MedicF150

Im trying to get my system together, and Ive never really understood the whole thing with the Ohm's and all that technical stuff.

Can someone try to give a simple explanation as to how that works.

I recall having amps bridged in the past where I have used the L - and the R + of the amp, for one sub..

2010_F150

what kind of subs are you wanting to run?

David F-150

Most of the stuff i learned came from this site http://www.the12volt.com But sometimes their site is kinda slow. But is a real good place to learn ohms law and how to wire in parallel and in series.

98blue54

if your wanting to just get subs go with a mono amp... tell us you sub choice and ohm level and i can probably tell you everything has far as connection

MedicF150

Ok, Here is what the setup is going to look like for now. I currently have it wired using the L+ R- to the one sub.
Also Where should I have the gain and frequency on the amp ??

Head Unit: Stock Ford 6 Disc

Sub: 1 JL Audio 10w3V3-4 Ported Enclosure 500 watt at 4ohm.

Amp: Rockford Fosgate Punch P8002
2-channel car amplifier
200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (400 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
800 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
variable high-pass/low-pass crossover (40-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
variable remote Punch Bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz)

GATORB8

Damn, that's a lot of juice from a Class AB amp. Make sure your amp kit has the ***** to handle the current (fuse and wire size), that amp is onboard fused at 120 amps. You should consider doing the big 3 or 4 with that much current draw.

Start at 80 hz for the low pass xover for the subs, but you'll probably need to go a little higher with the stock mids/highs. You may want to consider some in line high pass xovers for your doors speakers if you stay stock.

Gain will depend on you LOC (you will need one for this amp)

MedicF150

Im running the Kicker high grade 4ga wire with inline fuse.

I defitnetly plan on upgrading the Head Unit as well as the mids/highs, I just cant do it at this time.

What is LOC ?

haha, Im a medic, LOC for me is Level of Conciousness

GATORB8

The kicker kit I'm seeing isn't fused high enough, it's only 100 Amps.

LOC = line output converter - changes the factory stereo's speaker level output to a low level signal that your amp can use.

MedicF150

Thanks Dude !!! As for the 100 AMP fuse. How does that work ?? I guess what I'm trying to say is what are the benefits of running a higher fuse. I'm running a 40 Amp fuse in the inline holder right now. Im going to look into the LOC while I still have the OE headunit.

=GATORB8;584814]The kicker kit I'm seeing isn't fused high enough, it's only 100 Amps.

LOC = line output converter - changes the factory stereo's speaker level output to a low level signal that your amp can use.[/quote]

helotaxi

The higher fuse allows more current to the amp which allows it to make more power without blowing the fuse. Chances are that the 100A fuse will be plenty for normal use. As long as its not an AGU (round glass fuse) or MAXI (really big 2 blade automotive type) fuse holder you can get a 120A fuse for it if you need it. I doubt that you'll need it. I ran a much bigger class a/b system with a 100A system fuse for years. It all depends on your listening habits. At sane listening levels with normal music, the amp isn't going to draw anywhere near its max current because it isn't making anywhere near its max power. Contrast that with listening to really bass heavy rap at obnoxious volume levels and the amp will draw a lot more current since it is being asked to make a lot more power.