Wiring a sub / subwoofer and amplifier in 2015 F-150 (no door removal, how-to guide)
#11
My guide intentionally taps into the rear speaker channels as to avoid this. Based on my research, the "fake V8 engine noise" with EcoBoost engines is only piped to the front speaker channels. Splicing your subwoofer leads into the rear means that your sub will only be fed pure, musical signals.
#12
If I use the rear oem sub signal that could isolate the highs out entirely and only the lows would be amplified.
...then...perhaps (IDK this) the built in bass adjustment might work...
I will have to test this. I'll stick the signal wires on a volt meter and see if theres any change when the adjustment is changed.
...then...perhaps (IDK this) the built in bass adjustment might work...
I will have to test this. I'll stick the signal wires on a volt meter and see if theres any change when the adjustment is changed.
#13
Senior Member
Thanks for breaking the ground on this.
Do you think there would be enough room to install two of the Rockfords or the Kickers behind the seats? Don't have my truck yet, so I can't look myself.
Do you think there would be enough room to install two of the Rockfords or the Kickers behind the seats? Don't have my truck yet, so I can't look myself.
#14
As for having two: I doubt it. Those all-in-one units are designed to be the only sub in the car. Wiring up two presents challenges with getting the same signal to each given that the amps are already inbuilt with each, and each expect L/R signs to turn into mono. I suppose you could further splice the signals, but I wouldn't recommend it.
If you have to have two subs, I'd head to a pro install shop and let them handle the measurements and custom box building. You could certainly install two 8" woofers in a custom box behind the seat, but it'd have to be custom to be done right.
#16
Truck Newb
Couple things that may help you out...
You should get rid of those wire splicing things. They'll eventually come loose and your sound signal will start cracking. Just carefully splice the wire and twist the new one around it.
The other thing that will help would be to pull the foam backing off the carpet behind your sub box. It should give you enough room for the box to sit back a little and let your seats work properly again.
You should get rid of those wire splicing things. They'll eventually come loose and your sound signal will start cracking. Just carefully splice the wire and twist the new one around it.
The other thing that will help would be to pull the foam backing off the carpet behind your sub box. It should give you enough room for the box to sit back a little and let your seats work properly again.
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Toddman38 (09-11-2016)
#17
Senior Member
Couple things that may help you out...
You should get rid of those wire splicing things. They'll eventually come loose and your sound signal will start cracking. Just carefully splice the wire and twist the new one around it.
The other thing that will help would be to pull the foam backing off the carpet behind your sub box. It should give you enough room for the box to sit back a little and let your seats work properly again.
You should get rid of those wire splicing things. They'll eventually come loose and your sound signal will start cracking. Just carefully splice the wire and twist the new one around it.
The other thing that will help would be to pull the foam backing off the carpet behind your sub box. It should give you enough room for the box to sit back a little and let your seats work properly again.
Do you, or anyone know that removing that foam will indeed make the seats work properly? I'm curious as I may do this same set up, but can't lose the ability to fold the seat up so I can have room for my dog to have a place to lay on the floor (large lab).
#18
Thank you for the detailed instructions. One quick question...
I have hard time opening the b-pillar and accessing the rear speaker cables. Will I be able to tap the same wires from the front door sill space? I had no problem popping off the door sills front and rear. Thanks.
I have hard time opening the b-pillar and accessing the rear speaker cables. Will I be able to tap the same wires from the front door sill space? I had no problem popping off the door sills front and rear. Thanks.
#19
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Thank you for the detailed instructions. One quick question...
I have hard time opening the b-pillar and accessing the rear speaker cables. Will I be able to tap the same wires from the front door sill space? I had no problem popping off the door sills front and rear. Thanks.
I have hard time opening the b-pillar and accessing the rear speaker cables. Will I be able to tap the same wires from the front door sill space? I had no problem popping off the door sills front and rear. Thanks.
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ponchorage (01-31-2023)
#20
If that's a top priority, I'd opt for the Kicker Hideaway or Rockford PS-8, both of which are only ~3" thick instead of 5.125".