jsmiller

Good Evening

I have a 2013 Ford F-150 XLT that was purchased brand new. Truck currently has 22,000 miles on it. I have had it in the shop three times since owning it due to a dead battery.

The battery seems to consistently die but at random times. The recent time that it died, i took it on a trip of 90 miles parked it at 8:00 PM on a Saturday, went to start it at 7:00 AM on a sunday - completely dead. The dash lights wouldn't even come on. This is pretty consistent with what it does when the issue occurs.

I have verified i didn't leave any lights or have anything plugged in to any 12V outlets.

The dealership i bought it from is pretty much useless at this point. Every time I take it in, they simply keep it for a few days, put a new battery in and send me on my way.

They have currently had my truck for 3 weeks now. I called and they said they put a new battery in. After explaining that i don't feel the battery is the issue since this is the 3rd battery they have put in, they basically told me to come pick the truck up. My concern is that my factory warranty expires in July of this year. After asking what they would do for me if i have the issue in another 3 or 6 months, they told me there is essentially nothing they can do after the warranty expires.

Anyone have any advice? I'm stuck with a truck with only 22,000 miles that is not reliable and the dealership is doing nothing to fix the issue.

RLXXI

My 13 battery dropped dead at year 1, I replaced it with a wally world battery 2 years ago and it's still kicking, I did however make one modification that's probably keeping it alive.





There are no less than 15 computer modules in my truck, trim level will dictate how many each truck has, some have more, some have less, they all draw a minut amount of current 24/7/365 and a poorly made battery can't keep up. The charging system these trucks have are also computer controlled so the alternator is not always charging like older vehicles.

This link will take you to the technology behind the solar panel that's putting back what those computer modules suck out, it's only 2W but it's enough.
http://www.pulsetech.net/

P.S. Guess I should provide a more direct link, it's kind of hidden on that website, http://www.pulsetech.net/SP2-SolarPu...Watt-7297.aspx
.

Ricktwuhk

Some seem to have a parasitic draw that Ford cannot diagnose. I had the battery warning message off and on, often it sits for a week. Bought a Deltran Battery Tender, a 12.5 foot extension, and ran it to the left front wheel well. I plug it in if I don't drive it every day or two. No more message. I didn't go the solar route because it's garaged all the time.

ji603

OP- do your gear indicator (PRND123) stay illuminated with the key out and engine off? If so, the gear indicator sensor isn't working and causes the draw killing your battery. If u have a remote start, does it still work? If the dash lights are on, the remote start won't work because the truck doesn't see the ground to Park.

I've also read of guys who have a loose ignition cylinder causing this

IAJack

This seems like cool idea and I wonder if it would work for all those having trouble with the battery saver issue.

I assume this is just wired to the battery?

Where did you mount the control bx and does it act as a battery tender or just a constant trickle charger.

Did you use silicone to mount it to the tray or standoffs in the corner holes

Tothemax

I have one of those on my work car. I put it on there to help keep an old dieing battery topped off.

I don't remember the brand but it was but install is a breeze. Put the panel where you have a flat surface and run the wire to the engine bay. Mount the excess wire and the module close to the battery, + and - wire on the battery and your done.

On my car its mounted on the trunk lid. On my duramax I had it on the roof. If I ever get one for my Ford I will mount it on the roof towards the rear of the truck.

150ECO

I bookmarked this thread awhile back, maybe it will help


https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2013-f...0-dead-275735/

RLXXI

Yes it's directly connected to the battery. The description of operation is on the product page. http://www.pulsetech.net/SP2-SolarPu...Watt-7297.aspx

Ctrl bx is mounted to the firewall just to the left of the pcm using double backed tape.





The panel itself is attached to the tray with Velcro. You have to cut and splice the cable to get the wires thru the tray.




.