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I have a 2017 Lariat Screw and put int 2 JL Audio 10TW3 Shallow Subs with custom box behind the rear seats. I did not want to lose the floor space under the seats, and needed the seats to stay up and lock without hitting the subs. I had to go fiberglass custom box and trim some foam off the back of the seats, and the seat bars were still *JUST* touching the Subs when the seats were fully up, so I added a couple of protector bars on each side of the subs about 3/8 inch past the sub so the bar on the seat would rest against the sub protector bars. The seats still close and lock with a very small amount of extra push! See attached pics....
Protector Bar with rear seat fully locked and up, with modified seat foam cut out of back of seat, showing a good 3/8 space on speaker. Subwoofer with original headliner cut out (before I added the protection blocks on the sides of each subwoofer.
Looks beautiful. Where did you put the amp and jack?
Really nice work. How do they sound? I got everything ready to go except the FIX 86 (the 2 JL shallows, HD750 mono amp, parrot harness, polk components front and coaxles back and 125 x 4 amp) about to start looking for an installer. Feel like I've been driving around forever gathering and saving to get a system put in. Got my truck in August, had to get the wheels and tires first and that set me back a little.
R/
Travis
i really hope you have a new headunit as well. if you do then skip the rest of this message
it will never cease to amaze me when i see someone installing all sorts of new equipment but they fail to upgrade the most integral piece. you know, the one that actually makes the sound all the amps will reproduce for all the speakers to use, the headunit.
the above quoted part is a great example. there is what, easily $1,000 or more worth of gear listed but the most important piece is not present. it does however contain a piece that will undo what the factory sound profile/tuning is - make it flat, sum the channels, add time alignment, a 10 band eq and have high pass filters on 4 of 6 channels. all of that and a lot more could be accomplished with an aftermarket headunit, easily, and you would not have to start with a signal already processed before you being processing it again.
i'm becoming an old curmudgeon when it comes to car audio i have enough old, spare gear to outfit 3-5 vehicles right now (dependent on how crazy of a system you wanted to go) and every vehicle i own has a quality system, including the bike. i've bought and sold so much gear over the years i couldn't even begin to recall every brand and model i've had.
trust me when i say that the first purchase should always be a headunit. it's the source. everything else is built upon it. even with absolutely nothing else changed your car/truck will "sound better" to you as an aftermarket unit, even the most basic one out there, will have more output than a stock unit and a flat response right out of the box that you can tune as you want and within the unit's abilities.
i realize that at times it isn't possible due to design (i had a jag i couldn't remove the headunit from) or age (truck so new nothing available yet) or people like the stock look so things like the fix have their place. if at all possible though always go with the headunit first.
ok, rant over. rough day at work, hope i didn't **** anyone off with my post. but consider what i said if you read this
i really hope you have a new headunit as well. if you do then skip the rest of this message
it will never cease to amaze me when i see someone installing all sorts of new equipment but they fail to upgrade the most integral piece. you know, the one that actually makes the sound all the amps will reproduce for all the speakers to use, the headunit.
the above quoted part is a great example. there is what, easily $1,000 or more worth of gear listed but the most important piece is not present. it does however contain a piece that will undo what the factory sound profile/tuning is - make it flat, sum the channels, add time alignment, a 10 band eq and have high pass filters on 4 of 6 channels. all of that and a lot more could be accomplished with an aftermarket headunit, easily, and you would not have to start with a signal already processed before you being processing it again.
i'm becoming an old curmudgeon when it comes to car audio i have enough old, spare gear to outfit 3-5 vehicles right now (dependent on how crazy of a system you wanted to go) and every vehicle i own has a quality system, including the bike. i've bought and sold so much gear over the years i couldn't even begin to recall every brand and model i've had.
trust me when i say that the first purchase should always be a headunit. it's the source. everything else is built upon it. even with absolutely nothing else changed your car/truck will "sound better" to you as an aftermarket unit, even the most basic one out there, will have more output than a stock unit and a flat response right out of the box that you can tune as you want and within the unit's abilities.
i realize that at times it isn't possible due to design (i had a jag i couldn't remove the headunit from) or age (truck so new nothing available yet) or people like the stock look so things like the fix have their place. if at all possible though always go with the headunit first.
ok, rant over. rough day at work, hope i didn't **** anyone off with my post. but consider what i said if you read this
Law of diminishing returns bud. The only head unit that can replace the stock Sony nav unit is more than what it cost for me to sound deadening the entire truck, swap all the speakers, add two 12"subs with box, 1200 watt amp, wireing and buy a new optima yellowtop battery. You are correct in that the head unit is typically first upgrade, but that is more important if you have a single or double din easy to replace unit then something that has to integrate with climate controls.
nineball, that's what I'm hoping the FIX 86 does. I actually want to keep the head unit with the NAV and stuff. I have the basic 6 speaker stereo (I guess 7) w/out Sony.
nineball, that's what I'm hoping the FIX 86 does. I actually want to keep the head unit with the NAV and stuff. I have the basic 6 speaker stereo (I guess 7) w/out Sony.
R/
Travis
Do you still need the Fix86? if so I might have an extra if you are looking for one, brand new! lmk
Unless there has been a change...... the LMI kit only relocates the bottom cushion forward and up, the seatback stays where it is. FWIW, with the lift I was able to get three 10" Alpine Type-R's under the rear seat.
Are the 3 10's ported or sealed? I have 2 in a fox box and they slam, but I think I want some more assertiveness.
Unless there has been a change...... the LMI kit only relocates the bottom cushion forward and up, the seatback stays where it is. FWIW, with the lift I was able to get three 10" Alpine Type-R's under the rear seat.
with my lift kit it move everything up.. there were replacement brackets to move the seat latches up as well
12-20-2017, 05:29 PM
