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157" truck on some more difficult trails?

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Old 01-25-2018, 08:47 PM
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Default 157" truck on some more difficult trails?

I've got my 2014 supercrew 6.5' bed and just never really considered doing much with it as far as lifts and what not because its so big. It handles like the Titantic through a field of icebergs(too soon?) and has such a big wheelbase. Does anyone take their 157 or 163" trucks down some decent trails, and how do they handle? Is it worth putting any money into it on decent coilovers and maybe some raptor leafs?
Old 01-25-2018, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mass-hole
I've got my 2014 supercrew 6.5' bed and just never really considered doing much with it as far as lifts and what not because its so big. It handles like the Titantic through a field of icebergs(too soon?) and has such a big wheelbase. Does anyone take their 157 or 163" trucks down some decent trails, and how do they handle? Is it worth putting any money into it on decent coilovers and maybe some raptor leafs?
If you are looking to improve handling, get some better shocks for the rear (Fox 2.0, Bilstein 5100) that won't break the bank, and put a Hellwig sway on the rear to reduce body roll. No, I don't think it's too soon for a Titanic analogy lol

It seems that CCLB and ECLB trucks aren't designed to be masters of the trail anyways so I earnestly believe the sway bar will be good for your truck. Dunno why you would want raptor leafs, the stock leafs are pretty strong.

I would get coilovers if you plan on putting more weight on the front end via a bumper. Otherwise decent shocks on the front would do the job for less. whoops forgot to read your sig, I guess if you've got them on all 4 corners and are still unimpressed, then it's time to drop the cash on coilovers
Old 01-26-2018, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by nubbins_
If you are looking to improve handling, get some better shocks for the rear (Fox 2.0, Bilstein 5100) that won't break the bank, and put a Hellwig sway on the rear to reduce body roll. No, I don't think it's too soon for a Titanic analogy lol

It seems that CCLB and ECLB trucks aren't designed to be masters of the trail anyways so I earnestly believe the sway bar will be good for your truck. Dunno why you would want raptor leafs, the stock leafs are pretty strong.

I would get coilovers if you plan on putting more weight on the front end via a bumper. Otherwise decent shocks on the front would do the job for less. whoops forgot to read your sig, I guess if you've got them on all 4 corners and are still unimpressed, then it's time to drop the cash on coilovers
First, if you're thinking of taking the "Titanic" on any trails, the last thing you want to do is reduce body roll. I've even taken my front sway bar off. What you want is suspension travel/flex. With a good set of coilovers, the sway bar(s) are just paper weights anyway. They are for street driving/towing.

Second, "strong" rear leafs is not the issue. No matter what brand truck you buy, the rear leafs (and all OEM shocks) are shot in about 25-35,000 miles. Look at an F150 with OEM rear springs and you'll notice that they almost always ride on the factory overload spring. Factory springs are steel spaghetti, little more (so are the UCAs). Don't waste your money buying cheap, then wishing you bought better, thus spending twice. Buy the best you can afford and cry only once.

Raptor leafs are the same as the regular F150s. If you're going to buy leafs that will rock your world, then buy Deavers or something. Pricey, but with an 11 leaf pack that is guaranteed never to sag, and rides amazingly, they're worth it.

Third, if you're not going to get too serious, you can get away with 2.0 coilovers and shocks. Lot of good brands out there. Fox has a few customer-satisfaction/timing issues (like a 16 week lead time), and Bilsteins are just plain disappointing. I had a set... for about 9,000 miles. I was so glad to get whole new coilovers. Think about it, the Bilsteins use the factory coil springs. That's 50% of your ride quality, and factory springs are junk. (you'll see what I mean if you get a proper set). I have BOSS (Halo) front coilovers, and I just ordered a set of King 2.5 for the rear (I overland/off road with 1200# of camping gear). I get into some serious stuff. Yes, I *only* have a 145" w.b., but it too is a "Queen Mary" on the trails. But I sure love seeing the Jeeper's jaws drop when I come up a trail they just struggled with.

HTH!
Old 01-26-2018, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by STingray1300
First, if you're thinking of taking the "Titanic" on any trails, the last thing you want to do is reduce body roll. I've even taken my front sway bar off. What you want is suspension travel/flex. With a good set of coilovers, the sway bar(s) are just paper weights anyway. They are for street driving/towing.

Second, "strong" rear leafs is not the issue. No matter what brand truck you buy, the rear leafs (and all OEM shocks) are shot in about 25-35,000 miles. Look at an F150 with OEM rear springs and you'll notice that they almost always ride on the factory overload spring. Factory springs are steel spaghetti, little more (so are the UCAs). Don't waste your money buying cheap, then wishing you bought better, thus spending twice. Buy the best you can afford and cry only once.

Raptor leafs are the same as the regular F150s. If you're going to buy leafs that will rock your world, then buy Deavers or something. Pricey, but with an 11 leaf pack that is guaranteed never to sag, and rides amazingly, they're worth it.

Third, if you're not going to get too serious, you can get away with 2.0 coilovers and shocks. Lot of good brands out there. Fox has a few customer-satisfaction/timing issues (like a 16 week lead time), and Bilsteins are just plain disappointing. I had a set... for about 9,000 miles. I was so glad to get whole new coilovers. Think about it, the Bilsteins use the factory coil springs. That's 50% of your ride quality, and factory springs are junk. (you'll see what I mean if you get a proper set). I have BOSS (Halo) front coilovers, and I just ordered a set of King 2.5 for the rear (I overland/off road with 1200# of camping gear). I get into some serious stuff. Yes, I *only* have a 145" w.b., but it too is a "Queen Mary" on the trails. But I sure love seeing the Jeeper's jaws drop when I come up a trail they just struggled with.

HTH!
Bilstein 5100s are not coilovers, that’s why they use the factory spring. 6112s are the competitor to Fox 2.0 coilovers and iirc they have a better shock and stronger coil than 2.0, albeit reusing stock mounting hardware. From what I hear Fox customer service has been on the questionable side on a few occasions as of late. I misunderstood OP’s question at first, so yes removing all sways is good for trails but I’m not sure what kind of performance can be expected out of a 157” WB. Though on second thought it really isn’t that much longer. Aren’t ICONs supposed to be better than Fox 2.0s? Or is it the other way around?
Old 01-26-2018, 08:42 AM
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The 157"WB trucks are a foot longer than the same truck with the 5.5' bed. The effect of length while offroading is the your breakover angles are a little smaller and you require a bit more room to turn. So, on TIGHT trails it can be a hindrance, but guys have been offroading their supercrew Super Duties that are longer for quite some time now. There is a benefit to the longer wheelbase when going over obstacles that won't contact the bottom of the truck.

All in all, the 157" may require more forethought on some trails than a 145" wheelbase truck, that requires more forethought than a single cab truck with 8' bed, which requires more thought than a Jeep, etc, etc. You won't need to think as far ahead as a Super Duty with 8' bed.

Now go have some fun in your truck.
Old 01-26-2018, 10:01 AM
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If you're going to off road a long wheel base truck, I'd put some serious thought into armor and protection. With being so wide and long, you're going to hit things that something like a Jeep would easily maneuver around. A good set of skids, sliders and steel bumpers would go a long way and also give you a winch mounting location. Handling can be easily cured with new coilovers, rear shocks and springs. I'd plan your build first though, figure out how much weight you'll be adding before biting the bullet on suspension. Last thing you want to do is spend a bunch of money on suspension, then add a 200 lb bumper/winch to the front end and have it be undersprung.
Old 01-26-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by nubbins_
If you are looking to improve handling, get some better shocks for the rear (Fox 2.0, Bilstein 5100) that won't break the bank, and put a Hellwig sway on the rear to reduce body roll. No, I don't think it's too soon for a Titanic analogy lol

It seems that CCLB and ECLB trucks aren't designed to be masters of the trail anyways so I earnestly believe the sway bar will be good for your truck. Dunno why you would want raptor leafs, the stock leafs are pretty strong.

I would get coilovers if you plan on putting more weight on the front end via a bumper. Otherwise decent shocks on the front would do the job for less. whoops forgot to read your sig, I guess if you've got them on all 4 corners and are still unimpressed, then it's time to drop the cash on coilovers
Sorry, by handling like the titanic, I was refering to the large turning radius and the relative eternity it takes to turn this thing. I have driven a number of 145" F150's as well as some Expeditions(Regular and EL) and they all are noticeably more nimble in parking lots.

Originally Posted by STingray1300
First, if you're thinking of taking the "Titanic" on any trails, the last thing you want to do is reduce body roll. I've even taken my front sway bar off. What you want is suspension travel/flex. With a good set of coilovers, the sway bar(s) are just paper weights anyway. They are for street driving/towing.

Second, "strong" rear leafs is not the issue. No matter what brand truck you buy, the rear leafs (and all OEM shocks) are shot in about 25-35,000 miles. Look at an F150 with OEM rear springs and you'll notice that they almost always ride on the factory overload spring. Factory springs are steel spaghetti, little more (so are the UCAs). Don't waste your money buying cheap, then wishing you bought better, thus spending twice. Buy the best you can afford and cry only once.

Raptor leafs are the same as the regular F150s. If you're going to buy leafs that will rock your world, then buy Deavers or something. Pricey, but with an 11 leaf pack that is guaranteed never to sag, and rides amazingly, they're worth it.

Third, if you're not going to get too serious, you can get away with 2.0 coilovers and shocks. Lot of good brands out there. Fox has a few customer-satisfaction/timing issues (like a 16 week lead time), and Bilsteins are just plain disappointing. I had a set... for about 9,000 miles. I was so glad to get whole new coilovers. Think about it, the Bilsteins use the factory coil springs. That's 50% of your ride quality, and factory springs are junk. (you'll see what I mean if you get a proper set). I have BOSS (Halo) front coilovers, and I just ordered a set of King 2.5 for the rear (I overland/off road with 1200# of camping gear). I get into some serious stuff. Yes, I *only* have a 145" w.b., but it too is a "Queen Mary" on the trails. But I sure love seeing the Jeeper's jaws drop when I come up a trail they just struggled with.

HTH!
Yeah, the Bilsteins were to at least get the loaded ride with a trailer better, which they did help enormously with. I didnt jump for coilovers as I wasnt sure I should yet. I am sure they are vastly better but for a mostly road going truck I didnt feel it was worth spending nearly 4x the price on them.

If I go this way I will def go coil-overs in the front and matching shocks in the rear. The Deaver springs were what I was thinking of, I just couldnt remember the name.

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Old 01-26-2018, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mass-hole
Sorry, by handling like the titanic, I was refering to the large turning radius and the relative eternity it takes to turn this thing. I have driven a number of 145" F150's as well as some Expeditions(Regular and EL) and they all are noticeably more nimble in parking lots.



Yeah, the Bilsteins were to at least get the loaded ride with a trailer better, which they did help enormously with. I didnt jump for coilovers as I wasnt sure I should yet. I am sure they are vastly better but for a mostly road going truck I didnt feel it was worth spending nearly 4x the price on them.

If I go this way I will def go coil-overs in the front and matching shocks in the rear. The Deaver springs were what I was thinking of, I just couldnt remember the name.
The turning radius cannot be really changed unfortunately. RCSB have the best turning, 145” are much worse, and 157/163” are even worse. To make it trail ready I reckon you can put a quality winch bumper on the front, a nice unit on the rear, and maybe some rock sliders for that peace of mind.
Old 01-26-2018, 01:33 PM
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As pugga mentioned, protect the "middle" (belly of the beast). I.e., skids are almost required (mine have done their job a few times). I'm working on designing some sliders, but they usually aren't as important as approach and departure angles (bumpers). When we did Imogene Pass a couple of years ago, the trailer connector plate didn't survive. It's still sitting in some creek somewhere at over 10,000ft. That is what motivated me to design ad build the rear bumper, with the hitch receiver ABOVE the bottom of the bumper instead of below it. That will be your "hang up" every time. Then I made a front bumper. Did Steel Pass (Death Valley) last year, and I for sure know that I would have left OEM bumper parts all over it.

All I have is a 2" level and 3/4 lift in the back with the Deaver Raptor +1". I do, however, run 34" tires (on 17s). Look up South Park Trail (Briggs Cabin and Chicken Rock) in Death Valley (Jeep Class IV). When you hear stuff from the Jeepers at the top like "how'd you get THAT thing up HERE???" It's quite fun. And when Rangers tell you, in tandem, that "your truck it too long for that trail, we advise you not going just to get stuck" (Dedekera Canyon), that's a hoot! Don't forget the benefits from a longer wheel base, namely less chance of a roll-over.

This should inspire you:

South Park trail on the way to Chicken Rock-


Mengel Pass, another Class IV-


Engineer Pass, CO
Old 01-26-2018, 01:36 PM
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And here's what I mean about the receiver hitch being above the bottom of the bumper (this gave me 6" more clearance!):


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