ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Are you running the fronts active? If you use a passive crossover you will only need a 2 channel front. The inducers and caps on the passive crossovers will sort out the frequencies for you with only one power input.

SteveY

Right now all I did was replace the stock tweeters and door mids with the new ones. I am not using the external crossovers because the factory amp already has the crossover looked after.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Technically, you really dont need to run your driver and tweeters off separate channels. Unless you have a component set that is meant to run active, I would shy away from that.

What tweeters and drivers do you have?

SteveY

What I am looking for is something that will take the front left tweeter and mid and front right tweeter and mid, real left and rear right channels, sum the front mids/highs together, then after that gets amplified goes to the Polk crossover then to the mid/tweeters.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

All passive crossovers get amplified before the cross overs. Hence the only (1 channel input) for each side.

If you have crossovers you only have 4-channels plus the 2-channel sub= 6 total channels.

The crossovers should have
Tweeter(-, +) output
Driver (-, +) output
Amplified input (-, +). Only one for each side/channel.

Please correct me if I am mis-interpreting what you are saying.

The only way you would need an extra channel (total of 8) would be if you ran active(without the external crossover) and ran the tweeter off its own channel and driver off its own channel. Generally tweeters only handle about 10-15 rms at most. So I don't see why you are need the 8 channel input.

But if you do there is always the JBL MS-8, Alpine PXA-H800, and Audison- Bit one

Guinness68

Bought the Alpine PXE-H660 yesterday. Should be here in a week or so. Woot!

mdraider06

Hello everybody. I'm a newbie to the forum, but this thread has inspired some hope that one of you may be able to shed light on a problem install. A little bit about myself - I am a former car stereo and security installer (Circuit City). I was MECP certified, though I'm sure it has lapsed by now, and relatively good at it (in my own opinion - LOL). I worked from 1999 to 2003, until medical school forced me into "retirement." I've always had fairly high end tastes, and managed to afford it because I had connections in the industry and could do the work myself. Since my career change, the money side has become less of an issue than the time involved. So for my last installation, I paid someone else (for the first time in my life).

It has been a disaster. There are several separate and discrete issues. I could write a novel about it, but frankly I'm not sure if it should go in a new thread. My biggest problem has been with the processor used to integrate the aftermarket amps to the factory system. I have tried some of the pieces discussed and supposedly used by contributors to this thread (JBL MS-8, Audiocontrol LCQ-1), so I though I might start here.

Questions would be:
1.) For those of you who have used a factory integration processor such as the MS-8, PXE-H650/660, Bitone, 3Sixty.2, etc - specifically which inputs have you used (pre-amp or post amp relative to factory sony amp; did you use the center channel as an input)? My installer used the post-Sony amp signal as in input b/c supposedly the amp contributes to processing/distributing the voice of the SYNC system and it would screw it up to use the pre-amp signal??? My experience installing ended well before the advent of the SYNC system so I'm taking his word for it. Is he incorrect?

2.) What signal are you using for "remote wire," or are you using processors (like the LCQ-1) which have a signal-sensing turn-on circuit?

3.) Has anybody used an MS-8 or comparable processor with this system and used it to independently process, generate, and time correct, etc for the center channel?

4.) For anyone using the Audiocontrol devices, specifically an LCQ-1, are you using the signal summing function (internal jumpers), or are you allowing each set of channels to run independently?

That's a start... I have had a nightmare of difficulties with turn-on pops, inability of the JBL to auto-calibrate, lost mid bass, etc... Can give more specifics if needed.

JoeBoost

Sorry to hear. I dont have any experience with the Sony based systems but will share what I know in general. First, have to ask...did you contact JBL?

The JBL will de-equalize the source so any "processing" the Sony amp is doing will be normalized so the DSP can do its own thing. Installing post amp should be fine. You should only need FL/FR and sub high level outs as the JBL will turn those signals into whatever it needs on the output side. Here is where my lack of knowledge of the Sony comes into play as I dont know if it uses the center channel for Sync voice. On the non-Sony it uses just the fronts.

Also, the high level outputs from the amp may have to go on specific inputs on the JBL. I had similar issue with the Bit 1 where I had to have high level source input on its sub channels to get any sub output. It wouldn't sum/reconstruct from channels 1-4 for whatever reason.

Is the JBL throwing any errors when calibrating?

Turn on pops- Typically DSPs need to control all turn-on functions for outboard amps so the factory amp turn on source wire must be cut before the amp, fed to the JBL and then have the JBL turn on the factory amp.

Cant comment on the LCQs as I havent used them.

Hope this helps.

FishX4

I have a question... I'm currently looking to upgrade all my door speakers with pioneers but want to keep my factory head unit in my 2010 fx2 . Already have subs and an amp for bass now it's time to ditch these factory speakers.

1) What's a good processor to use ?
2) don't wanna spend TOO much $
3) where do u guys mount these things ?

lizardking1

1. Alpine PXE-H660
2. Can be had for $200-$250 on Ebay
3. I have mine mounted behind the rear seat ( left side ).