Neckbone

I'm running a small 4 channel amp to new Polk door speakers and a powered sub (Kicker Hideaway). I installed the subwoofer first with no issues and worked great. I used the speaker level inputs and tapped into the rear speakers for the turn on signal. Now that I installed my amp and new door speakers, the sub won't turn on. It won't even light up. This tells me it's not even getting power. I checked the fuses and they're good. Would the amplifier screw up the turn on signal? When the rain stops, I'm gonna go check voltage at the amp connector with my meter.

My other issue are the front doors. Getting the panels on and off was easy, but now my doors won't latch shut unless I close the doors and keep it pressed shut. If I do a normal close they'll bounce open. What the hell did I do?

Neckbone

I hooked up the Kicker Hideaway sub via switched 12V instead of signal sensing. Everything works.

As for the doors, I took it to a dealership's on site quick lube place (service wasn't open). We pulled the panels, and the tech jiggered with the inside part of the door handle and got it all working again. He said there's a little tab that's suppose to reset itself and it wasn't. He said it somehow got stuck in the up position and wouldn't release back down. They didn't charge me anything. Shout out to Mullinax Ford Quick Lane Service in New Smyrna Beach FL for the pro-bono help.

bgrd351

The speaker level input most likely stopped working because you most likely ran new wires from your new amp to the new speakers.

I say most likely because I dont know what you changed.

Neckbone

I didn't run new wires to the rear speakers. Factory wires to the rears and the front crossovers. The only new wires ran were from the crossovers to the front speakers and tweeters. Maybe that changed the DC Offset.

Tallyman89

Tap a fuse and run a remote turn on wire to see if that makes a difference. On my 2014, I used fuse 38.