kustomkaraudio

The truck is a 2016. We did a JL Fix and Twk, Arc Amps, Focal highpass speakers and JL TW3 subs ( 2- 10" )


I knew that bigger,wire was needed in the doors for the midrange, so this I what I came up with.


The doors of these trucks come off REALLY easy. A 10mm in the bottom of the top hinge , a 10mm in the top of the bottom hinge and a 10mm for the limit strap, un plug the molex door connector, a few extra hands to guide it off, Not even 10 minutes...

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Why not use the same hole as the connectors? Maybe I am missing something??

kustomkaraudio

There was a ton of stock wires populating the pins, I didn't want to mess with drilling the connector. I'm not saying it cant be done, just wanted to go a different route

88RedLX

Maybe I've been out of the game too long, but 25+ years ago this was done when there was no room for more wire in the existing boot. Not sure if I'd call this "different", but perhaps everything is cyclical.

freddyttt

I added this to my 2014 XLT while switching out my speakers and did not upgrade my wires... zero issues. https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pow.../dp/B005KVEPVO

boom50cal

same here, just tied into the factory harness behind the radio. Up to a certain power level its okay.
If you're trying to bring mid range and tweeters into the door with an active setup, it's really the only need to bring new wires into the door. Generally speaking, mids in the doors with tweeters(and fullranges if you want) up on the pillars or on the dash is going to sound the best.

TexasFording

iTrader: (14)

Question for you, did the truck retain the normal cluster sounds/beeps through the speakers after you upgraded? I lost mine when I upgraded.
Can you please PM me your email address? Would very much appreciate your help.

Thanks