HushCarAudio

Hello All,
I've decided to share with you my ultimate budget build. I'm shooting myself in the foot here since I'm a vendor and sell this stuff but thought I'd do better for the community than be money hungry. After much thought and consideration, I've pieced together what I feel is an awesome system that would rival some of the most expensive builds out there. I'm sure there will be a ton of flaming and lots of doubt regarding this post but I'm willing to go to bat for this build. I'm also down to challenge people if they want to compare my system to theirs locally. Progress is still underway but I'll be adding content as I get along with my build. I do run a couple of businesses so progress might be on the slow side so bear with me. I'll be updating this post periodically as thing progress but hopefully, this gives people ideas of what possible for not that much in costs. I'll be adding photos as well so please hang tight as this post builds along. I'll be happy to answer questions should you have any. I'll look forward to all comments good, bad, and indifferent.
Regards,
Bruce

Truck:
2018 Ford F150 2.7 Ecoboost with 8" screen and 6 speakers

Door Speakers:
1- Fronts $67.47 - 2- Rears $47.75 (tweeters in stock location up front) -
Sub:
1- Pioneer Shallow 10" $89.11 - 2- Skar Audio VD12 $79.99 - https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...nt=17690911873
3 - JL Audio 10W7 $749.99 - http://www.jlaudio.com/10w7ae-3-car-...-drivers-92114

Amplifiers:
1- Skar Audio for door speakers $119.99 - https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...ucts/sk-m4004d
2- Skar Audio for sub $139.99 - https://www.skaraudio.com/collection...s/lp-1000-1dv2

Wiring Kit:
1- Built my own amp kit $30
2- Speaker wire to RCAs $7.99 x 2 - 3 - RCA cables $10.99 x 2 -
Sound Deadening Kit for Front Doors:
My own kit - feel free to order from me so I can feed my 3 kids hahaha. Vibration dampener and MLV $75. Custom door covers $40
1- Vibration dampener - 4 sheets
2- Mass loaded vinyl with closed cell foam - 1 large sheet
3- Custom ABS plastic .25" thickness door covers - 2 covers right/left with rivet nuts/bolts or 1 sheet of vibration dampener for the application.

Forscan Tool:
$30 -

HushCarAudio

Here are some install photos.


OEM speaker wires that needed to be cut. I didn't like that harness people were buying due to the $50 cost and fact that the wires were messed up with incorrect labeling.


Here are the speaker wire to RCA connectors I used to plug into my RCAs. I didn't take a photo of what they looked like afterward. I make certain to use a lot of electrical tape so nothing gets disconnected when installing everything back behind the head unit.


Running speaker and signal lines down the driver's side. Power/ground was run down the passenger's side.


Lots of wires to my test amps. The JL Audio TwK was going to be used but I kept it uninstalled first to see how my speakers did not tuned first.


I always recommend using relays for multiple ignition (remote) power wires. In my case for the two amps and TwK. I used tape here but will clean it up later with shrink tubing.


My approach to sound deadening is certainly not conventional. I try to use as little material as possible while achieving the maximum results within reason. My method saves a lot of money and works just as well as many full 100% coverage methods. I use products from Second Skin Audio. What's shown here is their Luxury Liner Pro and Damplifier Pro. I glued the LLP to the door skin which also helps to reduce vibrations over the large surface. I then support it with DP.

HushCarAudio

Drilled a pilot hole prior to the larger sized bit. I used a piece of tape first when drilling so that the bit didn't walk on me.


I love playing with tools and this is my rivet nut tool.


Rivet nut installed. Now ready for my custom door covers.


I secured the door covers with 1/4 20 bolts. Between the cover and door skin is a layer of butyl tape so that the material sticks airtight and provides some vibration dampening.


Comparison between stock front speakers and new ones.


I tore out all the guts from the OEM speaker and mounted the new speakers in the stock basket. I was able to retain using the OEM clips. I sandwiched the new speaker in the basket with more butyl rope to complete the perfect seal.

HushCarAudio

Reserved 4

Kanadian-kaos

That is going to be a lot of tweeter in the front (door and a pillars)... might have trouble there.

Why do you have three different subs listed? Are you going to use your truck to demo all three?

Where did you get a roll of MLV for $70? ... dang hard to find in Canada, and shipping from the USA is too expensive since the roll weighs 100lbs.

Yinger

I actually went with the same Pioneer 5 way after hearing Hush Audio's setup in person. Originally, I went with polk audio db652 components for the front, but swapped out just the woofers. At first, i thought it would create too much highs having so many tweeters, but using the JL TWK 88, i dialed everything in and have to say that those pioneers sound amazing. The vocals on music sound much clearer and gave my system a more full dynamic range. I still use the polk audio 2 way in the rears.

HushCarAudio

After listening to how the staging is in the truck I knew that the top location tweeter wasn't enough for a full sound. Using my combo of speakers up front makes it sound amazing.
As for the subs, yes I'm testing them all to see the results. I figured I'd share with the group so that you'll at least having someone telling you my experience first hand and with back to back tests.
For the sound deadening stuff, I'm selling a kit here shortly to the group if interested. I meant to say one sheet, not whole roll. I'll update my post. Here is the link to the MLV that I use. http://store.secondskinaudio.com/lux...t-24x54-9sqft/

Delta1166

"I tore out all the guts from the OEM speaker and mounted the new speakers in the stock basket. I was able to retain using the OEM clips. I sandwiched the new speaker in the basket with more butyl rope to complete the perfect seal."


Just curious why you gutted the factory speaker? Wouldn't the Pioneers fit into existing opening in door sheet metal? Are there any clearance issues between the speaker grille & the door trim panel afterwards? Final question please, did you reuse the stock speaker wire harness?
Thx! Keep up the great work on this thread.

nineball

thanks for making me spit my coffee all over my monitors how could anyone, let alone a vendor, make a thread titled "budget build" and list budget equipment, then make the statement above? that's like a porsche or ferrari salesman saying "i am buying this ford fusion but it will rival that porsche or ferrari".



i have around $1200 total in my system with all the equipment bought used save the wiring and cld, and i would be more than happy to let you "challenge" me. no clue where you are since you have no location posted and no location on your site but i am in n.e. ohio, so feel free to swing by anytime you like. the system consists of dynaudio md102 ($200 for the pair), mw162 ($200 for the pair), pdxv9 ($250), jbl gto804 x 2 ($80 each), spercrewsounds box under the rear bench of my scab ($125). heck, i'd even put a little friendly wager down if you were so inclined.



that should be one hell of a large sheet to do the cab of an f150 from just one as both of these need 100% coverage to be effective...



good luck!

HushCarAudio

The factory basket was larger than the Pioneer so it required I either use an adapter or I reuse the OEM basket. OEM is a better fit and cheaper. I used a Dremel tool to shave down where the mounting tabs were on the new speakers so they'd sit flush with the OEM baskets. Because of this, there were zero fitment or clearance issues. Lastly, yes I used the stock speaker wires and harness.