Opinions/advise of my audio build
06-12-2019, 12:57 PM
#1
Opinions/advise of my audio build
2016 F-150 XLT Screw - I'm about to pull the trigger on my audio upgrade. Tell me what you think and what changes you would make.
Factory Head Unit
AMP/DSP - Audio Control D-6.1200
Front Speaker - 6.5 Kicker Q series components (ran active)
Rear Speaker - 6.5 Kicker KS coaxial (powered by radio)
Sub - Kicker CompRT 10" (mounted behind the rear seat)
LMI 1520 SA - Moves the seat forward 2-3 inches (must retain seats ability to fold up)
O AWG power/ground kit. Using 0 gauge because the future is unknown)
Second skin damplifier pro, luxury liner pro to the doors and rear wall (already purchased).
I am open to different configuration of components but will most likely stick with audio control and kicker brand for this build due to discounts available to me.
Do anyone think a Kicker CompRT 12" sub would fit behind the seat with LMI 1520 SA kit installed. The sub depth is 7" at the bottom and 3 1/2" at the top.
I am thinking of doing a build tread of the install. What do you think?
Factory Head Unit
AMP/DSP - Audio Control D-6.1200
Front Speaker - 6.5 Kicker Q series components (ran active)
Rear Speaker - 6.5 Kicker KS coaxial (powered by radio)
Sub - Kicker CompRT 10" (mounted behind the rear seat)
LMI 1520 SA - Moves the seat forward 2-3 inches (must retain seats ability to fold up)
O AWG power/ground kit. Using 0 gauge because the future is unknown)
Second skin damplifier pro, luxury liner pro to the doors and rear wall (already purchased).
I am open to different configuration of components but will most likely stick with audio control and kicker brand for this build due to discounts available to me.
Do anyone think a Kicker CompRT 12" sub would fit behind the seat with LMI 1520 SA kit installed. The sub depth is 7" at the bottom and 3 1/2" at the top.
I am thinking of doing a build tread of the install. What do you think?
06-12-2019, 02:09 PM
#2
looks good but don't run rear speakers that are not part of your dsp. it will kill your sound stage. if you are dead set on running rear speakers then grab a separate amp for your subs and use channels 5 and 6 for your rear fill. you don't need to time align the sub.
The following users liked this post:
woodall01 (06-12-2019)
06-12-2019, 04:16 PM
#3
2016 F-150 XLT Screw - I'm about to pull the trigger on my audio upgrade. Tell me what you think and what changes you would make.
Factory Head Unit
AMP/DSP - Audio Control D-6.1200
Front Speaker - 6.5 Kicker Q series components (ran active)
Rear Speaker - 6.5 Kicker KS coaxial (powered by radio)
Sub - Kicker CompRT 10" (mounted behind the rear seat)
LMI 1520 SA - Moves the seat forward 2-3 inches (must retain seats ability to fold up)
O AWG power/ground kit. Using 0 gauge because the future is unknown)
Second skin damplifier pro, luxury liner pro to the doors and rear wall (already purchased).
I am open to different configuration of components but will most likely stick with audio control and kicker brand for this build due to discounts available to me.
Do anyone think a Kicker CompRT 12" sub would fit behind the seat with LMI 1520 SA kit installed. The sub depth is 7" at the bottom and 3 1/2" at the top.
I am thinking of doing a build tread of the install. What do you think?
Factory Head Unit
AMP/DSP - Audio Control D-6.1200
Front Speaker - 6.5 Kicker Q series components (ran active)
Rear Speaker - 6.5 Kicker KS coaxial (powered by radio)
Sub - Kicker CompRT 10" (mounted behind the rear seat)
LMI 1520 SA - Moves the seat forward 2-3 inches (must retain seats ability to fold up)
O AWG power/ground kit. Using 0 gauge because the future is unknown)
Second skin damplifier pro, luxury liner pro to the doors and rear wall (already purchased).
I am open to different configuration of components but will most likely stick with audio control and kicker brand for this build due to discounts available to me.
Do anyone think a Kicker CompRT 12" sub would fit behind the seat with LMI 1520 SA kit installed. The sub depth is 7" at the bottom and 3 1/2" at the top.
I am thinking of doing a build tread of the install. What do you think?
If you are going to put the amp behind the rear seat, I would also strongly recommend this as well.
https://www.builtrightind.com/produc...r-seat-release
On the LMI Kit, at 2" setting you have 9" at the bottom, 7 in the middle (indent), 5" near the top, and 3 at the very top. But the short answer is yes. The seats still fold up as long as you use the supplied spacer. The only issue that I ran in to is the seatbelt sometimes sides back behind the seat.
Also, if you want a deal of the LMI kit check out my buy/sell post. I took my kit because I ended up putting an 8" sub under the seat. I have photos of the measurements if you needed them.
Last edited by woodall01; 06-12-2019 at 04:22 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by woodall01:
F150-Driver (06-13-2019),
FreeMars (11-23-2020)
06-12-2019, 07:22 PM
#4
Senior Member
I think you can get quality 0 gauge for the same price as 2 these days. The key is to buy a quality cable from someone like knukonceptz (others can chime in with their opinions) because there are some "0/1" gauge cables out there that would barely hold up to a 4 gauge load.
I A) Wouldn't bother replacing the rear speakers at all and B) run those off the D-6.1200. Use the built in DSP to tune them to a low level for fill purposes only. You don't need to buy new rear speakers. In fact if you went with a quality active 3-way up front you could ditch the rear speakers entirely...but that is a more advanced topic and possibly more work then you want to put in.
Doing the doors and rear walls for dampening is a good idea, though you probably don't need to bother with the rear doors. Also if you want to reduce road noise even further a cheap&easy mod is to reinforce the door seals with some surgical tubing. This video
shows how - it's for a F-250, and years old, but still gets the idea across. I did it on my truck and it cuts out a good bit of road/tire noise at highway speeds if you do the front driver/passenger doors. And costs like $20.
I A) Wouldn't bother replacing the rear speakers at all and B) run those off the D-6.1200. Use the built in DSP to tune them to a low level for fill purposes only. You don't need to buy new rear speakers. In fact if you went with a quality active 3-way up front you could ditch the rear speakers entirely...but that is a more advanced topic and possibly more work then you want to put in.
Doing the doors and rear walls for dampening is a good idea, though you probably don't need to bother with the rear doors. Also if you want to reduce road noise even further a cheap&easy mod is to reinforce the door seals with some surgical tubing. This video
shows how - it's for a F-250, and years old, but still gets the idea across. I did it on my truck and it cuts out a good bit of road/tire noise at highway speeds if you do the front driver/passenger doors. And costs like $20.
The following 2 users liked this post by planetix:
F150-Driver (06-15-2019),
FreeMars (11-23-2020)
06-12-2019, 07:25 PM
#5
I think you can get quality 0 gauge for the same price as 2 these days. The key is to buy a quality cable from someone like knukonceptz (others can chime in with their opinions) because there are some "0/1" gauge cables out there that would barely hold up to a 4 gauge load.
I A) Wouldn't bother replacing the rear speakers at all and B) run those off the D-6.1200. Use the built in DSP to tune them to a low level for fill purposes only. You don't need to buy new rear speakers. In fact if you went with a quality active 3-way up front you could ditch the rear speakers entirely...but that is a more advanced topic and possibly more work then you want to put in.
Doing the doors and rear walls for dampening is a good idea, though you probably don't need to bother with the rear doors. Also if you want to reduce road noise even further a cheap&easy mod is to reinforce the door seals with some surgical tubing. This video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XR-J7VTN80
shows how - it's for a F-250, and years old, but still gets the idea across. I did it on my truck and it cuts out a good bit of road/tire noise at highway speeds if you do the front driver/passenger doors. And costs like $20.
I A) Wouldn't bother replacing the rear speakers at all and B) run those off the D-6.1200. Use the built in DSP to tune them to a low level for fill purposes only. You don't need to buy new rear speakers. In fact if you went with a quality active 3-way up front you could ditch the rear speakers entirely...but that is a more advanced topic and possibly more work then you want to put in.
Doing the doors and rear walls for dampening is a good idea, though you probably don't need to bother with the rear doors. Also if you want to reduce road noise even further a cheap&easy mod is to reinforce the door seals with some surgical tubing. This video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XR-J7VTN80
shows how - it's for a F-250, and years old, but still gets the idea across. I did it on my truck and it cuts out a good bit of road/tire noise at highway speeds if you do the front driver/passenger doors. And costs like $20.
I used ewcs welding cable. more copper stand count them most car audio wire of the same gauge. https://ewcswire.com/
06-13-2019, 06:52 PM
#6
If you are going to put the amp behind the rear seat, I would also strongly recommend this as well.
https://www.builtrightind.com/produc...r-seat-release
On the LMI Kit, at 2" setting you have 9" at the bottom, 7 in the middle (indent), 5" near the top, and 3 at the very top. But the short answer is yes. The seats still fold up as long as you use the supplied spacer. The only issue that I ran in to is the seatbelt sometimes sides back behind the seat.
Also, if you want a deal of the LMI kit check out my buy/sell post. I took my kit because I ended up putting an 8" sub under the seat. I have photos of the measurements if you needed them.
https://www.builtrightind.com/produc...r-seat-release
On the LMI Kit, at 2" setting you have 9" at the bottom, 7 in the middle (indent), 5" near the top, and 3 at the very top. But the short answer is yes. The seats still fold up as long as you use the supplied spacer. The only issue that I ran in to is the seatbelt sometimes sides back behind the seat.
Also, if you want a deal of the LMI kit check out my buy/sell post. I took my kit because I ended up putting an 8" sub under the seat. I have photos of the measurements if you needed them.
I think you can get quality 0 gauge for the same price as 2 these days. The key is to buy a quality cable from someone like knukonceptz (others can chime in with their opinions) because there are some "0/1" gauge cables out there that would barely hold up to a 4 gauge load.
I A) Wouldn't bother replacing the rear speakers at all and B) run those off the D-6.1200. Use the built in DSP to tune them to a low level for fill purposes only. You don't need to buy new rear speakers. In fact if you went with a quality active 3-way up front you could ditch the rear speakers entirely...but that is a more advanced topic and possibly more work then you want to put in.
Doing the doors and rear walls for dampening is a good idea, though you probably don't need to bother with the rear doors. Also if you want to reduce road noise even further a cheap&easy mod is to reinforce the door seals with some surgical tubing. This video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XR-J7VTN80
shows how - it's for a F-250, and years old, but still gets the idea across. I did it on my truck and it cuts out a good bit of road/tire noise at highway speeds if you do the front driver/passenger doors. And costs like $20.
I A) Wouldn't bother replacing the rear speakers at all and B) run those off the D-6.1200. Use the built in DSP to tune them to a low level for fill purposes only. You don't need to buy new rear speakers. In fact if you went with a quality active 3-way up front you could ditch the rear speakers entirely...but that is a more advanced topic and possibly more work then you want to put in.
Doing the doors and rear walls for dampening is a good idea, though you probably don't need to bother with the rear doors. Also if you want to reduce road noise even further a cheap&easy mod is to reinforce the door seals with some surgical tubing. This video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XR-J7VTN80
shows how - it's for a F-250, and years old, but still gets the idea across. I did it on my truck and it cuts out a good bit of road/tire noise at highway speeds if you do the front driver/passenger doors. And costs like $20.
06-13-2019, 07:00 PM
#7
Rear fill question
With the front stage components running active through a DSP how will it sound in the rear without speakers? Since I'm tapping the front channels as input to the DSP my plan was to set a proper sound stage up front and just fade the sound to the front in the HU. I'll keep the rear speaker power from the factory head unit and on the rare occasion I have passengers in the rear I can just fade back to the middle to put sound in the rear seats. Is this a good plan or should I skip the rears altogether?
Another option is to run all speakers to through the DSP and use a separate amp for the sub. The D-6.1200 has 4 programmable memory tunes and with the ACR-3 remote it is easy to switch between tunes. The idea is one tune for Driver only, another one for Driver and passenger and a third for a truck full of passengers.
Another option is to run all speakers to through the DSP and use a separate amp for the sub. The D-6.1200 has 4 programmable memory tunes and with the ACR-3 remote it is easy to switch between tunes. The idea is one tune for Driver only, another one for Driver and passenger and a third for a truck full of passengers.
Last edited by F150-Driver; 06-13-2019 at 07:07 PM. Reason: grammar
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06-13-2019, 07:08 PM
#8
"Subs don't need time align" Thanks for the TIP!
I have added the rear seat release to list of parts, thanks for the tip! I'll send you a PM about LMI kit any savings is good in my book. I'm still on the fence about the sub. 10" or 12" It sounds like the 12 will fit but the question is will the seat still lock in the folded position while giving the sub space for excursion.
Good tip! Bonus right now is knukonceptz is running a sale on B-Stock wires on amazon and their website.
I have added the rear seat release to list of parts, thanks for the tip! I'll send you a PM about LMI kit any savings is good in my book. I'm still on the fence about the sub. 10" or 12" It sounds like the 12 will fit but the question is will the seat still lock in the folded position while giving the sub space for excursion.
Good tip! Bonus right now is knukonceptz is running a sale on B-Stock wires on amazon and their website.
06-13-2019, 07:17 PM
#9
With the front stage components running active through a DSP how will it sound in the rear without speakers? Since I'm tapping the front channels as input to the DSP my plan was to set a proper sound stage up front and just fade the sound to the front in the HU. I'll keep the rear speaker power from the factory head unit and on the rare occasion I have passengers in the rear I can just fade back to the middle to put sound in the rear seats. Is this a good plan or should I skip the rears altogether?
Another option is to run all speakers to through the DSP and use a separate amp for the sub. The D-6.1200 has 4 programmable memory tunes and with the ACR-3 remote it is easy to switch between tunes. The idea is one tune for Driver only, another one for Driver and passenger and a third for a truck full of passengers.
Another option is to run all speakers to through the DSP and use a separate amp for the sub. The D-6.1200 has 4 programmable memory tunes and with the ACR-3 remote it is easy to switch between tunes. The idea is one tune for Driver only, another one for Driver and passenger and a third for a truck full of passengers.