new amp with original HU
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new amp with original HU
HI
I add on my new truck an amp and kept the original HU.
F150 2011, ecoboost, crewcab, box 6.5 foot
I read many post in this forum to give me a hint on how to proceed.
First I tried to fit the amplifier behind the back seat, The space was too tight, and I did not want to cut the carpet cause the truck have 6 months
I look everywhere in the truck and I found the perfect place for it …. : Under the passenger seat!
Before I add the new amp, I replace the original speaker, in front Clarion SRQ1621S (component) 6” speaker and SRQ6831C 6 x 8 on back, the amp that I choose was a Clarion XR2410 to add more punch in the cab.
To fix the amp I add aluminum strip between the steel bars.
And fix the amp upside down, control on the front for easy access, and wiring (power, speaker) in back. The space around the amp is good, under … around ¾ “ and on top more of 1 1/4 “
The place where I screw the aluminum strip moves with the seat, the reason is that I have more room between the amp and the carpet. I kept slack of speaker wire, ground wire and power (+12V) wire over the amp, if I need to move the seat and do maintenance.
For the ground I used 2 cables ( 2 X 8 AWG), one on each side of the seat, I sand the place, put some grease (lightly) and screwed them with mechanical screw, not metal screw. The lugs are crimp, soldered and I put shrink tube with glue.
When I replaced the seat, I put anti-seize grease on the treads of each bolt. I wanted to be sure that the ground was perfect. Many strange problems comes from ground not from the power.
I ran the speaker and power cables, under the central console, and pass the wire under the carpet.
The over cabling is over the amp, I put split loom over the power cable. Looks nice.
The size of speaker wire: 16 awg, power 6 awg. I plugged the power cable under the hood, in the main terminal of the fuse box,more space, easier. (I not forgot the fuse)
The power cable is not super flexible, I put the lug on both sides of the cable, soldering it and shrink tube with glue plus light film of grease on the terminal.
I did not found +12V (switching) behind the radio (HU). In many posts, people is telling, to use fuse 38 on the kick panel for the switching voltage. I found the fuse easily, but I did not want to put some gadget to tap the voltage at the place of the fuse. I removed the fuse panel , and tried to find witch wire is linked with the fuse. I found it.
The plug is in the bottom at the right, the first pin, top left, and the color of the wire: grey/blue (light grey, looks white but not white). I tap the remote wire on it, nice job, working well.
When I tap the remote wire on the wire of the fuse 38, I just removed rubber coating, soldering the tap wire and put over a rubber tape, to seal the connection of the humidity and put regular electric tape over. VOILA!
If my post can help somebody
I add on my new truck an amp and kept the original HU.
F150 2011, ecoboost, crewcab, box 6.5 foot
I read many post in this forum to give me a hint on how to proceed.
First I tried to fit the amplifier behind the back seat, The space was too tight, and I did not want to cut the carpet cause the truck have 6 months
I look everywhere in the truck and I found the perfect place for it …. : Under the passenger seat!
Before I add the new amp, I replace the original speaker, in front Clarion SRQ1621S (component) 6” speaker and SRQ6831C 6 x 8 on back, the amp that I choose was a Clarion XR2410 to add more punch in the cab.
To fix the amp I add aluminum strip between the steel bars.
And fix the amp upside down, control on the front for easy access, and wiring (power, speaker) in back. The space around the amp is good, under … around ¾ “ and on top more of 1 1/4 “
The place where I screw the aluminum strip moves with the seat, the reason is that I have more room between the amp and the carpet. I kept slack of speaker wire, ground wire and power (+12V) wire over the amp, if I need to move the seat and do maintenance.
For the ground I used 2 cables ( 2 X 8 AWG), one on each side of the seat, I sand the place, put some grease (lightly) and screwed them with mechanical screw, not metal screw. The lugs are crimp, soldered and I put shrink tube with glue.
When I replaced the seat, I put anti-seize grease on the treads of each bolt. I wanted to be sure that the ground was perfect. Many strange problems comes from ground not from the power.
I ran the speaker and power cables, under the central console, and pass the wire under the carpet.
The over cabling is over the amp, I put split loom over the power cable. Looks nice.
The size of speaker wire: 16 awg, power 6 awg. I plugged the power cable under the hood, in the main terminal of the fuse box,more space, easier. (I not forgot the fuse)
The power cable is not super flexible, I put the lug on both sides of the cable, soldering it and shrink tube with glue plus light film of grease on the terminal.
I did not found +12V (switching) behind the radio (HU). In many posts, people is telling, to use fuse 38 on the kick panel for the switching voltage. I found the fuse easily, but I did not want to put some gadget to tap the voltage at the place of the fuse. I removed the fuse panel , and tried to find witch wire is linked with the fuse. I found it.
The plug is in the bottom at the right, the first pin, top left, and the color of the wire: grey/blue (light grey, looks white but not white). I tap the remote wire on it, nice job, working well.
When I tap the remote wire on the wire of the fuse 38, I just removed rubber coating, soldering the tap wire and put over a rubber tape, to seal the connection of the humidity and put regular electric tape over. VOILA!
If my post can help somebody
Last edited by christianf150; 10-15-2011 at 11:41 AM.
#2
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#3
Very nice job there christianf150! I wish I had thought to find the wire that fed switched 12V to fuse #38 during my sub/amp install. Instead I ended up picking it up at the ignition wire, which was purple with a red tracer.