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2010 Ongoing IWE Problems

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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 09:26 AM
  #11  
Ottawavalleylad's Avatar
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jcowan, I'm interested to hear what you find. I'm in the exact same boat (exhaust leak etc). I have replaced the IWE actuators 4 times since truck was new, and the IWE solenoid once. I have verified that I have vacuum etc. (no detectable leak) but still engages accelerating and/or up hill etc.


Do you know if the 2009+ models have a vacuum reservoir, if so where? The 2004-2008 model with the same system have a reservoir that sometimes has a small leak.


Did you have any rough idle issues with your IWE issue?


Some members in the 2004-2008 forum, run new vacuum lines from the solenoid down to the actuators, bypassing the middle vacuum line that often leaks. I haven't tried this yet, but thinking about it.


I will post back if I find a solution. Right now its looking like new actuator on the drivers side, again. This is a very common issue on the 2009 and 10's and I'm hearing from some forum members that their 2015's have the same issues with their IWE's.


Good luck.
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 12:44 PM
  #12  
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Default Still having issues with grinding!

Similar to jcowan35...
I have replaced both actuators and installed all new vaccum hoses within the last week... Still making the noise when going up inclines at lower rpms. If I take my foot off accelerator it stops but then starts doing it again when back on the throttle... Next step I guess is to try the solenoid...
I'm fairly certain it has to be a vaccum leak, but where from since everything is new? I'll have to try looking for them check valves next to the manifold... Or possibly the vacuum box itself?
Let me know if you guys have any other ideas.. Driving me nuts.

2010 F-150 STX 4.6L 3V
58,600 miles
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 02:15 PM
  #13  
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I have a 2010 5.4 SCREW. There is a check valve with a T right under the IWE solenoid on the driver side firewall (it's blue and white/clear), you can pull it out easily. I was able to suck air both ways through it. Replaced it 3 months ago and haven't heard the noise again. The part was $13, my dealer invoice says part#AL3Z19A563A. This appears to have been an issue on the 04-08 trucks as well.
Attached Thumbnails 2010 Ongoing IWE Problems-2015-08-31-14.12.49.jpg  
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:12 PM
  #14  
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I had some time to double check the lines to see if they held vaccum as well as the vaccum box... They checked out.
However, I checked the main vaccum line that runs back behind the intake manifold. I attached the vaccum pump to the "T" in the line and started the truck. While idling it held a steady 20, I then took it for a drive and noticed that when accelerating or going up an incline, it dropped to WELL below 5 to 0... When I let off, it went right back up to 20..
Is this supposed to maintain a steady supply of 20? It's difficult to tell where that vaccum hose goes when it gets behind the manifold and underneath the hood cowel..
I've seen comments refering to check valves being in that hose but I can't find any.

Last edited by Loccijm195; Aug 31, 2015 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 02:31 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jcowan35
First post here...

I've done a lot of searching across these forums and many others that helped me isolate the noise I began hearing in my truck a few months ago and figure out that my IWE's were both shot, but I am still having occasional noises that sound like the IWE problem.

FYI:
2010 F-150 XTR
4.6L Engine
125 000 km
No engine mods, lift, or anthing


Here's what I have done so far:
-Replaced passenger side actuator (fixed 95% of the problem)

-vacuum tested all components from the solenoid to the wheels. Found driver side actuator also not holding vacuum.

- Replaced driver side actuator. Still hearing light grinding noise occasionally when under light load, usually climbing a hill at highway speeds

-Noticed dirt and rust inside vacuum lines. Replaced all lines from solenoid to both wheels.

-Replaced solenoid.

-Road tested and am still getting occasional grinding noise from front end under load, climbing hills.


I vacuum tested every component on its own, and then all connected together. The system will hold 20in vacuum all day with no losses, so I am convinced my issue is not directly within the IWE system. Has anyone had this problem? I can get rid of the noise by getting out of the throttle and it does not occur in 4wd. I am worried that if I don't find it soon I will destroy my brand new actuators.

I'm not a mechanic but I am wondering if any of the following could be the problem:

1) I know my passenger side exhaust manifold has 2 broken bolts. Could this be affecting engine vacuum? I have no symptoms of exhaust leaking from the manifold, no ticking at idle,etc. so I had planned to leave this alone until symptoms cropped up and got annoying.

2) Could it be catalytic converter rattle? Is this a known problem with these trucks, and would it show itself in the same way as IWE noise?

3) Could it be an issue with my intake manifold? I am running everything stock, no cold air intake or anything.

Any help is appreciated, I am running out of ideas (and patience). Thanks for the help
I'm having the exact same issue/issues on my 2010 ford f150 lariat 5.4 liter. Changed all of the same parts. And am still hearing grinding at speed. I let off the throttle and it stops. I think I'm going to re-check the passenger side auto hub again and see if it has went bad again. That's where the noise sounds like it's coming from.
I've checked the check valve under the solenoid and it's fine but, I can't find where the other check valve is.
any ideas?
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Old May 18, 2017 | 12:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by heydustin
check your vacuum check valves right off the motor. theres a blue and white one and black and gray... mine were shot and doing the same
Any way you can give some detail where these are at? Going through problems with vacuum to the IWEs. I have checked back to just before the solenoid. Vacuum holds at 22 until i accelerate, then it falls to below 5. Trying to find where my next checkpoint is.
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Old May 18, 2017 | 01:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Loccijm195
I had some time to double check the lines to see if they held vaccum as well as the vaccum box... They checked out.
However, I checked the main vaccum line that runs back behind the intake manifold. I attached the vaccum pump to the "T" in the line and started the truck. While idling it held a steady 20, I then took it for a drive and noticed that when accelerating or going up an incline, it dropped to WELL below 5 to 0... When I let off, it went right back up to 20..
Is this supposed to maintain a steady supply of 20? It's difficult to tell where that vaccum hose goes when it gets behind the manifold and underneath the hood cowel..
I've seen comments refering to check valves being in that hose but I can't find any.
I'm currently in the exact same predicament. Losing vacuum when accelerating and it comes right back when I get off the gas. Ive checked the line just before the solenoid on the intake manifold side with same results. Cant tell where the line goes from there. Did you find anything out with yours?
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Old May 18, 2017 | 02:06 PM
  #18  
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Default My fix

Originally Posted by benjammin1850
I'm currently in the exact same predicament. Losing vacuum when accelerating and it comes right back when I get off the gas. Ive checked the line just before the solenoid on the intake manifold side with same results. Cant tell where the line goes from there. Did you find anything out with yours?
I had same problem. Turned out to be the check valve. I could remove it and blow through it only one way. Thought it was good but, I went ahead and replaced it anyway.........
problem solved
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Old May 18, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BillyHo
I had same problem. Turned out to be the check valve. I could remove it and blow through it only one way. Thought it was good but, I went ahead and replaced it anyway.........
problem solved
I'm assuming you replaced the blue/white "T" one under the solenoid?
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Old May 18, 2017 | 03:19 PM
  #20  
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Default Blue/white T

Originally Posted by TimelessR1
I'm assuming you replaced the blue/white "T" one under the solenoid?
yep
that's the check valve. Took me forever to figure it out. I think it was around 10$ on Amazon.
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