Head unit Measurments for Forscan Changes and High level vs Low Level
#21
You will need to do one of the following, and these are in order of what I would do.
1) get a pac amp pro to interface with the sony stuff. By far the easiest and best solution
2) use forscan to eliminate the sony stuff, link in my signature on how to do this. I don't recommend doing this. It is a pain and has it's own set of issues.
3) tap after the sony amp and just live with it.
You can't tap before the sony amp without forscan changes due to how it interfaces and talks to the sony amp. You won't be able to change volume or anything.
1) get a pac amp pro to interface with the sony stuff. By far the easiest and best solution
2) use forscan to eliminate the sony stuff, link in my signature on how to do this. I don't recommend doing this. It is a pain and has it's own set of issues.
3) tap after the sony amp and just live with it.
You can't tap before the sony amp without forscan changes due to how it interfaces and talks to the sony amp. You won't be able to change volume or anything.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You can't tap before the sony amp without forscan changes due to how it interfaces and talks to the sony amp. You won't be able to change volume or anything.
The HU literally just sends a straight signal to the sony amp. A different set of wires controls everything else (volume, fade, etc). This can be changed with forscan, but it does require that if you are going that route.
There is nothing to gain by doing this compared to a pac amp pro. The pac amp pro is way easier, works better, and solves a lot of other issues (chimes, nav sounds, etc) that isn't easy to deal with the forscan route. Well worth the cost.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 04-01-2021 at 12:32 PM.
#23
As said above.
You can't tap before the sony amp without forscan changes due to how it interfaces and talks to the sony amp. You won't be able to change volume or anything.
The HU literally just sends a straight signal to the sony amp. A different set of wires controls everything else (volume, fade, etc). This can be changed with forscan, but it does require that if you are going that route.
There is nothing to gain by doing this compared to a pac amp pro. The pac amp pro is way easier, works better, and solves a lot of other issues (chimes, nav sounds, etc) that isn't easy to deal with the forscan route. Well worth the cost.
You can't tap before the sony amp without forscan changes due to how it interfaces and talks to the sony amp. You won't be able to change volume or anything.
The HU literally just sends a straight signal to the sony amp. A different set of wires controls everything else (volume, fade, etc). This can be changed with forscan, but it does require that if you are going that route.
There is nothing to gain by doing this compared to a pac amp pro. The pac amp pro is way easier, works better, and solves a lot of other issues (chimes, nav sounds, etc) that isn't easy to deal with the forscan route. Well worth the cost.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I understand so the volume control goes through sony amp pretty much. So I could do simple route by using a audiocontrol lc2i after sony amp for only sub amp since it has bass roll off correction? Can I use it for mids and highs amp too or no since its the sub wires and will be a low frequency of 100hz or lower? Same as door speakers i cant use audiocontrol lc2i from them for sub amp because its cut off around 80hz and only gives me higher freq?
If you really don't want to, tap the front speaker wires for all amps and run through your lc2i (that is a antiquated device these days) and power all your amps and use the amps crossovers to control what frequencies get sent where.
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you haven't purchased anything, get a Dayton DSP 408
or
Kickey key smart loc -> Kickey key 200.4 amp for front speakers and a kicker key 500.1 for sub (if you have a 1 ohm sub)
or
Kickey key smart loc -> Kickey key 200.4 amp for front speakers and a kicker key 500.1 for sub (if you have a 1 ohm sub)
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 04-01-2021 at 12:47 PM.
#27
If you are changing all speakers out and amping all speakers. Buy the pac amp pro.
If you really don't want to, tap the front speaker wires for all amps and run through your lc2i (that is a antiquated device these days) and power all your amps and use the amps crossovers to control what frequencies get sent where.
If you really don't want to, tap the front speaker wires for all amps and run through your lc2i (that is a antiquated device these days) and power all your amps and use the amps crossovers to control what frequencies get sent where.
I'm not new to audio but this crap sony system is BS
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am not 100% sure to be honest. I never measured the sony and don't suggest anyone does what you are trying to do. I really only suggest the pac amp pro after going through and dealing with all of the forscan issues. I would never recommend just tapping the wires of a factory system without some sort of interface to clean up the signal. The audiocontrol stuff is not that. They are dumb devices. There are too many smart devices out there that are the same price.
#29
I am not 100% sure to be honest. I never measured the sony and don't suggest anyone does what you are trying to do. I really only suggest the pac amp pro after going through and dealing with all of the forscan issues. I would never recommend just tapping the wires of a factory system without some sort of interface to clean up the signal. The audiocontrol stuff is not that. They are dumb devices. There are too many smart devices out there that are the same price.
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The kicker key 500.1 and a sub that is capable of 500w at 1ohm would be 100x better option. The 500.1 looks at the incoming signal and flattens and fixes any issues.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647K...7KEY500-1.html
Or the kicker smart loc to amp of your choice. The smart loc does the same as the 500.1 amp above without the amp part.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647K...Converter.html