speakers pop only when in remote start mode
04-04-2017, 02:39 PM
#1
speakers pop only when in remote start mode
hi all, new here and this is my first question post ever.
i have a 2016 F-150 Supercab XLT 302A group with Sync3 and navi.
i recently swapped out all the door speakers with JL Audio and added a 12" subwoofer that sits in my back seat.
i ran an amp for the new door speakers that i have behind the seats and an amp for the subwoofers connected by a line converter tapping into the stock wiring. i've done this in my last three trucks and never had an issue however with this truck every time the truck is Remote Started if i open the doors while the truck is in the remote start mode the speakers and subwoofer will POP 3 times like a heartbeat.
it will only do it if thwe truck is in remote start mode. if i start the truck and leave it running they work perfectly fine, if i open the doors while the truck is off and start it manually its fine.
i have no idea what is going on, i've tried changing the remote wire and it hasn't fixed it.
and ideas are appreciated!
i have a 2016 F-150 Supercab XLT 302A group with Sync3 and navi.
i recently swapped out all the door speakers with JL Audio and added a 12" subwoofer that sits in my back seat.
i ran an amp for the new door speakers that i have behind the seats and an amp for the subwoofers connected by a line converter tapping into the stock wiring. i've done this in my last three trucks and never had an issue however with this truck every time the truck is Remote Started if i open the doors while the truck is in the remote start mode the speakers and subwoofer will POP 3 times like a heartbeat.
it will only do it if thwe truck is in remote start mode. if i start the truck and leave it running they work perfectly fine, if i open the doors while the truck is off and start it manually its fine.
i have no idea what is going on, i've tried changing the remote wire and it hasn't fixed it.
and ideas are appreciated!
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bryan_c (10-07-2020)
04-04-2017, 09:31 PM
#2
Mine does the same thing, it started after I had a 4ch mini amp installed for the speakers. I never took it back to the shop but I'm pretty sure the noise comes from where they tapped to get power to the amp
11-02-2017, 11:17 AM
#3
Senior Member
Bumping this thread because I've had the same issue with my truck.
I have an aftermarket amp and sub. The amp taps into the speaker wires (high level inputs) and turns on with a remote wire that's tapped into a fuse in the engine compartment (I forget which one).
For those having the same issue, which fuse have you tapped into? I'm planning on switching the remote wire to a fuse in the cab under the glove box (either #23 or #37) to see if that solves the issue.
I have an aftermarket amp and sub. The amp taps into the speaker wires (high level inputs) and turns on with a remote wire that's tapped into a fuse in the engine compartment (I forget which one).
For those having the same issue, which fuse have you tapped into? I'm planning on switching the remote wire to a fuse in the cab under the glove box (either #23 or #37) to see if that solves the issue.
The following users liked this post:
Ricop2007 (11-02-2017)
11-02-2017, 08:43 PM
#4
Bumping this thread because I've had the same issue with my truck.
I have an aftermarket amp and sub. The amp taps into the speaker wires (high level inputs) and turns on with a remote wire that's tapped into a fuse in the engine compartment (I forget which one).
For those having the same issue, which fuse have you tapped into? I'm planning on switching the remote wire to a fuse in the cab under the glove box (either #23 or #37) to see if that solves the issue.
I have an aftermarket amp and sub. The amp taps into the speaker wires (high level inputs) and turns on with a remote wire that's tapped into a fuse in the engine compartment (I forget which one).
For those having the same issue, which fuse have you tapped into? I'm planning on switching the remote wire to a fuse in the cab under the glove box (either #23 or #37) to see if that solves the issue.
11-03-2017, 10:54 AM
#5
Senior Member
So mine is tapped into fuse #113 in the engine compartment fuse box.
That's listed as the circuit for BLIS, rear view camera, front view camera, and voltage quality module and only comes on with ignition.
I've read others tapping into fuse #23 in the inside passenger-side fuse box. That one is listed as for the driver side window, moonroof, driver side window, and more.
When I have time I am going to rewire the remote wire to that circuit (#23) or another circuit (#36) that I currently am using to power an aftermarket front camera and DVR.
That's listed as the circuit for BLIS, rear view camera, front view camera, and voltage quality module and only comes on with ignition.
I've read others tapping into fuse #23 in the inside passenger-side fuse box. That one is listed as for the driver side window, moonroof, driver side window, and more.
When I have time I am going to rewire the remote wire to that circuit (#23) or another circuit (#36) that I currently am using to power an aftermarket front camera and DVR.
Last edited by CJW91; 11-03-2017 at 10:57 AM. Reason: more info
11-03-2017, 11:36 AM
#6
The factory subwoofer signal is only 5V or so. You'll find this connector by the rear driver side door and is referenced in various threads.
Anyway, every time I opened the door and the truck came alive, I'd get a "pop".
I eventually used that 5V signal to control a PAC TR4 remote turn on module and the problem went away.
Ultimately, I installed the PAC dash kit and new head unit and run the remote wire directly from the new stereo.
That being said, I draw my key power from the passenger fuse panel. I have an add-a-circuit on # 36. Be mindful that this is a microfuse, so it takes the smallest of the small add-a-circuits.
Anyway, every time I opened the door and the truck came alive, I'd get a "pop".
I eventually used that 5V signal to control a PAC TR4 remote turn on module and the problem went away.
Ultimately, I installed the PAC dash kit and new head unit and run the remote wire directly from the new stereo.
That being said, I draw my key power from the passenger fuse panel. I have an add-a-circuit on # 36. Be mindful that this is a microfuse, so it takes the smallest of the small add-a-circuits.
11-03-2017, 08:30 PM
#7
The factory subwoofer signal is only 5V or so. You'll find this connector by the rear driver side door and is referenced in various threads.
Anyway, every time I opened the door and the truck came alive, I'd get a "pop".
I eventually used that 5V signal to control a PAC TR4 remote turn on module and the problem went away.
Ultimately, I installed the PAC dash kit and new head unit and run the remote wire directly from the new stereo.
That being said, I draw my key power from the passenger fuse panel. I have an add-a-circuit on # 36. Be mindful that this is a microfuse, so it takes the smallest of the small add-a-circuits.
Anyway, every time I opened the door and the truck came alive, I'd get a "pop".
I eventually used that 5V signal to control a PAC TR4 remote turn on module and the problem went away.
Ultimately, I installed the PAC dash kit and new head unit and run the remote wire directly from the new stereo.
That being said, I draw my key power from the passenger fuse panel. I have an add-a-circuit on # 36. Be mindful that this is a microfuse, so it takes the smallest of the small add-a-circuits.
