I converted my 2010 XLT over from column shift to floor shift, installed the flow through console, dash trim etc. After completing the conversion my battery now has a parasitic draw around 500mA, so if it sits for 2 days or more it will not start. I ran wiring from the column to the floor shift unit, patching in the tow/haul control, brake shift interlock and the park detect switch. I spent about 3 hours yesterday, connected a meter and tested all the wires after the GEM went to sleep (still pulling around 500mA at 1 hour) and I was not seeing voltage on any wire related to the park detect, which was my suspicion of the culprit. I tried pulling most any fuse related to anything in the fuse box and could not find any drop in the draw. I tried unplugging the cluster also, thinking may because it is the XLT with the lights on it for the gear selector it may be drawing current - nothing, still held steady at 500mA with the cluster completely unplugged. I did see a code in Forscan for "transmission park detect circuit voltage out of range" but i tested the wire and saw no voltage with the key off. Has anyone successfully converted one from column to floor and possibly run across this issue? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Never seen anyone convert a column to floor shift but kudos to you… looks good. Do you remember a bunch of the console shift F150’s would have a dead battery because the microswitch in the shifter would never register P? And so the battery would drain overnight…

apparently there’s a park detect circuit that’s open/closed and I wonder if you could find that and ground it, if your parasitic draw would go away.

a few years ago there was a guy on ebay who sold upgraded/fixed console shift switches…

 

Any chance you still have the original setup? I have the floor shifter and console and am thinking about converting the other way.

 

I do have all the original parts, still trying to figure out the battery issue before getting rid of them.

 

I hate it's still giving you problems. Electrical issues are some of the hardest to diagnose. I saw you were looking for issues with the park switch. When you were unplugging stuff testing, did you unplug the shifter? Should be your tow/haul and your select shift. The new console should have also had two 12v and a 120v hook up. Probably would give you more than 500mA, but I'm just thinking of everything that's powered in there. You might also check if you pinched any wiring putting the new console in. If you've got powered seats, or your seatbelt tensioners. Especially for the jump seat since that would be an open circuit with it removed.