Looking at This Audio build
06-03-2018, 05:34 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Looking at This Audio build
I have a 2018 STX 6 speaker system.
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/v...nt=17690910721
what is the difference between 2 and 4ohm?
https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...ucts/rp-350-1d
Sub amp, 2ohms RMS @ 250watts
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tx69
Front speakers
https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...roducts/tws-01
Tweeters
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/lp-80-4abv2
Speaker Amp
Or could i run this amp to power both front speakers and the sub?
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-150-4ab
I am liking this Skar brand as the price is pretty awesome and I have found pretty much all good reviews. Im not looking to build a professional set up just something middle level that I myself can enjoy.
If I run the 4 channel amp for the sub and front speakers total is about $337 with free shipping and then I would just have to find a down firing box for the 10" sub.
Any opinions are welcome as well what other additional materials yall would recommend such as RCA cables.
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/v...nt=17690910721
what is the difference between 2 and 4ohm?
https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...ucts/rp-350-1d
Sub amp, 2ohms RMS @ 250watts
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tx69
Front speakers
https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...roducts/tws-01
Tweeters
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/lp-80-4abv2
Speaker Amp
Or could i run this amp to power both front speakers and the sub?
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-150-4ab
I am liking this Skar brand as the price is pretty awesome and I have found pretty much all good reviews. Im not looking to build a professional set up just something middle level that I myself can enjoy.
If I run the 4 channel amp for the sub and front speakers total is about $337 with free shipping and then I would just have to find a down firing box for the 10" sub.
Any opinions are welcome as well what other additional materials yall would recommend such as RCA cables.
Last edited by xcremente; 06-03-2018 at 05:39 PM.
06-03-2018, 07:15 PM
#2
Senior Member
For the subwoofer, you want dual 2ohm. Then you wire the voice coils in parallel for a final 1ohm load. Ohms is the resistance of the subwoofer.
That mono sub amplifier puts out 350 watts @1ohm. That's why you want the dual 2ohm subwoofer, so you can create a 1ohm load and get the maximum power out of that amplifier.
You can't use the Rp-150.4AB to power your entire system. Somehow you need to crossover those tweeters with a high pass filter. With the LP-80.4ABv2, you can put the 6x9's on two channels and then the tweeters on the other two channels using the amplifiers built in high pass crossover. Then the mono sub amp for the subwoofer.
A better suggestion would be this amplifier RP-600.5 It provides 60x4 @4ohms + 400x1@1ohm. Those 6x9's are rated at 120watts RMS for the pair (60x2) and those tweeters at 80watts RMS for the pair (40x2)... so 60x4 is all you need. Using the amplifiers built in crossovers, put the 6x9's on ch1/2 with a HPF of 80hz, put the tweeters on ch3/4 with a HPF of at least 2000hz (I would do 2500hz), and put the sub on ch5 with a LPF of 80hz.
I am assuming that you will be running the 6x9's in the doors and the tweeters in the stock locations.
EDIT: I see those tweeters come with a cheap passive crossover. You could wire the 6x9's and tweeters to the same channel and in two ohm stereo on a 4 channel amp then bridge the other two channels to a D2 sub with the voice coils wired in series (4ohm mono load)... problem with that is you can't attenuate the tweeters and you may get some severely high/harsh music. Might overheat the amplifier too if the resistance drops too low. 5 channel amplifier is the better option.
That mono sub amplifier puts out 350 watts @1ohm. That's why you want the dual 2ohm subwoofer, so you can create a 1ohm load and get the maximum power out of that amplifier.
You can't use the Rp-150.4AB to power your entire system. Somehow you need to crossover those tweeters with a high pass filter. With the LP-80.4ABv2, you can put the 6x9's on two channels and then the tweeters on the other two channels using the amplifiers built in high pass crossover. Then the mono sub amp for the subwoofer.
A better suggestion would be this amplifier RP-600.5 It provides 60x4 @4ohms + 400x1@1ohm. Those 6x9's are rated at 120watts RMS for the pair (60x2) and those tweeters at 80watts RMS for the pair (40x2)... so 60x4 is all you need. Using the amplifiers built in crossovers, put the 6x9's on ch1/2 with a HPF of 80hz, put the tweeters on ch3/4 with a HPF of at least 2000hz (I would do 2500hz), and put the sub on ch5 with a LPF of 80hz.
I am assuming that you will be running the 6x9's in the doors and the tweeters in the stock locations.
EDIT: I see those tweeters come with a cheap passive crossover. You could wire the 6x9's and tweeters to the same channel and in two ohm stereo on a 4 channel amp then bridge the other two channels to a D2 sub with the voice coils wired in series (4ohm mono load)... problem with that is you can't attenuate the tweeters and you may get some severely high/harsh music. Might overheat the amplifier too if the resistance drops too low. 5 channel amplifier is the better option.
Last edited by Kanadian-kaos; 06-03-2018 at 07:24 PM.
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supercanadian (06-03-2018)
06-04-2018, 01:12 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
For the subwoofer, you want dual 2ohm. Then you wire the voice coils in parallel for a final 1ohm load. Ohms is the resistance of the subwoofer.
That mono sub amplifier puts out 350 watts @1ohm. That's why you want the dual 2ohm subwoofer, so you can create a 1ohm load and get the maximum power out of that amplifier.
You can't use the Rp-150.4AB to power your entire system. Somehow you need to crossover those tweeters with a high pass filter. With the LP-80.4ABv2, you can put the 6x9's on two channels and then the tweeters on the other two channels using the amplifiers built in high pass crossover. Then the mono sub amp for the subwoofer.
A better suggestion would be this amplifier RP-600.5 It provides 60x4 @4ohms + 400x1@1ohm. Those 6x9's are rated at 120watts RMS for the pair (60x2) and those tweeters at 80watts RMS for the pair (40x2)... so 60x4 is all you need. Using the amplifiers built in crossovers, put the 6x9's on ch1/2 with a HPF of 80hz, put the tweeters on ch3/4 with a HPF of at least 2000hz (I would do 2500hz), and put the sub on ch5 with a LPF of 80hz.
I am assuming that you will be running the 6x9's in the doors and the tweeters in the stock locations.
EDIT: I see those tweeters come with a cheap passive crossover. You could wire the 6x9's and tweeters to the same channel and in two ohm stereo on a 4 channel amp then bridge the other two channels to a D2 sub with the voice coils wired in series (4ohm mono load)... problem with that is you can't attenuate the tweeters and you may get some severely high/harsh music. Might overheat the amplifier too if the resistance drops too low. 5 channel amplifier is the better option.
That mono sub amplifier puts out 350 watts @1ohm. That's why you want the dual 2ohm subwoofer, so you can create a 1ohm load and get the maximum power out of that amplifier.
You can't use the Rp-150.4AB to power your entire system. Somehow you need to crossover those tweeters with a high pass filter. With the LP-80.4ABv2, you can put the 6x9's on two channels and then the tweeters on the other two channels using the amplifiers built in high pass crossover. Then the mono sub amp for the subwoofer.
A better suggestion would be this amplifier RP-600.5 It provides 60x4 @4ohms + 400x1@1ohm. Those 6x9's are rated at 120watts RMS for the pair (60x2) and those tweeters at 80watts RMS for the pair (40x2)... so 60x4 is all you need. Using the amplifiers built in crossovers, put the 6x9's on ch1/2 with a HPF of 80hz, put the tweeters on ch3/4 with a HPF of at least 2000hz (I would do 2500hz), and put the sub on ch5 with a LPF of 80hz.
I am assuming that you will be running the 6x9's in the doors and the tweeters in the stock locations.
EDIT: I see those tweeters come with a cheap passive crossover. You could wire the 6x9's and tweeters to the same channel and in two ohm stereo on a 4 channel amp then bridge the other two channels to a D2 sub with the voice coils wired in series (4ohm mono load)... problem with that is you can't attenuate the tweeters and you may get some severely high/harsh music. Might overheat the amplifier too if the resistance drops too low. 5 channel amplifier is the better option.
So you are saying it would sound better in the end if i just ran the 4 channel for the tweeters and front speakers and then ran a separate mono amp for the sub?
06-04-2018, 04:43 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Update, going a different route for speakers. I have always done Kenwoods in all the vehicles and trucks I have owned in the past and always enjoyed them. So I went with these for the front door speakers:
And these for my tweeters:
I will install these first and then see how they sound before deciding on an amp.
Also I read that the tweeters with stock wiring are already wired on their own channels so I dont have to worry about crossovers, correct?
And these for my tweeters:
I will install these first and then see how they sound before deciding on an amp.
Also I read that the tweeters with stock wiring are already wired on their own channels so I dont have to worry about crossovers, correct?
06-05-2018, 03:53 PM
#5
Update, going a different route for speakers. I have always done Kenwoods in all the vehicles and trucks I have owned in the past and always enjoyed them. So I went with these for the front door speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And these for my tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will install these first and then see how they sound before deciding on an amp.
Also I read that the tweeters with stock wiring are already wired on their own channels so I dont have to worry about crossovers, correct?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And these for my tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will install these first and then see how they sound before deciding on an amp.
Also I read that the tweeters with stock wiring are already wired on their own channels so I dont have to worry about crossovers, correct?
5 Way speakers are a gimmick. 2 way is best especially if yo plan on still using the tweeters. If you plan on replacing the factory tweeters get some that will fit in the existing mounts or nothing at all. I would replace the door speakers and leave the factory tweeters hooked up
06-05-2018, 04:38 PM
#6
I don't agree with Wyo11Scab regarding the speakers. I've listened to a lot of speakers side by side and can tell you speakers all serve a purpose depending on the application, some are better than others for specific vehicles. The same 2-way in one vehicle will sound much different in another hence the reason why 2, 3, 5-way speakers have been created. In our F150, the 2 and 3 ways didn't hold a candle compared to the 5 way I'm using. Yinger ended up buying the same speakers I'm using after listening to mine. He originally spent more than double on his front speakers and then swapped them out with the same ones I'm using because they sounded that much better. To make a bold claim such as them being a gimmick without actually having listened to them is a bit unfounded. I'm fortunate to have a lot of speakers and builds around to hear them in different applications. Since I bought my F150 I was really testing out a lot of speakers/sub combos to see what worked the best. I highly doubt anyone on this forum has tried as many speaker/sub combos that I have on an F150 aside from another audio shop.
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06-06-2018, 02:37 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
I don't agree with Wyo11Scab regarding the speakers. I've listened to a lot of speakers side by side and can tell you speakers all serve a purpose depending on the application, some are better than others for specific vehicles. The same 2-way in one vehicle will sound much different in another hence the reason why 2, 3, 5-way speakers have been created. In our F150, the 2 and 3 ways didn't hold a candle compared to the 5 way I'm using. Yinger ended up buying the same speakers I'm using after listening to mine. He originally spent more than double on his front speakers and then swapped them out with the same ones I'm using because they sounded that much better. To make a bold claim such as them being a gimmick without actually having listened to them is a bit unfounded. I'm fortunate to have a lot of speakers and builds around to hear them in different applications. Since I bought my F150 I was really testing out a lot of speakers/sub combos to see what worked the best. I highly doubt anyone on this forum has tried as many speaker/sub combos that I have on an F150 aside from another audio shop.
I agree, I enjoy the sound of 5way speakers especially if I am keeping things simple. And i'm going to return the tweeters and I also purchase the Kicker HS8 which I will be following the no door panel removal install. However I have read some people say not to tap into the rear speakers but to tap into the fronts instead to get more of a bass signal. Is there any truth to this as I feel like more people have installed this hideaway with the rear speaker tap in vs the fronts. Im going to see if I can install this under my drivers seat as I have a STX and there is literally nothing under there and I have plenty of space under there I would imagine.
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06-06-2018, 02:41 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thought about JL Audio? I'm running JL C3 Verts....front are separated with the tweeter in the pillars and back are attached. JL amp running them with a sound processor...amazing. Fox Box for two 10's under rear seat...couldn't be happier.