I have a 2013 and I get an occasion rough idle. I only have 3500 miles, so we'll see.
I have also noticed some slight bogging during low-rpm, slow acceleration usually between 30-45 mph. But then I floor it and it's great, so I'm confused. |
Rock auto tells me that the 5.0 takes NGK iridium IX 6509, or #LTR6IX11.
Has anyone tried these? JD |
Someone commented about a smaller gap on the 11. Be careful what source you use for determining the gap as the owners guide shows a smaller gap than the service manual does. The service manual matches the info posted in this thread and the stock replacement plugs are gapped in that same .049-.051 range. I believe the owners guide has incorrect info. My 11 runs great at .051
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I pulled all the plugs and replaced them with NGK 6509. They are gapped from the factory at .044. I left them like that at install. I have only driven to work. It idles fine. There is no shutter at 50-55 any longer. I will follow up in a week or so.
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Originally Posted by Jake's Dad
(Post 3292376)
I pulled all the plugs and replaced them with NGK 6509. They are gapped from the factory at .044. I left them like that at install. I have only driven to work. It idles fine. There is no shutter at 50-55 any longer. I will follow up in a week or so.
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I'm still trying to figure out why y'all are saying don't use anti-seize? Did anyone else have issues getting the stock plugs out of their heads? Mine kept getting hung up trying to get them out. I used anti-seize when I put my stock plugs back in and they slid in like glass. I've been using anti-seize on aluminum headed vehicles for years with no problems. I don't see why it is now all the sudden a problem.
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bsrobins - I'm still trying to figure out why y'all are saying don't use anti-seize? Did anyone else have issues getting the stock plugs out of their heads? Mine kept getting hung up trying to get them out. I used anti-seize when I put my stock plugs back in and they slid in like glass. I've been using anti-seize on aluminum headed vehicles for years with no problems. I don't see why it is now all the sudden a problem. The only problems that I've seen with anti-seize were caused by slathering the threads with it. . |
Originally Posted by bsrobins
(Post 3299171)
I'm still trying to figure out why y'all are saying don't use anti-seize? Did anyone else have issues getting the stock plugs out of their heads? Mine kept getting hung up trying to get them out. I used anti-seize when I put my stock plugs back in and they slid in like glass. I've been using anti-seize on aluminum headed vehicles for years with no problems. I don't see why it is now all the sudden a problem.
Wellsir - in a nutshell, a nickel-plated plug, like most other MC's we use, is not reactive within an aluminum head. So - according to Ford, and a passel of EX-Ford experts, it is not necessary. Having said that I, Like a few others still apply a teensy-weensy amount, and adjust torque accordingly. And ol' Joe is right - don't dip the dang threads in the can of A/S, lol. The issue is a lot of others do NOT account fer the tq adjustment necessary and end up over-torquing and/or apply it like they're basting a rack o' baby-backs :D These things need changed at 60K (or sooner) intervals anyway, so installing them dry at the proper tq will not present an issue at removal. I've done it both ways - made no substantive difference to me. In the 'olden days' fer all you geezers out there (like me), we did not HAVE nickel-plated plugs, so A/S was mandatory. All kinds o' dissimilar metals doggerel. A good reference - repost probably - cain't remember - geezer, aight? ==> http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php And another one - these are the EX-Ford folks I mentioned above - Refer to FAQ's # 51 and #52. http://blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm#Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs Anyhoo, That be me story'n ah'm a'stickin' to 'er :) Good luck fellas |
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