2013 5.0 - Need help with plugs.
 

I am going to bite the bullet and try to resolve my shuddering at idle,
and shuddering at 50-55 MPH by installing new iridium plugs. Yeah, I know, I have a "warranty" but after 3 dealerships telling me it was normal running behavior I am conceding. But I need
some help from y'all. I drive a 2013 XLT 5.0.


1). What is the model of the NGK Iridiums I need? I can't find anything
out there.


2). Being iridium plugs, can I gap them?


3). Is a wire gap tool best?


4). What is the proper gap for a 5.0?


5). Do I have easy access to all the plugs? My 2001 5.4 was not easy for
me as I had to remove fuel lines, etc - so I had my mechanic do it.
Appreciate your help.


JD

I'd like some info on this as well.

Glad I'm not the only one!

Definitely not the only one. I tried searching, but didn't come up with anything.

If you're near Atlanta, I'd be interested in helping.

I did some searching for my truck and to list some 5.0L Spark plugs on our site and didn't come up with anything. Ford says the factory plugs are good to 100K. So maybe we should look at stock plugs with a consistent gap. I would image that would be around 030-032 gap, but maybe someone else knows without guessing.

https://www.f150forum.com/f70/5-0-sp...ug-gap-212440/

Stay stock - Iridiums will not solve this.

good luck

The stockers look like Iridiums....at least in that post.

Yup.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3435&ppt=C0334

Very easy to get to them. Wire gap tool is the best. Not sure on gap or part numbers

After reading through the thread that MGD linked, it looks like your next step should be to check the gap on your existing plugs.

Roger that. Will this weekend and report.

Hmmmm ....Don't think so..

Finewire Platinum. Supercedes SP-512

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3001419

I believe the SP-534's are iridium though ...

I'll trust Rockauto over o'Really?'s all day long.

So - as stated - adjust the gap.

good luck

Am I missing something here? I thought your Motorcraft P/N would be SP-519

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...rd&model=F-150

I called my local ford dealership to get the model number of the motorcraft plug and googled it, pulled up the O'Reilly's link just to share with everyone.

...by the way the part number Ford gave me for the plugs for 5.0 is CYFS12Y.

However, I can't find a cross reference for that plug for NGK.

Maybe they aren't out yet.

JD

I've regapped mine about a year ago. The 2 plugs closest to the firewall are the hardest plugs to remove. I ended up having to buy a shorter extension for my socket wrench but after that I was good to go. The plug gap can be found in your owner's manual. They are pretty easy to remove and install. I also suggest using a torque wrench to install them since I've heard you do not want to over tighten them.

Use a good torque wrench and torque properly (sorry I don't know the torque setting).
Too tight and you can strip the head. Not tight enough, and the plugs can back out while driving, this is not good and is expensive to repair.

Also, don't use anti seize on the threads, it changes the torque readings.

While true that anti-seize will have an effect on the torque value, not using it can be a recipe for disaster.

I would imagine that the torque values given are lubricated values.

My opinion is that anti seize is ok with a good torque wrench. Using a cheapo wrench may lead to over tightening since they tend to be slow to react in my experience.

I would like to amend my statement. The older (like my 5.4 in my ex-98) spec'd a plug with a nickle coating that would not seize. And they also spec'd that no anti-seize was to be used.

This engine may be different with regards to the anti-seize.

I have not found what the perfect torque setting is for this engine.
Anyone know?

Hi.

All the Motortcraft plugs spec'd for these engines have nickel-plated plug bodies. That has not changed.

The factory installs them dry.

As for torque, the most common figure I keep seeing is 25ft-lbs DRY.

Whether or not you elect to use a tiny bit of hi-temp nickel anti-seize is up to you - just reduce torque by the usual factor (~50%).

Refer to: http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

Nickel does not react with aluminum.

MGD

double post

Nice chart on that link.
It looks like the Motorcraft SP-519

• Iridium
• Ford Service # CYFS-12Y
• Hex Size (In): 5/8 Inch
• Seat: Tapered
• Thread Size: 14mm

According to that chart, 7-15 ft/lbs

It appears that some of the EB guys are using a torque setting of 133 in/lbs (~11 ft/lbs).

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/836/nwap.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/547/l8ry.jpg

I wouldn't use any anti seize either.

.
.

Nice find. 124 in/lbs or ~10.33 ft/lbs

Thanks

Hi.

Yes it does - I wonder how conservative that figure is. The 3V 's were 25-28 ft-lbs dry.

So - have we confirmed that an SP-519 is iridium and not fine-wire platinum? Should say 'Iridium' on the box and and on the plug.

Man - the info on this is all over the map :D

EDIT - ahhh... just saw Rnlcomp's post - nice!

MGD

My post above is direct copy/paste from 2013 shop service manual, same manual Ford tech's use at the dealer.

.

Yep. Saw that after I posted. Thanks.

MGD

I think the setting for my old 5.4 was 11-14 then was revised to 28 when they had issues of spitting sparkplugs out.

True on the info.

I'm curious. Why no anti-seize on the plugs?

The nickel plating is enough when combining 2 different metals under torque. Steel plug, aluminum head, the plating is all that's needed, anti seize or anything else will alter torque values as well as heat/cool expansion rates for the different metals.

DON'T DO IT!!!!

.

I see. Didn't realize the stock plugs had a nickel coating on the threads. Thanks for the heads up.

So there is another thread covering some of this and it leaves me with a question... Some have set their plugs to .45 and that seems to help.

That falls in the 2011 spec for the 5.0 but clearly out of the 2013 spec. I have this issue (no lights or anything a scanner would pull---little bit of what I think is a rough idle) but am debating where to go....

Shoot me your vin# and I'll see if there are any tsb's for the symptoms you are experiencing.

.

Wanted to chime in, I am having the same issue. I have taken it to the dealer, but naturally it was smooth as glass when they drove it.

If this is indeed true, shouldn't we all lean toward the newer specification? It's almost like they fine tuned the gap size over the years.

'

I have had this problem for over a year now with no resolution. I have a 2013 5.0 xlt and have been to the dealer three times with no help from them they seem to think it is normal but I have a 2012 that is smooth as glass. I pulled my plugs after the third trip to the dealer and found the factory gaps all over the place but mostly within limits. I set my plugs to the same gap and it was no help. I was talking to a gentilman on here that had the same problem and it ended up being the piston rings not seated properly. His engine needed a full rebuild the last I talked with him. He sort of dropped off the map and never responded to my messages anymore so I never got the details.

That is really a shame because I would really like more information on this.

As far as yours goes, do you only have the rough idle? Or do you have problems at higher speeds as well. I am only experiencing problems at an idle, regardless of engine speed or quality of fuel used.

My truck only does it at idle regardless of type of fuel. My 2012 model dose not do this its smooth.

Oh ok, so SP-528 is also CYFS12Y3. Sorry I'm late catching on...

I have a 2013 and I get an occasion rough idle. I only have 3500 miles, so we'll see.

I have also noticed some slight bogging during low-rpm, slow acceleration usually between 30-45 mph. But then I floor it and it's great, so I'm confused.

Rock auto tells me that the 5.0 takes NGK iridium IX 6509, or #LTR6IX11.

Has anyone tried these?

JD

Someone commented about a smaller gap on the 11. Be careful what source you use for determining the gap as the owners guide shows a smaller gap than the service manual does. The service manual matches the info posted in this thread and the stock replacement plugs are gapped in that same .049-.051 range. I believe the owners guide has incorrect info. My 11 runs great at .051

I pulled all the plugs and replaced them with NGK 6509. They are gapped from the factory at .044. I left them like that at install. I have only driven to work. It idles fine. There is no shutter at 50-55 any longer. I will follow up in a week or so.

Still running good. I thought about doing the same but those plugs aren't cheap and mine only has 25,000 miles on them. Mine only dose it at idle and I'm skeptical about it being the plugs seems as though it shouldve thrown a misfire code if it was the plugs.

I'm still trying to figure out why y'all are saying don't use anti-seize? Did anyone else have issues getting the stock plugs out of their heads? Mine kept getting hung up trying to get them out. I used anti-seize when I put my stock plugs back in and they slid in like glass. I've been using anti-seize on aluminum headed vehicles for years with no problems. I don't see why it is now all the sudden a problem.

+1

The only problems that I've seen with anti-seize were caused by slathering the threads with it.
.

Hi.

Wellsir - in a nutshell, a nickel-plated plug, like most other MC's we use, is not reactive within an aluminum head.

So - according to Ford, and a passel of EX-Ford experts, it is not necessary.

Having said that I, Like a few others still apply a teensy-weensy amount, and adjust torque accordingly. And ol' Joe is right - don't dip the dang threads in the can of A/S, lol.

The issue is a lot of others do NOT account fer the tq adjustment necessary and end up over-torquing and/or apply it like they're basting a rack o' baby-backs :D

These things need changed at 60K (or sooner) intervals anyway, so installing them dry at the proper tq will not present an issue at removal. I've done it both ways - made no substantive difference to me.

In the 'olden days' fer all you geezers out there (like me), we did not HAVE nickel-plated plugs, so A/S was mandatory. All kinds o' dissimilar metals doggerel.

A good reference - repost probably - cain't remember - geezer, aight?

==> http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

And another one - these are the EX-Ford folks I mentioned above - Refer to FAQ's # 51 and #52.

http://blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm#Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs

Anyhoo, That be me story'n ah'm a'stickin' to 'er :)

Good luck fellas