RC 6" vs 4" lift - differences
#1
RC 6" vs 4" lift - differences
I currently have the Rough Country 6 inch lift installed on my 2016 F150 with 35s. I am thinking about switching to a 4 inch lift with 33s. What is the difference between the 4 inch and 6 inch lift? On rough country's website, the parts look to be about the same with no specification as to what exactly is different. Where is the 2 inch made up? I like the current look but wouldn't mind having it a little lower to make it easier for my short wife to get in and out. And I don't to spend the money to re-gear, not that it's bad now, just would benefit from it.
2016 F150 screw, 5.0, 3.55s
2016 F150 screw, 5.0, 3.55s
#2
I'm not too familiar with Rough Country's lifts in particular, but I believe they're similar in design to my BDS. While there are other components involved and sized for the specific lift size, I believe the difference in height is mostly from the size of the lift block in the rear (the lift block sits between the axle and the leaf springs and provides the added height), and in the front, the size of the lift knuckles and strut spacer (along with associated brackets and hardware).
Do you already have running boards, I'm assuming? Maybe power running boards or something might be less expensive than trying to change the lift height?
Do you already have running boards, I'm assuming? Maybe power running boards or something might be less expensive than trying to change the lift height?
#3
I've got the factory running boards. I've thought about power ones but honestly would spend the money elsewhere, like regearing. If the difference in height for the front was something as simple as strut spacers, that would be great. But if I had to basically redo the whole lift, I'll leave it at 6".
#4
You wouldn't have to re-do the whole thing, but it's likely more complicated than just swapping out the strut spacers. Like you said, you probably do better spending the money elsewhere.
BTW, if you do ever re-gear, you'll want to make a pretty big jump to make it worthwhile for the cost. You already have 3.55's so only going up a notch or two probably wouldn't make all that much a difference for the cost involved.
BTW, if you do ever re-gear, you'll want to make a pretty big jump to make it worthwhile for the cost. You already have 3.55's so only going up a notch or two probably wouldn't make all that much a difference for the cost involved.
#5
I just pulled the trigger on a 4" rough country. My understanding from all the vids I've watched is that the kits are identical outside of the rear block and front strut spacer. You should be able to call RC directly and they will sell you just those 2 pieces fairly cheap to get you down... Then you'll want an alignment and be set.
My dilemma is that I have fox coilovers installed and I'm debating keeping my 2" high and adding the 4" spacer for the 6" of lift up front. Question I'm wondering is if that will make me level with the block that comes from RC for the rear? Do I need to adjust down to 5"? Or should I buy a BDS or RC rear block for a 6" lift? I don't want squat and don't want rake... I want it level... if that means 4", 5" or 6" doesn't matter too much to me although my preference is to keep it under 5" due to convenience factors and that this is my DD and I drive downtown a lot.
My dilemma is that I have fox coilovers installed and I'm debating keeping my 2" high and adding the 4" spacer for the 6" of lift up front. Question I'm wondering is if that will make me level with the block that comes from RC for the rear? Do I need to adjust down to 5"? Or should I buy a BDS or RC rear block for a 6" lift? I don't want squat and don't want rake... I want it level... if that means 4", 5" or 6" doesn't matter too much to me although my preference is to keep it under 5" due to convenience factors and that this is my DD and I drive downtown a lot.
#6
Effin New Guys
Have you looked at pictures of that setup online? 33's with a 4" lift always looks odd.
I ran 33's with a 1.5" level and thought the wheels looked way too small.
I ran 33's with a 1.5" level and thought the wheels looked way too small.
#7
I think it depends on the 33" tire. If you're talking 285/70R18 for example I'd agree with you. If you mean 305/55R20 then I wouldn't.
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#8
Junior Member
I did the opposite of you, I had a 2 1/2" level lift on my 2011 with 24" tires. I installed the RC 4" and hated it as I actually lost ground clearance on the front end after the drop bracket and skidplate were installed.
So, I purchased the RC 6" lift strut and that is all that is needed for a 6" conversion. $230 and it is now a 6" lift. Also, the lift strut provides such an improved ride from the spacer.
So, I purchased the RC 6" lift strut and that is all that is needed for a 6" conversion. $230 and it is now a 6" lift. Also, the lift strut provides such an improved ride from the spacer.
#9
I did the opposite of you, I had a 2 1/2" level lift on my 2011 with 24" tires. I installed the RC 4" and hated it as I actually lost ground clearance on the front end after the drop bracket and skidplate were installed.
So, I purchased the RC 6" lift strut and that is all that is needed for a 6" conversion. $230 and it is now a 6" lift. Also, the lift strut provides such an improved ride from the spacer.
So, I purchased the RC 6" lift strut and that is all that is needed for a 6" conversion. $230 and it is now a 6" lift. Also, the lift strut provides such an improved ride from the spacer.
#10
Bumping this. I'm interested in getting a better ride from my 6" lift and going down to 4". Does anyone know of a 4" lift coilover I can just swap into the suspension? Or is a lift strut my best option?