Torque Setting?
The torque setting would be the factory. It is more based on the size and style of stud used. Unless you have torqued your wheels from day one, torquing wheels is a good way to have them fall off.
As a stud is over torqued it stretches , once they are stretched the factory torque won't hold the wheel tight. I do tires for a living and after torquing my own wheels and them coming loose in 20 miles(car I bought used) and having a car I work on in the shop have 2 wheels loosen up from torquing them to spec I will never torque a wheel. I don't beat the hell out of them with the impact but I hand torque just isn't enough.
If you are using a 4 way get them snug then tighten them with a good deal of umph. No need to jump on the wrench but you want them fairly tight.
As a stud is over torqued it stretches , once they are stretched the factory torque won't hold the wheel tight. I do tires for a living and after torquing my own wheels and them coming loose in 20 miles(car I bought used) and having a car I work on in the shop have 2 wheels loosen up from torquing them to spec I will never torque a wheel. I don't beat the hell out of them with the impact but I hand torque just isn't enough.
If you are using a 4 way get them snug then tighten them with a good deal of umph. No need to jump on the wrench but you want them fairly tight.
Torque sticks are only correct never. There best bet at being right is with the gun running at 90 psi. I have never seen a shop with less then 100 psi and usually 120 plus.
If 99% of your customers are repeaters and generally come in from day one then you don't run into many that have been excessively over torqued in the past.
If 99% of your customers are repeaters and generally come in from day one then you don't run into many that have been excessively over torqued in the past.

