Foulplay

I was 16 years old once. I learned that if you don't use a relay, your switches will literally melt.

dannytexas

We were all young and stupid once too but I give you credit for 1, asking the question first before burning down your truck or Mom's garage or house, 2 for trying to understand why so you are not just assuming everyone is right and lastly for taking all that information and doing it correctly.

After you work through wiring these lights with relays you will now be knowledgeable on the subject and moving forward you will know what and why to do it this way in the future to other accessories you hook-up.
You're actually a smart kid.

Kingofwylietx

I know you want to use your switches, but there are products out there that work wirelessly. I know of one that uses an app on your phone & Bluetooth. Some others have a switch panel you can mount anywhere and uses radio waves or Bluetooth to communicate to the power module. With these, you don't need to pass any wires through your firewall.

Lethal Weapon

That's fine..... BUT accessories STILL will require relays and running the electrical wires correctly to the relays and the unit.

As far as running wires thru the firewall.... that's about the only advantage a "wireless/Bluetooth" unit has.
The cost, the possible "interference" or glitchy radio waves...... I'd rather stick with what works.
There are 2 grommets on both sides of the firewall designed to cut a "nipple" to pass thru any accessory wiring.
Call me old fashioned.... but I'll stick with what works.
(I used to sell truck accessories for over 15 years and PIAA even had a wireless unit that you could use just for the exact reason... the customer went thru 4 different units... we finally hard wired them in & no issues).
Maybe technology changed & got better since then, but stick to the basics especially for the OP installation.
JMO

Kingofwylietx

The products I mentioned come with a 'box' that is mounted in the engine compartment. It has the receiver and all the relays built into it. No additional relays required. I posted that in case someone else comes along and reads the thread for advice hooking up accessories.

Yes, technology has gotten better, much better. And anyone that needs to search forums for how to wire up lights would probably be better off with one of these new hi-tech solutions.

I've been wiring up stuff for friends and customers for over 25 years. You've got some good experience too. So, as we know, it's not just about relays. Wire size must be considered, run length, along with switch ratings and electrical system output (not as much a concern today....but it was a BIG deal when everyone was in to KC's on their jacked up Toyotas with puny alternators).

My opinion, because I've seen that PIAA contraption....it didn't look worth its weight in salt.

The more info out there for folks to read, the better off they are.

Ford retired

I have a little different question.
We are snow birds and have a Dometic CFX-40W freezer that travels in our 2015 F150 truck bed of our as we drive back and forth.
I connect a cable (14 awg) from the trailer connector to a 12v battery (new) and to the Dometic.
With the engine running and headlights on, there is 12v at the trailer connector to charge the battery and run the Dometic
The current load of the Dometic, when running, is 7 amps DC and at 120 AC amps.
My problem is after 2 days, with over night hotel stops, the battery is running down and will not power the Dometic over night.
In a static test, I was able to power the Dometic for 27+ hours before the batter started to run down.
I sometimes run a connector from the cig plug in the back seat and no battery hocked up, to the Dometic and continual on our trip.
Been looking at the kits for the road LED wiring kits.
Will they be able to supply that much power for the Dometic?
If not, does someone have a better suggestion?

[size=13px]thank you[/size]