keep the sync and steering controls. Once I got it wired up correctly the system works pretty good. Super helpful support from the Maestro factory. It took 2 phone calls but they held my hand through it. I got the lower end Kenwood head and am using the Bluetooth from Sync.
These are the components I used:
Maestro RR Ford Sync adaptor
Kenwood DDX271 head
Infinity Kappa 682.11 Rear Speakers
Infinity Kappa 680.9 Front Component Speakers
Kicker CVR104 10” Sub
Fox Acoustics F150-SC-11—V-09 Sub box
NVX MVPA1 300W Mono Amp for Sub
Pioneer GMD9500F Amp for Mains
Monster 4 connector RCA for the Mains
Kicker 2 connector RCA for the Sub
I used 12 gage wires for what I added. (If I had known I was going to have to use the factory wires for the speakers I would have used 16 or 18 gage since that’s what the factory wires look like).
I completed the installation over the weekend. There were a couple of issues that I think should be noted by anyone doing this. First is that the front door speaker depth is pretty shallow. I ended up having to use 3/8” standoffs to keep the Infinity Kappa speakers from interfering with the windows. The good news is there is plenty of room between the door frame and the interior door cover so once I got the speakers clearanced from the back they fit fine. I ended up using some ½”- 13 nuts as standoffs since I had some laying in my toolbox.
The second issue is wiring the speakers in both the front and rear doors. When I did the stereo in my 08 F150 there was access to the doors through the rubber tubing that runs between the car body and the door. In the 2013 the rubber tube terminates in a connector / plug. There is not any access to run larger wires into the door without drilling and adding a 2nd rubber access tube. I chose to not drill so I just ran my speaker wires from the amp to the back of the stereo and accessed the speaker wires there and used the factory wires. The factory wires are pretty small and I wasn’t overly fired up to use them but I just had no interest in drilling holes in the doors.
I used the rear seat mount bolt to make the negative connection but note that the bolt was coated in something non-conductive so I had to take the bolt to the grinder and use the wire wheel to remove the coating so it would make the electrical connection.
Fitting the tweeters into the A pillars wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be. I just used a dremel tool with some sandpaper attached and slowly opened the holes. The Infinity tweeters press fit in the holes real nice once they were opened up. There was no need to attach them any other way. They just pressed in and kind of snapped into place. Just open the holes a little at a time until you can just press them through and it works good.
Other than that it was all pretty straight forward. I got some of the components from Crutchfield and I have to admit having the trim dis-assembly instructions that Crutchfield supplied saved me a lot of headaches.
When I turned it all on I was well pleased with how it all sounds. The components seem to work well together. I set the gain on the little subwoofer amp to ¼ and it had the windows rattling so I had to dial it back. Don’t let the size of that amp fool you it has plenty of power.
If I was to do it again I would get the small 4 channel amp to match the NVX mono amp and mount them both under the dash since you have to use the factory wires behind the head unit. It would be a much cleaner installation.
06-25-2014, 11:16 AM
#2
Sounds nice. A few things though.
I believe you could have drilled holes through the! Molex for your speaker wire to the doors.
If I'm understanding correctly you used nuts to space your mids out from the door? So they are just hanging there in space not sealed to the door? If so, you really should cut some adapter plates/spacers for them. I like to use plastic cutting boards to make these as the plastic doesn't react to moisture like wood does.
I believe you could have drilled holes through the! Molex for your speaker wire to the doors.
If I'm understanding correctly you used nuts to space your mids out from the door? So they are just hanging there in space not sealed to the door? If so, you really should cut some adapter plates/spacers for them. I like to use plastic cutting boards to make these as the plastic doesn't react to moisture like wood does.
The following users liked this post:
bcini (06-25-2014)
06-25-2014, 07:17 PM
#6
did you have the 4.2 (iirc) display?
I have been kicking around the idea of using a NAV bezel and an aftermarket head unit because I dont really like the current model radio and there is only 1 affordable kit for it as far as i know, but it looks sub par imo
I have been kicking around the idea of using a NAV bezel and an aftermarket head unit because I dont really like the current model radio and there is only 1 affordable kit for it as far as i know, but it looks sub par imo
06-25-2014, 10:03 PM
#7
Senior Member
Pics!
I'm thinking of using the same head unit, or similar.
Pics!
I'm thinking of using the same head unit, or similar.
Pics!
